viven44 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Yes, it does show that it goes to manifold vacuum. And if it is almost instantaneous in dropping the vacuum then I don't understand how nor why it works. As for the emissions book, if it is the Engine Emissions/Diagnosis book then we have the 82 and 86 versions on the site. I'd welcome another, but if you scan it please do so at 600 dpi if you can. I run an optical character recognition program against the files so people can search for text and 600 dpi makes that work best. Wow, I didn't realize you already had high resolution scans of all, just noticed the link below has all the components already in it, including VREST!! https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/emissions-related-components.html As far as its functionality goes, I believe all VREST is intended to do is smooth out the vacuum advance signal to the distributor on a cold engine. 'Big Blue 2WD' is quite good but I've had vehicles that the vacuum was so bouncy at idle up to 5" swing that the VREST would be needed, else the distributor timing may be bouncing around as well at a higher rate than it would ever with just throttle response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Wow, I didn't realize you already had high resolution scans of all, just noticed the link below has all the components already in it, including VREST!! https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/emissions-related-components.html As far as its functionality goes, I believe all VREST is intended to do is smooth out the vacuum advance signal to the distributor on a cold engine. 'Big Blue 2WD' is quite good but I've had vehicles that the vacuum was so bouncy at idle up to 5" swing that the VREST would be needed, else the distributor timing may be bouncing around as well at a higher rate than it would ever with just throttle response. Completed the timing chain/water pump install View with the old chain off Comparing the old and new cam sprocket, the old one had a protrusion to where a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric can be installed properly. I could not reuse the old eccentric as-is because the outer ring would not spin freely since the new cam sprocket has a flat surface. A new 1 piece fuel pump eccentric is ridiculously expensive unless you went with a Chinese one which I didn't want to and also the dowel pins needed changing out etc.. Just adds complexity for something I have Zero plans to use. So this will be a strictly electric only 460. I will stamp "ONLY ELECTRIC" on the fuel pump blocking cover. New chain installed dot to dot-keyway. Cam sprocket retaining bolt torqued to 45 ft lbs. Pic below shown without the oil slinger. I saw somewhere random that the oil slinger didn't need to be installed for double rollers and they were only meant for nylon gears, but I installed it anyway. A nice tip I got from the factory manual is to install the counterweight before torquing the timing cover bolts any. This will ensure proper centering inside the front seal. I have observed front seal leaks on Bullnose 460s. They sell a sleeve kit to fix that but i'm hoping I won't need it. I gave the water pump a coat of engine primer. I've been told a painted water pump adds roughly 50hp http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif But really, I am tired of looking at water pumps with surface rust. Other notes -- only 3 bolts truly need thread sealant, 1 long bolt that goes through the water port, one long bolt that goes into the intake manifold and one small water pump bolt that goes into the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 Completed the timing chain/water pump install View with the old chain off Comparing the old and new cam sprocket, the old one had a protrusion to where a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric can be installed properly. I could not reuse the old eccentric as-is because the outer ring would not spin freely since the new cam sprocket has a flat surface. A new 1 piece fuel pump eccentric is ridiculously expensive unless you went with a Chinese one which I didn't want to and also the dowel pins needed changing out etc.. Just adds complexity for something I have Zero plans to use. So this will be a strictly electric only 460. I will stamp "ONLY ELECTRIC" on the fuel pump blocking cover. New chain installed dot to dot-keyway. Cam sprocket retaining bolt torqued to 45 ft lbs. Pic below shown without the oil slinger. I saw somewhere random that the oil slinger didn't need to be installed for double rollers and they were only meant for nylon gears, but I installed it anyway. A nice tip I got from the factory manual is to install the counterweight before torquing the timing cover bolts any. This will ensure proper centering inside the front seal. I have observed front seal leaks on Bullnose 460s. They sell a sleeve kit to fix that but i'm hoping I won't need it. I gave the water pump a coat of engine primer. I've been told a painted water pump adds roughly 50hp But really, I am tired of looking at water pumps with surface rust. Other notes -- only 3 bolts truly need thread sealant, 1 long bolt that goes through the water port, one long bolt that goes into the intake manifold and one small water pump bolt that goes into the timing cover. Yes, there's a lot of documentation on the site, and some of it I've not fully read. And much of it I don't remember. So I'm not surprised that we have the info on VREST buried somewhere. But I have a large stack of to-be-scanned documents, so I'm sure there will be more I'm not au fait with. Anyway, you are making good progress. You'll have that thing ready to go in very soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 Yes, there's a lot of documentation on the site, and some of it I've not fully read. And much of it I don't remember. So I'm not surprised that we have the info on VREST buried somewhere. But I have a large stack of to-be-scanned documents, so I'm sure there will be more I'm not au fait with. Anyway, you are making good progress. You'll have that thing ready to go in very soon. Thanks !! Still a long way to go. Key things to be still worked out 1) Exhaust — it’s a relatively low budget build (no plans to sell whatsoever but i'd rather invest heavily in the interiors at this point) so my plan is to just piece together an exhaust.. can’t fire up until exhaust is in place. I’ve done open manifold before and my neighbors probably don’t approve of that !! If I can find a factory Y pipe for a 78 Bronco for a 460 that would work but unfortunately that doesn’t exist. In fact I can’t find a Y pipe for a 460 for a bullnose truck. It will just be a single exhaust. Just want it to sound normal. Nothing outrageous. 2) Fuel pump. The plan was always electric, but after today mechanical is no longer possible. I better really deliver on the electric pump !!  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Thanks !! Still a long way to go. Key things to be still worked out 1) Exhaust — it’s a relatively low budget build (no plans to sell whatsoever but i'd rather invest heavily in the interiors at this point) so my plan is to just piece together an exhaust.. can’t fire up until exhaust is in place. I’ve done open manifold before and my neighbors probably don’t approve of that !! If I can find a factory Y pipe for a 78 Bronco for a 460 that would work but unfortunately that doesn’t exist. In fact I can’t find a Y pipe for a 460 for a bullnose truck. It will just be a single exhaust. Just want it to sound normal. Nothing outrageous. 2) Fuel pump. The plan was always electric, but after today mechanical is no longer possible. I better really deliver on the electric pump !! The 450 had a very nice Y-pipe, but it used EFI exhaust manifolds, and they put the cone joints in a different place (or* my truck would be wearing it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 The 450 had a very nice Y-pipe, but it used EFI exhaust manifolds, and they put the cone joints in a different place (or* my truck would be wearing it) It has been a challenge to find 460 Y pipes... I've looked for them for a while. At this point I'm planning to do custom 2-1/4 exhausts that run to a muffler, and then a single 3" exhaust pipe... The other tempting option is to buy a full dual exhaust kit for a 78 Bronco from LMC for a 400, and just modify where it meets the manifolds. A bit more expensive but tempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 It has been a challenge to find 460 Y pipes... I've looked for them for a while. At this point I'm planning to do custom 2-1/4 exhausts that run to a muffler, and then a single 3" exhaust pipe... The other tempting option is to buy a full dual exhaust kit for a 78 Bronco from LMC for a 400, and just modify where it meets the manifolds. A bit more expensive but tempting. I did a head pipe flange-back with a giant school bus muffler and a $35 closeout Magnaflow 3" stainless, universal, pickup tailpipe. It's been pretty good for a dozen years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 I did a head pipe flange-back with a giant school bus muffler and a $35 closeout Magnaflow 3" stainless, universal, pickup tailpipe. It's been pretty good for a dozen years. I am planning to do a flange connection before the muffler to facilitate easy exhaust removal. (If the oil pan ever has to be dropped) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Completed the timing chain/water pump install View with the old chain off Comparing the old and new cam sprocket, the old one had a protrusion to where a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric can be installed properly. I could not reuse the old eccentric as-is because the outer ring would not spin freely since the new cam sprocket has a flat surface. A new 1 piece fuel pump eccentric is ridiculously expensive unless you went with a Chinese one which I didn't want to and also the dowel pins needed changing out etc.. Just adds complexity for something I have Zero plans to use. So this will be a strictly electric only 460. I will stamp "ONLY ELECTRIC" on the fuel pump blocking cover. New chain installed dot to dot-keyway. Cam sprocket retaining bolt torqued to 45 ft lbs. Pic below shown without the oil slinger. I saw somewhere random that the oil slinger didn't need to be installed for double rollers and they were only meant for nylon gears, but I installed it anyway. A nice tip I got from the factory manual is to install the counterweight before torquing the timing cover bolts any. This will ensure proper centering inside the front seal. I have observed front seal leaks on Bullnose 460s. They sell a sleeve kit to fix that but i'm hoping I won't need it. I gave the water pump a coat of engine primer. I've been told a painted water pump adds roughly 50hp But really, I am tired of looking at water pumps with surface rust. Other notes -- only 3 bolts truly need thread sealant, 1 long bolt that goes through the water port, one long bolt that goes into the intake manifold and one small water pump bolt that goes into the timing cover. That's a very nice install! I'm trying to understand what's different between the 9-1122 that I used to use (which fit my pump eccentric fine) and the set you've used. I could see the C-3207 not having provision, given that it's a chain for EFI trucks, but the top gears look the same to me. Maybe the photos I find online are "representative" and not real? This circles back to Gary's AI discussion, where nothing is to be believed.... I see you've found a hose barb for your water pump. Does this mean you can use an automotive alternator bracket and adjuster in the 70's Bronco frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 It has been a challenge to find 460 Y pipes... I've looked for them for a while. At this point I'm planning to do custom 2-1/4 exhausts that run to a muffler, and then a single 3" exhaust pipe... The other tempting option is to buy a full dual exhaust kit for a 78 Bronco from LMC for a 400, and just modify where it meets the manifolds. A bit more expensive but tempting. You just described my 1986 factory system. The only changes have been, changed front pipes to set from a 1990 to match the heads and manifolds, replace the extension pipes (168" wheelbase) with a set to connect from the catalyst inlet flange (no cat) to the muffler inlet. Tailpipe screens were deleted in 1994. Darth still has his factory muffler and tailpipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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