viven44 Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I'm not sure you want to do that in your neighborhood. I wore my 3M Workmate headphones to block out the noise and every once in a while I touched the headphones to the platform while I was hitting it with the tool. The noise was amazingly LOUD! Those needles are hitting at 4800 times per minute, or 80 times per second. It was loud enough on that platform, but if you were to hit sheetmetal I think you'd wake up the dead! OK that is good to know!! I won't be using it then. Will stick to my wire wheel. Doing all the stuff I do in my neighborhood has been a problem for a while for my poor neighbors. I don't want to push my luck anymore than I already have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 Like I said, the sem-matte hasn't been a thing in over 3 decades. I'm glad the needle scaler is helping for you! How did you live without one??? I don't know how I've lived w/o one, especially since I used to do stick welding. It worked really nicely on the hard to reach places today, but on the slag from stick welding it would have been wonderful! Told my brother about it and sent him a link to the post with the pics since he was interested as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I'm not sure you want to do that in your neighborhood. I wore my 3M Workmate headphones to block out the noise and every once in a while I touched the headphones to the platform while I was hitting it with the tool. The noise was amazingly LOUD! Those needles are hitting at 4800 times per minute, or 80 times per second. It was loud enough on that platform, but if you were to hit sheetmetal I think you'd wake up the dead! You need to be careful with anything thin enough to bend. It's like tapping something into a form. One or two blows with a tiny hammer do nothing, When you have a couple dozen little hammers x 4,800 bpm things move in a real hurry! Nothing better for getting into corners or exposing a corroded faster though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 You need to be careful with anything thin enough to bend. It's like tapping something into a form. One or two blows with a tiny hammer do nothing, When you have a couple dozen little hammers x 4,800 bpm things move in a real hurry! Nothing better for getting into corners or exposing a corroded faster though. Right. In fact the most effective way to use it is to have the part where it cannot move, like on a work table and you are aiming down. If you aim sideways the part will move with the blows and it isn't as effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 Right. In fact the most effective way to use it is to have the part where it cannot move, like on a work table and you are aiming down. If you aim sideways the part will move with the blows and it isn't as effective. Checked the platform over and the paint looks good, so I put the legs back on it. Then I started looking for material with which to make the spacers for the rear of the legs. Found some tapered cast iron pieces I don't know what are and realized that after making them flat they'd be about right. So I put one in the mill and took the taper off of one side. Flipped it over and made the other side flat. Marked for 1 1/4" circles and drilled a 3/8" hole in two place. Cut the two pieces out, rounded their corners, chucked them in the lathe using a 3/8" bolt as the mandrel, turned them down to 1.25", pulled the bolt and chucked them back in the lathe on their OD, drilled them to .391" to fit the metric bolt for the floor, and painted them. A few pics of that process follow, but immediately after that I discovered a puddle of water on the floor of the shop, right next to the water heater. A little sleuthing determined it was from the 15 year old water heater. And, I discovered there was no shutoff valve! So I make a trip the hardware story and bought a ball valve, close, and cap. Back at the house turned the water off, drained the water heater, installed the ball valve/close/cap in its place, and turned the water back on. NO LEAKS! Now I'm looking at point of use/tankless water heaters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Checked the platform over and the paint looks good, so I put the legs back on it. Then I started looking for material with which to make the spacers for the rear of the legs. Found some tapered cast iron pieces I don't know what are and realized that after making them flat they'd be about right. So I put one in the mill and took the taper off of one side. Flipped it over and made the other side flat. Marked for 1 1/4" circles and drilled a 3/8" hole in two place. Cut the two pieces out, rounded their corners, chucked them in the lathe using a 3/8" bolt as the mandrel, turned them down to 1.25", pulled the bolt and chucked them back in the lathe on their OD, drilled them to .391" to fit the metric bolt for the floor, and painted them. A few pics of that process follow, but immediately after that I discovered a puddle of water on the floor of the shop, right next to the water heater. A little sleuthing determined it was from the 15 year old water heater. And, I discovered there was no shutoff valve! So I make a trip the hardware story and bought a ball valve, close, and cap. Back at the house turned the water off, drained the water heater, installed the ball valve/close/cap in its place, and turned the water back on. NO LEAKS! Now I'm looking at point of use/tankless water heaters. Wow those are some serious spacers/bushings. Probably better than OEM ! And yes, Tankless water heaters FTW! Just need air intake and exhaust vents and a condensate drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Wow those are some serious spacers/bushings. Probably better than OEM ! And yes, Tankless water heaters FTW! Just need air intake and exhaust vents and a condensate drain. Yes, they are serious. But they'll do the same thing as stacking 8 washers and won't look nearly as dorky. Like maybe even something Ford would have done, although Ford wouldn't have painted them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Yes, they are serious. But they'll do the same thing as stacking 8 washers and won't look nearly as dorky. Like maybe even something Ford would have done, although Ford wouldn't have painted them. Yes painting that is an extra manufacturing step adding cycle time and cost, share holders wouldn't be happy about that move Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Yes painting that is an extra manufacturing step adding cycle time and cost, share holders wouldn't be happy about that move Powder coating! (If it's worth doing, it's worth OVER doing! 😆) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Yes, they are serious. But they'll do the same thing as stacking 8 washers and won't look nearly as dorky. Like maybe even something Ford would have done, although Ford wouldn't have painted them. How hard is your water there in skiatook? If it's bad you're going to be descaling that thing every 3 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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