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Big Blue's Bucket Seats


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Wonder if a body-mount type bushing would help, vibrations and such.

A bushing in place of the washers? Maybe, but I really don't have vibrations.

I can imagine some type of dense poly bushing like a sway bar and link or even a "compressor foot" bushing from a residential heat pump compressor. either would be black and might add a "little" shock /vibration reduction. essentially like using black bumpers the same as on the seat base itself. but if you don't mind a hexagon look. get two 5/8-11 hex nuts and voila. spacers. Possibly the exact thickness that you want.

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I can imagine some type of dense poly bushing like a sway bar and link or even a "compressor foot" bushing from a residential heat pump compressor. either would be black and might add a "little" shock /vibration reduction. essentially like using black bumpers the same as on the seat base itself. but if you don't mind a hexagon look. get two 5/8-11 hex nuts and voila. spacers. Possibly the exact thickness that you want.

As I think about it I don't believe I really want to introduce flex into the equation. That would mean that some point in the "legs", the part that bolts to the floor, might eventually work-harden and crack. That would probably be where the folded part of the leg flattens and is bent to attach to the floor at front, and I'd bet having that movement concentrated right there would cause it to break eventually.

Instead I'd rather the foam of the seats be the part that gives. So I plan to make spacers of some kind. I'll have to see what I have in stock that can be used for that.

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As I think about it I don't believe I really want to introduce flex into the equation. That would mean that some point in the "legs", the part that bolts to the floor, might eventually work-harden and crack. That would probably be where the folded part of the leg flattens and is bent to attach to the floor at front, and I'd bet having that movement concentrated right there would cause it to break eventually.

Instead I'd rather the foam of the seats be the part that gives. So I plan to make spacers of some kind. I'll have to see what I have in stock that can be used for that.

The type of vibrations I was referring to is the kind from exhaust (Sound) and engine. I had a truck that had the exhaust solid-welded into the frame and that was 'bad'. The seats were like massaging-chairs and the most I could ride in that truck was about 30 minutes before I was in a trance :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I'm sure Big Blue has been engineered well to dampen any vibrations. The factory seats don't use any bushings so its probably not needed. Look forward to seeing what you make on the lathe.

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The type of vibrations I was referring to is the kind from exhaust (Sound) and engine. I had a truck that had the exhaust solid-welded into the frame and that was 'bad'. The seats were like massaging-chairs and the most I could ride in that truck was about 30 minutes before I was in a trance :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I'm sure Big Blue has been engineered well to dampen any vibrations. The factory seats don't use any bushings so its probably not needed. Look forward to seeing what you make on the lathe.

Big Blue's exhaust system was done by a professional and has the proper hangers and clearance to the frame. So no vibrations like that come into the cab.

As for what I did today, I made a trip to Harbor Freight and the local hardware store. And I found out why HF can offer that needle scaler for such a cheap price - there's not one in any store in the US. So I moved up to the $40 one, but along the way I discovered a that they are discontinuing a 3" cutter and have a nice die grinder for a decent price, so they followed me hoe=me. And in the hardware store I found the self-etching primer and satin black paint. (They had flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. No matte.)

Todays_Haul_-_Tools__Paint.jpg.4a24434f89f6783bc6a3ef69133a5751.jpg

So I came home and used the needle scaler. Yippee! As you can see in the before and after pics at the bottom it works. It isn't perfect, but FAR better than any other way I've found. Thanks, Jim. :nabble_smiley_good: (But, unfortunately it didn't improve the welds nor the look thereof.)

And then I put the platform in the paint booth, blew it off with compressed air, and then washed it down with brake cleaner. After letting it dry for a few minutes I made sure it was dry by using a heat gun on it, and then put on "about" three coats of primer, which was one full can. I say "about" because there are so many sides to this thing that it is hard to remember where you've been, but suffice to say that it is well and truly coated. Tomorrow I plan to give it several coats of the satin black and then let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Platform_Primered.thumb.jpg.039c3666337fcdfa236cbd66c6b08701.jpg

Joint_Before.jpg.ccf532c657583b2652575ff0f7ae7191.jpgJoint_After.jpg.25a2dd07acfde2911938224c9422f0fb.jpg

Joint_2_Before.jpg.846b9a1598a4bf1cce72591357436a89.jpgJoint_2_After.jpg.92147fbaf662a127e0a449ce6bb3e84a.jpg

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So I came home and used the needle scaler. Yippee! As you can see in the before and after pics at the bottom it works. It isn't perfect, but FAR better than any other way I've found. Thanks, Jim.

Clean job, looks good!

:nabble_anim_claps:

Thanks, Jeff. I think it is going to work out well, and it'll be far less visible than before when there were several different colors peeking out at you from under the new seats.

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Big Blue's exhaust system was done by a professional and has the proper hangers and clearance to the frame. So no vibrations like that come into the cab.

As for what I did today, I made a trip to Harbor Freight and the local hardware store. And I found out why HF can offer that needle scaler for such a cheap price - there's not one in any store in the US. So I moved up to the $40 one, but along the way I discovered a that they are discontinuing a 3" cutter and have a nice die grinder for a decent price, so they followed me hoe=me. And in the hardware store I found the self-etching primer and satin black paint. (They had flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. No matte.)

So I came home and used the needle scaler. Yippee! As you can see in the before and after pics at the bottom it works. It isn't perfect, but FAR better than any other way I've found. Thanks, Jim. :nabble_smiley_good: (But, unfortunately it didn't improve the welds nor the look thereof.)

And then I put the platform in the paint booth, blew it off with compressed air, and then washed it down with brake cleaner. After letting it dry for a few minutes I made sure it was dry by using a heat gun on it, and then put on "about" three coats of primer, which was one full can. I say "about" because there are so many sides to this thing that it is hard to remember where you've been, but suffice to say that it is well and truly coated. Tomorrow I plan to give it several coats of the satin black and then let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Looking great. Never heard of a needle scaler until now. Would also be wonderful to use on floor pans to knock off some old scale rust.

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Looking great. Never heard of a needle scaler until now. Would also be wonderful to use on floor pans to knock off some old scale rust.

I'm not sure you want to do that in your neighborhood. I wore my 3M Workmate headphones to block out the noise and every once in a while I touched the headphones to the platform while I was hitting it with the tool. The noise was amazingly LOUD! Those needles are hitting at 4800 times per minute, or 80 times per second. It was loud enough on that platform, but if you were to hit sheetmetal I think you'd wake up the dead!

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Big Blue's exhaust system was done by a professional and has the proper hangers and clearance to the frame. So no vibrations like that come into the cab.

As for what I did today, I made a trip to Harbor Freight and the local hardware store. And I found out why HF can offer that needle scaler for such a cheap price - there's not one in any store in the US. So I moved up to the $40 one, but along the way I discovered a that they are discontinuing a 3" cutter and have a nice die grinder for a decent price, so they followed me hoe=me. And in the hardware store I found the self-etching primer and satin black paint. (They had flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. No matte.)

So I came home and used the needle scaler. Yippee! As you can see in the before and after pics at the bottom it works. It isn't perfect, but FAR better than any other way I've found. Thanks, Jim. :nabble_smiley_good: (But, unfortunately it didn't improve the welds nor the look thereof.)

And then I put the platform in the paint booth, blew it off with compressed air, and then washed it down with brake cleaner. After letting it dry for a few minutes I made sure it was dry by using a heat gun on it, and then put on "about" three coats of primer, which was one full can. I say "about" because there are so many sides to this thing that it is hard to remember where you've been, but suffice to say that it is well and truly coated. Tomorrow I plan to give it several coats of the satin black and then let it dry for at least 24 hours.

Like I said, the sem-matte hasn't been a thing in over 3 decades.

I'm glad the needle scaler is helping for you!

How did you live without one???

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