Big Blue's Bucket Seats

[Gary Lewis]

You need to read it as -action- then product-action-then product.

It is a lot clearer that way.

Scrub in the scuff 'n clean

Rinse and dry

Wipe on the plastic & leather prep

Sand

Wipe on the plastic & leather prep

Spray a light coat of colour

5 minutes to tack

Spray on a wet coat of colour within 15-20 minutes and dry to touch for 30 minutes

Yes, and no. You didn't include using any of the 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter, and that's where these instructions come from.

I've already done the scuffing and sanding using 38353 Plastic & Leather Prep and am just trying to figure out how to use 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter. And reading the 4 Easy Steps to Refinishing Interior Plastic I see these instructions:

"To promote adhesion on plastics, such as TPO, EPDM, PP or other similar thermoplastics, use Plastic Adhesion Promoter or XXX Adhesion Promoter. Apply one light coat, let flash for 5 minutes, and then apply one full wet coat. Allow this coat to flash 10-15 minutes, but no longer than 30 minutes before topcoating."

So I think the instructions on this 39863 can should be read the same way - one light coat, wait 5 minutes, one wet coat, wait 10 - 15 minutes, and then topcoat. These instructions just don't give you the topcoat step.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, and no. You didn't include using any of the 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter, and that's where these instructions come from.

I've already done the scuffing and sanding using 38353 Plastic & Leather Prep and am just trying to figure out how to use 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter. And reading the 4 Easy Steps to Refinishing Interior Plastic I see these instructions:

"To promote adhesion on plastics, such as TPO, EPDM, PP or other similar thermoplastics, use Plastic Adhesion Promoter or XXX Adhesion Promoter. Apply one light coat, let flash for 5 minutes, and then apply one full wet coat. Allow this coat to flash 10-15 minutes, but no longer than 30 minutes before topcoating."

So I think the instructions on this 39863 can should be read the same way - one light coat, wait 5 minutes, one wet coat, wait 10 - 15 minutes, and then topcoat. These instructions just don't give you the topcoat step.

Okay, I am wrong.

These are the instructions for the adhesion promoter.

I have to assume the finish comes after the 30min dry time.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Okay, I am wrong.

These are the instructions for the adhesion promoter.

I have to assume the finish comes after the 30min dry time.

You helped me think through it, so thanks. I think I understand what they meant, although their instructions are awful. I'll write up what I think they meant later.

Right now we are in the 10 - 15 minute window and I'm getting ready to start topcoating.

[Gary Lewis]

You helped me think through it, so thanks. I think I understand what they meant, although their instructions are awful. I'll write up what I think they meant later.

Right now we are in the 10 - 15 minute window and I'm getting ready to start topcoating.

Got the parts painted, but in the middle of that the upholstery shop called to say the seats are done. So I finished the painting and went to get the seats. I like them!

The left pic shows the parts in the paint booth under fluorescent lighting. The right pic shows the seats with one of the painted parts in LED lighting. Looking at the seats vs their picture I'd say the picture of the seats and that part is pretty accurate, colorwise.

I hope to install the seats tomorrow and start prep'ing the console for painting.

[grumpin]

Got the parts painted, but in the middle of that the upholstery shop called to say the seats are done. So I finished the painting and went to get the seats. I like them!

The left pic shows the parts in the paint booth under fluorescent lighting. The right pic shows the seats with one of the painted parts in LED lighting. Looking at the seats vs their picture I'd say the picture of the seats and that part is pretty accurate, colorwise.

I hope to install the seats tomorrow and start prep'ing the console for painting.

The seats look nice!

[Gary Lewis]

The seats look nice!

Thanks, Dane. They feel comfortable when I sat down on one, but it is really hard to tell when your feet are straight out in front of you. (And then you have to get up.)

The center is softer than the bolsters, so you sink in a bit when you sit down which means the bolsters are higher than your rear end and hold you in. So I think they'll work out great.

It is supposed to be reasonably nice tomorrow so I hope to get them installed and then take it for a drive. (The truck is clean and I'm trying to keep it that way.)

[Gary Lewis]

Got the parts painted, but in the middle of that the upholstery shop called to say the seats are done. So I finished the painting and went to get the seats. I like them!The left pic shows the parts in the paint booth under fluorescent lighting. The right pic shows the seats with one of the painted parts in LED lighting. Looking at the seats vs their picture I'd say the picture of the seats and that part is pretty accurate, colorwise.I hope to install the seats tomorrow and start prep'ing the console for painting.

Now for an attempt at listing the process I used:

 

1. CLEAN: SEM says "Clean the area with SEM Soap and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, paying close attention to textured or recessed areas. Rinse with water or wipe away residue with damp cloth and let dry."

    

   The need here is to get all dirt and damaged plastic off the part. So for things like my console, which has no sun-damaged plastic, a good scrub will do the trick. But I use Dawn soap first and then use SEM soap. And on smooth or lightly-textured parts scrubbing with the recommended gray scrub pad works. But if the part has a lot of texture, like the console, a Nylon brush will help you get down into it.

    

   However, if the part has damaged plastic you'll need to get it off. I've used wet & dry sandpaper and also a stainless steel wire brush followed by smoothing with sandpaper to remove the bad plastic. Then follow up with Dawn and/or SEM soap.

 

RE-CLEAN: SEM says "Clean with Plastic & Leather Prep or Zero VOC Surface Cleaner using a clean, lint-free towel and wiping in one direction. If contamination still exists after cleaning, water will bead on the surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs."

 

But I haven't been able to get rid of beading, and I've been quite diligent. However, I am having good good results so I think I'm getting things CLEAN.

 

PREP: SEM says "To promote adhesion on plastics, such as ABS, PVC or other similar plastics, apply a medium wet coat of Sand Free. While still wet, apply a light coat of Color Coat. (Avoid applying the first coat of Color Coat too heavily or sagging could occur.) As Sand Free evaporates, Color Coat is drawn into the surface, resulting in excellent adhesion."

 

Further, "To promote adhesion on plastics, such as TPO, EPDM, PP or other similar thermoplastics, use Plastic Adhesion Promoter or XXX Adhesion Promoter. Apply one light coat, let flash for 5 minutes, and then apply one full wet coat. Allow this coat to flash 10-15 minutes, but no longer than 30 minutes before topcoating."

 

So I'm using the Plastic Adhesion Promoter, just as it specifies - one light coat, wait 5 minutes, then a heavy coat, and wait 10 to 15 minutes before applying the Color Coat.

 

APPLY: I didn't wait more than 30 minutes and sprayed a light coat, waited 5 minutes, and then put on a heavier coat. After 10 minutes I put on another coat, and then another after another 10 minutes. After three heavy coats, just less than running, the parts were well coated.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Now for an attempt at listing the process I used:

 

1. CLEAN: SEM says "Clean the area with SEM Soap and a gray scuff pad. Scrub thoroughly, paying close attention to textured or recessed areas. Rinse with water or wipe away residue with damp cloth and let dry."

    

   The need here is to get all dirt and damaged plastic off the part. So for things like my console, which has no sun-damaged plastic, a good scrub will do the trick. But I use Dawn soap first and then use SEM soap. And on smooth or lightly-textured parts scrubbing with the recommended gray scrub pad works. But if the part has a lot of texture, like the console, a Nylon brush will help you get down into it.

    

   However, if the part has damaged plastic you'll need to get it off. I've used wet & dry sandpaper and also a stainless steel wire brush followed by smoothing with sandpaper to remove the bad plastic. Then follow up with Dawn and/or SEM soap.

 

RE-CLEAN: SEM says "Clean with Plastic & Leather Prep or Zero VOC Surface Cleaner using a clean, lint-free towel and wiping in one direction. If contamination still exists after cleaning, water will bead on the surface. Repeat until beading no longer occurs."

 

But I haven't been able to get rid of beading, and I've been quite diligent. However, I am having good good results so I think I'm getting things CLEAN.

 

PREP: SEM says "To promote adhesion on plastics, such as ABS, PVC or other similar plastics, apply a medium wet coat of Sand Free. While still wet, apply a light coat of Color Coat. (Avoid applying the first coat of Color Coat too heavily or sagging could occur.) As Sand Free evaporates, Color Coat is drawn into the surface, resulting in excellent adhesion."

 

Further, "To promote adhesion on plastics, such as TPO, EPDM, PP or other similar thermoplastics, use Plastic Adhesion Promoter or XXX Adhesion Promoter. Apply one light coat, let flash for 5 minutes, and then apply one full wet coat. Allow this coat to flash 10-15 minutes, but no longer than 30 minutes before topcoating."

 

So I'm using the Plastic Adhesion Promoter, just as it specifies - one light coat, wait 5 minutes, then a heavy coat, and wait 10 to 15 minutes before applying the Color Coat.

 

APPLY: I didn't wait more than 30 minutes and sprayed a light coat, waited 5 minutes, and then put on a heavier coat. After 10 minutes I put on another coat, and then another after another 10 minutes. After three heavy coats, just less than running, the parts were well coated.

 

Got the seat bolted in today, but there's still a lot of work to do in order to get them the way I want them. Anyway, here they are bolted in:For instance, the "latch" for the driver's seat, which I installed on the passenger's side, hits inverter. And I've come to realize that with the tab on the passenger's seat I can't change the angle of the seatback very much as there's not much room to slot it. Given that I think I'll put the driver's seat on the driver's side and vice versa and lock down the passenger's seatback. And I'm going to have to figure out how to put stops in so the passenger's seat isn't slammed back into the inverter. But I think I'll be able to do that by placing a bolt in the track at just the right spot.Here are the two latches side by side:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the seat bolted in today, but there's still a lot of work to do in order to get them the way I want them. Anyway, here they are bolted in:

For instance, the "latch" for the driver's seat, which I installed on the passenger's side, hits inverter. And I've come to realize that with the tab on the passenger's seat I can't change the angle of the seatback very much as there's not much room to slot it. Given that I think I'll put the driver's seat on the driver's side and vice versa and lock down the passenger's seatback. And I'm going to have to figure out how to put stops in so the passenger's seat isn't slammed back into the inverter. But I think I'll be able to do that by placing a bolt in the track at just the right spot.

Here are the two latches side by side:

I'm going to suggest that a beam clamp (available in the electrical or plumbing aisle of your big box) would probably be an expedient solution for cheap.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the seat bolted in today, but there's still a lot of work to do in order to get them the way I want them. Anyway, here they are bolted in:

For instance, the "latch" for the driver's seat, which I installed on the passenger's side, hits inverter. And I've come to realize that with the tab on the passenger's seat I can't change the angle of the seatback very much as there's not much room to slot it. Given that I think I'll put the driver's seat on the driver's side and vice versa and lock down the passenger's seatback. And I'm going to have to figure out how to put stops in so the passenger's seat isn't slammed back into the inverter. But I think I'll be able to do that by placing a bolt in the track at just the right spot.

Here are the two latches side by side:

Vinyl colour is much better in these shots!