Big Blue's Bucket Seats

[mat in tn]

good video. however, this type of test is only good for rock chips. and abrasive type wear. nothing to do with the real reason for a paint over rust coating. stopping the rust process! por works differently. it requires a process in order to do its total job. removal of as much rust as possible is a major part although saying that would undermine the marketing. read the fine print. then acid treating what is left to chemically stall the oxidation and letting it dry as much as possible. last is the coating with the topcoat which is moisture cured. drawing humidity from the air and surface. Rust oleum is a product line, a brand name. only their rusty metal primer has any rust inhibiting ingredients. the topcoats are only that. they are durable and create a seal, but they also seal in whatever is there. I use both regularly. frames get por system as a fully riveted frame has seams that cannot be blasted if left riveted. but any part that can be completely cleaned gets Rust oleum. also, por is not uv stable. it gets milky looking if in direct sunlight. given time, the sun will kill any paint.

[Gary Lewis]

good video. however, this type of test is only good for rock chips. and abrasive type wear. nothing to do with the real reason for a paint over rust coating. stopping the rust process! por works differently. it requires a process in order to do its total job. removal of as much rust as possible is a major part although saying that would undermine the marketing. read the fine print. then acid treating what is left to chemically stall the oxidation and letting it dry as much as possible. last is the coating with the topcoat which is moisture cured. drawing humidity from the air and surface. Rust oleum is a product line, a brand name. only their rusty metal primer has any rust inhibiting ingredients. the topcoats are only that. they are durable and create a seal, but they also seal in whatever is there. I use both regularly. frames get por system as a fully riveted frame has seams that cannot be blasted if left riveted. but any part that can be completely cleaned gets Rust oleum. also, por is not uv stable. it gets milky looking if in direct sunlight. given time, the sun will kill any paint.

My experience with POR15 is that is STICKS! I have it on lots of things I've built, like engine stands & engine hoists, and it has been on them for years with no flaking nor coming off of any kind. And those have had harsh usage.

However, the engine hoist has been left where it got some sunshine and it is turning milky, as Mat said it would.

So the base POR15 needs to be covered, and that's where the difficulty lies. Their top coat sticks well to the base if you hit it while the base is sticky, but it is difficult for me to brush on another coat during the time that the base is sticky. So I've gone to spraying a top coat of my choosing on while the base is sticky and that works very well - especially if the top coat is a different color than the POR15.

As for Rustoleum, the products I used didn't get as hard as a POR15/sprayed top coat would have. That's ok as they won't see rough service, but the surface is a bit more delicate.