Gary Lewis Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 You don't want to spray, peel off garbage the kids put on their wheels these days. Get the dip in the can, just dip the lever. This is what we use for pliers and the like. Maybe do it twice. Prep like you were going to primer it. Sandblast, texture, whatever... Sounds like a plan. I think the idea of media-blasting it is good to give it grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 Sounds like a plan. I think the idea of media-blasting it is good to give it grip. Got the Plasti Dip on order from the local Ace Hardware for $15. Will be in next Wednesday. Amazon wanted $35, and while that's probably twice the size I don't need that much and it'll go bad before I use it all. (Got a can of yellow from Dad after he passed and it was hard.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Got the Plasti Dip on order from the local Ace Hardware for $15. Will be in next Wednesday. Amazon wanted $35, and while that's probably twice the size I don't need that much and it'll go bad before I use it all. (Got a can of yellow from Dad after he passed and it was hard.) just an observation. are you planning on painting the tracks? they sure stand out in the pictures. your work looks great! please don't let those take away from your work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 just an observation. are you planning on painting the tracks? they sure stand out in the pictures. your work looks great! please don't let those take away from your work. If they're steel, and not galvanized, consider cold blue. The selenium doesn't eat up any clearances, will turn them black, it won't rub off, chip, whatever... https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1556419877 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 If they're steel, and not galvanized, consider cold blue. The selenium doesn't eat up any clearances, will turn them black, it won't rub off, chip, whatever... https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1556419877 Mat - I plan on painting the tracks and the adjusting arm. I knew they didn't look good, but was blown away with how bad they are until I got them beside the platform today. Jim - I'm not painting the moving parts, just the parts that are visible. I'm going to try to use the etching primer and paint I used on the platform. That's going to mean a lot of cleaning as the lube I've used has migrated everywhere. We shall see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Mat - I plan on painting the tracks and the adjusting arm. I knew they didn't look good, but was blown away with how bad they are until I got them beside the platform today. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/face-with-open-mouth-vomiting-23x23_orig.png Jim - I'm not painting the moving parts, just the parts that are visible. I'm going to try to use the etching primer and paint I used on the platform. That's going to mean a lot of cleaning as the lube I've used has migrated everywhere. We shall see how it goes. Got the lid to the console cleaned and painted today, as shown below. And for reference I used the process I set out in this post. But I'm sure I don't have enough paint to do the console itself, so will have to wait until Monday to order more from Vinyl Pro. And for posterity, that's SEM 4130 Regatta Blue. While waiting on that to come in I'll work on the console as it has some holes in it that I'd like to plug before I paint. So I'm looking for recommendations on how to do that. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif Here's what I'm wanting to plug: And here's the lid: Last, in case someone wants to know at some point, here's the ID # info from the console, on the left, and the lid: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Got the lid to the console cleaned and painted today, as shown below. And for reference I used the process I set out in this post. But I'm sure I don't have enough paint to do the console itself, so will have to wait until Monday to order more from Vinyl Pro. And for posterity, that's SEM 4130 Regatta Blue. While waiting on that to come in I'll work on the console as it has some holes in it that I'd like to plug before I paint. So I'm looking for recommendations on how to do that. Here's what I'm wanting to plug: And here's the lid: Last, in case someone wants to know at some point, here's the ID # info from the console, on the left, and the lid: Do you have any of that G-Flex left? Otherwise go to the parts store and get bumper & facia filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Do you have any of that G-Flex left? Otherwise go to the parts store and get bumper & facia filler. Good idea, Jim. I do have some left. Now let's talk about how best to use it: Put a piece of tape on the inside of the console covering the holes and poke some of the G-Flex through the holes from the outside, leveling it off as it runs in. This would ensure that I don't make a mess as I can scrape any excess off before it sets. Put Saran Wrap on the outside and hold it in place tightly with some kind of cushion to ensure it is pushed down in the texture, and then smear G-Flex on from the inside and allow it to run down/out against the Saran Wrap. This approach worries me as the Saran Wrap may not be tightly against the console and allow the G-Flex to run out and make a big, ugly blob on the side. In either approach I'm not much worried about the inside as I'm going to cover the inside with felt. But what do you think of those approaches? Are there other, better ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Good idea, Jim. I do have some left. Now let's talk about how best to use it: Put a piece of tape on the inside of the console covering the holes and poke some of the G-Flex through the holes from the outside, leveling it off as it runs in. This would ensure that I don't make a mess as I can scrape any excess off before it sets. Put Saran Wrap on the outside and hold it in place tightly with some kind of cushion to ensure it is pushed down in the texture, and then smear G-Flex on from the inside and allow it to run down/out against the Saran Wrap. This approach worries me as the Saran Wrap may not be tightly against the console and allow the G-Flex to run out and make a big, ugly blob on the side. In either approach I'm not much worried about the inside as I'm going to cover the inside with felt. But what do you think of those approaches? Are there other, better ones? If you want the leather texture I'd say find an inconspicuous spot and use RTV to make an impression, so I can put that on the outside, either over a dab of G-Flex or fill the hole from the back with a toothpick, popsicle stick or something similar (I use a palate knife) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 If you want the leather texture I'd say find an inconspicuous spot and use RTV to make an impression, so I can put that on the outside, either over a dab of G-Flex or fill the hole from the back with a toothpick, popsicle stick or something similar (I use a palate knife) The area is pretty big, so I'd have to do it a hole at a time if I made an impression. But I'm not too worried about the texture. So what I'm thinking of doing is using box tape on the back side and then fill the hole from the outside using a toothpick. I might even be able to put some texture in it as it cures. I think I'll try that approach on one hole and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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