ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 The area is pretty big, so I'd have to do it a hole at a time if I made an impression. But I'm not too worried about the texture. So what I'm thinking of doing is using box tape on the back side and then fill the hole from the outside using a toothpick. I might even be able to put some texture in it as it cures. I think I'll try that approach on one hole and see how it goes. Yes, that seems a good plan if you're looking to fill the holes individually. And, of course, you'll be painting w/SEM afterwards, so minor imperfections aren't a big deal as long as the prep is good and the epoxy hangs on. Gary, you're old enough to remember those vinyl repair kits that came with a few leather textures and you would iron the sheet over the unvulcanized patching paste, that claimed "invisible repair"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Yes, that seems a good plan if you're looking to fill the holes individually. And, of course, you'll be painting w/SEM afterwards, so minor imperfections aren't a big deal as long as the prep is good and the epoxy hangs on. Gary, you're old enough to remember those vinyl repair kits that came with a few leather textures and you would iron the sheet over the unvulcanized patching paste, that claimed "invisible repair"? Yes, I remember those sheets. Never tried them though. I think the epoxy will hold, but I'll prep the plastic as if I'm getting ready to paint it before applying the epoxy. That should give it the best possible chance of adhering. Then once I get the new paint I'll prep it again. Speaking of the new paint, I'm keeping enough of the "old" paint to do the finish coat with on the console. That way even if the new paint is slightly different in color the lid and the console will match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Yes, I remember those sheets. Never tried them though. I think the epoxy will hold, but I'll prep the plastic as if I'm getting ready to paint it before applying the epoxy. That should give it the best possible chance of adhering. Then once I get the new paint I'll prep it again. Speaking of the new paint, I'm keeping enough of the "old" paint to do the finish coat with on the console. That way even if the new paint is slightly different in color the lid and the console will match. Wife with alcohol and then play the flame of a propane towards her butane lighter over the surface. This leaves plastic molecules with a higher surface energy to bond to the glue, or for the glue to bond too There shouldn't be any problem with it coming loose. That stuff is tenacious. You've seen the kayak video, I'm sure... *Wipe* ..... *torch or*...... *to them*.........have I mentioned how much I HATE predictive keyboards and AI augmented speech to text? It's almost like the first iteration of Dragon, but it shoves it back in, even if you correct it. 🤬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Wife with alcohol and then play the flame of a propane towards her butane lighter over the surface. This leaves plastic molecules with a higher surface energy to bond to the glue, or for the glue to bond too There shouldn't be any problem with it coming loose. That stuff is tenacious. You've seen the kayak video, I'm sure... *Wipe* ..... *torch or*...... *to them*.........have I mentioned how much I HATE predictive keyboards and AI augmented speech to text? It's almost like the first iteration of Dragon, but it shoves it back in, even if you correct it. 🤬 I think your Android is playing games with you. But I know what you are saying. However, here are the instructions directly from West Systems user's manual: Plastic— Flame treating plastic before applying G/flex epoxy substantially improves adhesion. Before flame treating, clean plastics (except for polycarbonate) with isopropyl alcohol to remove contamination. Sand all plastics (including polycarbonate) with 80-grit sandpaper to provide texture for good adhesion. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) and LDPE (low-density polyethylene) must be flame treated for good adhesion. ABS and PVC plastics also benefit from flame treatment. If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it doesn’t hurt to flame treat. To flame treat plastic, pass the flame of a propane torch across the cleaned and sanded plastic surface. Do this quickly, allowing the blue part of the flame to touch the surface, and keeping the torch moving at a rate of 12 inches per second. No obvious change takes place but the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically improves adhesion. If flame treating a wide area, make multiple passes with the torch ¾" apart. Be careful not to melt or burn the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 I think your Android is playing games with you. But I know what you are saying. However, here are the instructions directly from West Systems user's manual: Plastic— Flame treating plastic before applying G/flex epoxy substantially improves adhesion. Before flame treating, clean plastics (except for polycarbonate) with isopropyl alcohol to remove contamination. Sand all plastics (including polycarbonate) with 80-grit sandpaper to provide texture for good adhesion. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) and LDPE (low-density polyethylene) must be flame treated for good adhesion. ABS and PVC plastics also benefit from flame treatment. If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it doesn’t hurt to flame treat. To flame treat plastic, pass the flame of a propane torch across the cleaned and sanded plastic surface. Do this quickly, allowing the blue part of the flame to touch the surface, and keeping the torch moving at a rate of 12 inches per second. No obvious change takes place but the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically improves adhesion. If flame treating a wide area, make multiple passes with the torch ¾" apart. Be careful not to melt or burn the surface. 😄😆😂🤣 You got me! I'm dead! 💀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 The slide handles for the seats don't have "knobs" on them. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n147098/DS_Seat_Slide_Lever.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n147098/PS_Seat_Slide_Lever.jpg Gary, I know I am very late, but this Dennis Carpenter knob cannot fit? EDIT: Out of stock! But this part number pops up NOS here and there on the web. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 The slide handles for the seats don't have "knobs" on them. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n147098/DS_Seat_Slide_Lever.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n147098/PS_Seat_Slide_Lever.jpg Gary, I know I am very late, but this Dennis Carpenter knob cannot fit? EDIT: Out of stock! But this part number pops up NOS here and there on the web. Jeff - Thanks. It might fit the passenger's side given the shape. But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat. I really don't remember what the tracks came off of, so can't be sure. But I think the Plasti Dip will work well. It won't have the "finished" look the proper knob would, but I think it'll be acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Jeff - Thanks. It might fit the passenger's side given the shape. But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat. I really don't remember what the tracks came off of, so can't be sure. But I think the Plasti Dip will work well. It won't have the "finished" look the proper knob would, but I think it'll be acceptable. I left some notes , above, for the Lol's... Your idea of putting some holes through the metal, so it CAN'T slip off is a good one imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 I left some notes , above, for the Lol's... Your idea of putting some holes through the metal, so it CAN'T slip off is a good one imo. Yes, I fully understood what you were trying to say and what was happening. But had I not been au fait with the West Systems instructions, thanks to you, I'd have not twigged. So the explanations weren't needed for me but surely will help the others. And I do intend to drill a few of holes in each arm. While the one on the driver's side has the notches and the coating isn't likely to come off, the one on the passenger's side has nothing to keep it on but adhesion. So a few holes should make a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 It might fit the passenger's side given the shape. But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat. Ok Gary, I got it. They are different style… There is the « folded up » style: And the « flat » style: And they all use a retainer clip. Didn’t find any NOS or used on the web, so a custom made knob is probably a good solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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