ArdWrknTrk Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Thank you!! The one regret my dad and I both have had was not getting the trade passed down. We both know nothing about Textiles (full disclosure!). In fact my dad is a retired CPA, and I'm in "engineering". I have no idea why a CPA needs a factory, but "engineering" could pretty much have gone unsaid! 😆😆😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 I have no idea why a CPA needs a factory, but "engineering" could pretty much have gone unsaid! 😆😆😆 True. Those were words exchanged on why I should be in "engineering" decades ago. I do hope to do something. I just don't like the large geographical gap. Prefer something locally here. I know there is the preference to do offshore manufacturing due to lower labor costs, but with sufficient efficiency and automation that can be overcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 True. Those were words exchanged on why I should be in "engineering" decades ago. I do hope to do something. I just don't like the large geographical gap. Prefer something locally here. I know there is the preference to do offshore manufacturing due to lower labor costs, but with sufficient efficiency and automation that can be overcome. Also: I now know I'd pay to move downwind of your kitchen.... 😉 🤤 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Also: I now know I'd pay to move downwind of your kitchen.... 😉 🤤 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 "Das 460" is on the stand now. While the Donor Bullnose truck was still running, I did/observed the following - compression test. Pretty much stock, and healthy numbers. (pic below). Sucker had been burning some ATF for a while through the vacuum modulator so I'm sure the rings are happy and free - oil pressure test (Cold 60 PSI, Fully warm ~25-30PSI at idle, and ~ 60 PSI at 1500 rpm). - vacuum reading ~18 - 20 in Hg, I know it can do better. The old 4BBL EGR gasket was not in good shape. - No oil leaks/drips... but the old 4BBL had been leaking gas everywhere for a while and it has sludged up the exterior of the intake and block mainly on the front - The block is painted blue. Not sure if blue was the color in 1986, may have been grey. I am positive the motors been out before at least once for an oil gasket job. - Freeze plugs all look solid. No visible degradation. My plans are to do the following, goal is to get it back in the bronco without altering the baseline too much - clean the block and top of the intake with soap/water - clean valve covers, strip old paint, new gaskets - oil pan gasket -- No plans at the moment... will just take out the dipstick, check the inside with my articulating borescope, if the pick-up and other things look reasonably clean, then just reinstall dipstick. - rear main seal - zero plans to touch this finicky thing. No leaks at the moment. The good news is that the bronco subframe allows me to drop the oil pan if/when needed rather easily without having to do much. I have done this job on a bullnose before and it was no fun. - I'm going to install an adapter to install the oil filter straight to the block. The cooler hoses will interfere with my lower radiator hose in the bronco. Will need a custom hose.... can revisit later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 "Das 460" is on the stand now. While the Donor Bullnose truck was still running, I did/observed the following - compression test. Pretty much stock, and healthy numbers. (pic below). Sucker had been burning some ATF for a while through the vacuum modulator so I'm sure the rings are happy and free - oil pressure test (Cold 60 PSI, Fully warm ~25-30PSI at idle, and ~ 60 PSI at 1500 rpm). - vacuum reading ~18 - 20 in Hg, I know it can do better. The old 4BBL EGR gasket was not in good shape. - No oil leaks/drips... but the old 4BBL had been leaking gas everywhere for a while and it has sludged up the exterior of the intake and block mainly on the front - The block is painted blue. Not sure if blue was the color in 1986, may have been grey. I am positive the motors been out before at least once for an oil gasket job. - Freeze plugs all look solid. No visible degradation. My plans are to do the following, goal is to get it back in the bronco without altering the baseline too much - clean the block and top of the intake with soap/water - clean valve covers, strip old paint, new gaskets - oil pan gasket -- No plans at the moment... will just take out the dipstick, check the inside with my articulating borescope, if the pick-up and other things look reasonably clean, then just reinstall dipstick. - rear main seal - zero plans to touch this finicky thing. No leaks at the moment. The good news is that the bronco subframe allows me to drop the oil pan if/when needed rather easily without having to do much. I have done this job on a bullnose before and it was no fun. - I'm going to install an adapter to install the oil filter straight to the block. The cooler hoses will interfere with my lower radiator hose in the bronco. Will need a custom hose.... can revisit later. The block & pan should be grey. My pickup looked like it was packed full of shredded cheese (nylon cam gear teeth) It took me an hour with crocodile forceps to unplug it. If it's out change the pan gasket for a one piece style with washers at the bolt holes. Make sure the strainer is clean. RMS is a PITA. Don't touch it if it's okay. The filter adapter is a stock part for Mustangs and the like. Install with orange or red Loctite and an Allen wrench. What's wrong with the lower radiator hose, when going to a 70's chassis? Plenty of places make custom wrapped silicone pressure hoses for turbo builds. That hose is on the suction side of the water pump. It would be wise to put. a spring in there so it doesn't collapse before the coolant heats up and creates pressure in the system. 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 The block & pan should be grey. My pickup looked like it was packed full of shredded cheese (nylon cam gear teeth) It took me an hour with crocodile forceps to unplug it. If it's out change the pan gasket for a one piece style with washers at the bolt holes. Make sure the strainer is clean. RMS is a PITA. Don't touch it if it's okay. The filter adapter is a stock part for Mustangs and the like. Install with orange or red Loctite and an Allen wrench. What's wrong with the lower radiator hose, when going to a 70's chassis? Plenty of places make custom wrapped silicone pressure hoses for turbo builds. That hose is on the suction side of the water pump. It would be wise to put. a spring in there so it doesn't collapse before the coolant heats up and creates pressure in the system. 💡 If I had an engine out I'd replace the soft/core plugs. They are a huge PAIN to replace in the vehicle and easy now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 If I had an engine out I'd replace the soft/core plugs. They are a huge PAIN to replace in the vehicle and easy now. Agreed. Normally I would but all the plugs on this seem to be solid including the one at the exhaust manifold output which usually rot out. I’ll take a closer look at the ones in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16 Share Posted February 16 Agreed. Normally I would but all the plugs on this seem to be solid including the one at the exhaust manifold output which usually rot out. I’ll take a closer look at the ones in the back. I've never had core plugs fail on any vehicle that even remotely had decent coolant in it. The ones inside the bell housing are not any different than the others as far as accessibility is concerned.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 The block & pan should be grey. My pickup looked like it was packed full of shredded cheese (nylon cam gear teeth) It took me an hour with crocodile forceps to unplug it. If it's out change the pan gasket for a one piece style with washers at the bolt holes. Make sure the strainer is clean. RMS is a PITA. Don't touch it if it's okay. The filter adapter is a stock part for Mustangs and the like. Install with orange or red Loctite and an Allen wrench. What's wrong with the lower radiator hose, when going to a 70's chassis? Plenty of places make custom wrapped silicone pressure hoses for turbo builds. That hose is on the suction side of the water pump. It would be wise to put. a spring in there so it doesn't collapse before the coolant heats up and creates pressure in the system. 💡 Alright I’ll add an 1 piece oil pan gasket to the mix. I’ve used it before, needs a small resizing of 4 of the washers on the gasket. Be good to check out the pick up tube, oil pump etc. The lower radiator hose that came out of the bullnose would work I think, and it has a spring already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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