460 Smog Delete and Oil Cooler Delete for a 78 Bronco Swap

[ArdWrknTrk]

I gave permatex 2 only 2 hours to set on either side of a felpro gasket, so I wasn't being fair to it. But i'm still impressed it set well after the customary 4 hours. I like permatex 2 overall the best because it has resistance to just about everything including fuel since its solvent based. Has better working time than RTV. I avoid RTVs for anything vertical like timing cover, water pump in proximity to fuel as they are not very fuel resistant per the datasheet. A couple of fuel leaks on the intake may possibly weaken RTV as it flows down the engine.. those are at least my thoughts/beliefs. I have no data to prove/disprove any of this. I do use RTV for oil seals like oil pan, differential covers.

I like Three Bond for joints that are rigid.

It will hold engine cases together, full of oil or 2-cycle fuel

[viven44]

I like Three Bond for joints that are rigid.

It will hold engine cases together, full of oil or 2-cycle fuel

Interesting. Seems equivalent to "Permatex MotoSeal"..

Pre-Loctite PST, I used Permatex High Temp Thread sealant, but I think I like PST better. More consistent mix in the tube.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Interesting. Seems equivalent to "Permatex MotoSeal"..

Pre-Loctite PST, I used Permatex High Temp Thread sealant, but I think I like PST better. More consistent mix in the tube.

It is if you want protection from galling stainless steel.

Plus the fact it's intended for use in refineries and chemical plants.

Teflon is one of the most inert materials humans have ever made, and it's operating temperature window is pretty large (far beyond anything we'll see in a pickup truck)

[Gary Lewis]

It is if you want protection from galling stainless steel.

Plus the fact it's intended for use in refineries and chemical plants.

Teflon is one of the most inert materials humans have ever made, and it's operating temperature window is pretty large (far beyond anything we'll see in a pickup truck)

Jim introduced me to PST and I now use it on a lot of things. I always use it on stainless/stainless fittings after I had a brand new nut gall on a brand new bolt. Just turning it on with my fingers and it got hard to turn. Then it stopped turning and wouldn't come off with wrenches.

And it works well on things like seat bolts, the ones that go through the floor. I've had to repair threads on two trucks recently, so use it to prevent more of that.

And hydraulic fittings, for sure.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That’s the micro leak

In about 30 mins that’s what I saw. It started right before the 1 in 15. It seems to have stabilized there for now.

Pics under the block. No coolant leaks. Also scope showed nothing in the cylinders. My take is that if it’s a leak that’s smaller than even this, it probably wouldn’t hurt the engine ? Is that a fair thing to say ? Plus as I said before it’s only a gross test to make sure I didn’t screw up anything

I once had a cracked head, that would only leak after hammering on the engine and then backing off quickly.

I went through a dozen heater cores, but never popped a radiator cap!?!?

Sometimes you only find problems while in service.

 

[viven44]

I once had a cracked head, that would only leak after hammering on the engine and then backing off quickly.

I went through a dozen heater cores, but never popped a radiator cap!?!?

Sometimes you only find problems while in service.

I've followed all the best practices here hopefully. Cast iron manifold with valley pan, torqued all bolts in sequence to spec for the intake, water pump, timing cover.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've followed all the best practices here hopefully. Cast iron manifold with valley pan, torqued all bolts in sequence to spec for the intake, water pump, timing cover.

You're good!

99.9% better than average. 👍

[viven44]

Jim introduced me to PST and I now use it on a lot of things. I always use it on stainless/stainless fittings after I had a brand new nut gall on a brand new bolt. Just turning it on with my fingers and it got hard to turn. Then it stopped turning and wouldn't come off with wrenches.

And it works well on things like seat bolts, the ones that go through the floor. I've had to repair threads on two trucks recently, so use it to prevent more of that.

And hydraulic fittings, for sure.

I've had excellent luck removing just about any type of fastener with impact wrenches, including exhaust manifold bolts, and use it at the highest torque setting for reverse. I'll maybe nudge it for a few seconds at a lower torque setting before shocking it at the high torque setting... I've found that it helps avoid galling as the rate of movement is too fast to develop any heat that softens metals. I have seen people recommending no impact on fasteners like that, but this is just my way and it "Works for Me!"

I have never used Stainless steel nuts and bolts before, so if its so easy to gall them, I might one day try a series of controlled experiments to see if its easy to prove why my impact method works.

[viven44]

You're good!

99.9% better than average. 👍

Much thanks to you guys' wisdom

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've had excellent luck removing just about any type of fastener with impact wrenches, including exhaust manifold bolts, and use it at the highest torque setting for reverse. I'll maybe nudge it for a few seconds at a lower torque setting before shocking it at the high torque setting... I've found that it helps avoid galling as the rate of movement is too fast to develop any heat that softens metals. I have seen people recommending no impact on fasteners like that, but this is just my way and it "Works for Me!"

I have never used Stainless steel nuts and bolts before, so if its so easy to gall them, I might one day try a series of controlled experiments to see if its easy to prove why my impact method works.

Regular steel, especially in iron, won't ever weld itself in place.

That's the chrome and nickel...