viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 If I can't find a thermostat with a jiggler I drill a 3/32 hole in the flange. And I will ONLY use a Stant, Motorcraft or Gates thermostat. I hope your testing goes well! I went and checked my spare bin I have the 2 below, both Motorad. Stant is Motorad since 2021? This one has a Jiggler under the dome https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4484550&cc=1124031&pt=2200&jsn=500 This one doesn't have a Jiggler https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3952905&cc=1124031&pt=2200&jsn=496 I suppose i'll use the one with a Jiggler. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I went and checked my spare bin I have the 2 below, both Motorad. Stant is Motorad since 2021? This one has a Jiggler under the dome https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4484550&cc=1124031&pt=2200&jsn=500 This one doesn't have a Jiggler https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3952905&cc=1124031&pt=2200&jsn=496 I suppose i'll use the one with a Jiggler. Thanks! Certainly makes it easier to fill. I don't think a tiny hole compromises the thermostat effectiveness either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 Certainly makes it easier to fill. I don't think a tiny hole compromises the thermostat effectiveness either. The jiggler works as a bleeder right ? I have heard on the 351W/302s the jigger has to be pointed up to be effective (??), on the 460/351m/400, there is no Feng Shui correct ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 The jiggler works as a bleeder right ? I have heard on the 351W/302s the jigger has to be pointed up to be effective (??), on the 460/351m/400, there is no Feng Shui correct ? No matter what, the wax pellet has to go on the engine side or the thermostat will never open! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 No matter what, the wax pellet has to go on the engine side or the thermostat will never open! Noted! My favorite thermostat story is when I bought a truck with the 351m. The previous owner sold it cheap since it had a "headgasket" leak, he tried a new thermostat etc. I bought the truck and a whole bunch of stuff to fix the "headgasket" issue and maybe get a new cam, etc. When I brought it home the temps were in the 230 range, but water did not flow in the radiator !! I took out the thermostat since I suspected the thermostat and that cured the problem completely. Turned out they had installed a thermostat that belonged to a 351W which kept the coolant in the block. It was installed correctly but just the wrong design for the 335 series blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Noted! My favorite thermostat story is when I bought a truck with the 351m. The previous owner sold it cheap since it had a "headgasket" leak, he tried a new thermostat etc. I bought the truck and a whole bunch of stuff to fix the "headgasket" issue and maybe get a new cam, etc. When I brought it home the temps were in the 230 range, but water did not flow in the radiator !! I took out the thermostat since I suspected the thermostat and that cured the problem completely. Turned out they had installed a thermostat that belonged to a 351W which kept the coolant in the block. It was installed correctly but just the wrong design for the 335 series blocks. 335's have a piston on the back of the thermostat that covers a water passage and causes coolant to flow the whole length of the heads, instead of just circulating at the front. Gary has a thread about his Dad's truck using the White-Rodgers design. (Maybe he used a Stay-Kool?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 335's have a piston on the back of the thermostat that covers a water passage and causes coolant to flow the whole length of the heads, instead of just circulating at the front. Gary has a thread about his Dad's truck using the White-Rodgers design. (Maybe he used a Stay-Kool?) Interesting, I knew the cooling system was like none other, but that's all I knew. I like that design a lot... the intake job is easier as there are no water ports to worry about. The 351m I had, the intake was so tight I swear I was pulling 25" vacuum, it was so good that I think the distributor vacuum advance would have seen constant vac flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 Interesting, I knew the cooling system was like none other, but that's all I knew. I like that design a lot... the intake job is easier as there are no water ports to worry about. The 351m I had, the intake was so tight I swear I was pulling 25" vacuum, it was so good that I think the distributor vacuum advance would have seen constant vac flow Almost forgot but here is a video of the coolant pressure testing. The thermostat housing leaked because I didn't use a paper gasket, just permatex #2 and probably not enough. With a paper gasket there is an automatic control how how much should be used (or is there another mechanism such as permatex 2 only being a gasket dressing and not a standalone gasket maker?). I'm going to repeat with a paper gasket with permatex 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Almost forgot but here is a video of the coolant pressure testing. The thermostat housing leaked because I didn't use a paper gasket, just permatex #2 and probably not enough. With a paper gasket there is an automatic control how how much should be used (or is there another mechanism such as permatex 2 only being a gasket dressing and not a standalone gasket maker?). I'm going to repeat with a paper gasket with permatex 2. I like it! My only suggestion would be to pump it up w/o water in it the first round. Since air will leak easier than water it'll be a tougher test than with water. If you have any leaks you may be able to find them with your soapy water spray, but if not you might find them by using a tube in your ear and listening closely. But I really do like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 I like it! My only suggestion would be to pump it up w/o water in it the first round. Since air will leak easier than water it'll be a tougher test than with water. If you have any leaks you may be able to find them with your soapy water spray, but if not you might find them by using a tube in your ear and listening closely. But I really do like it. Thanks! Thats a good idea. I have done just that to stand-alone test of a radiator. I think an air based test is more thorough. I tried to drain the coolant last week but the block drain plugs are hard stuck and I don't want to mess with them I'll need to turn it upside down to flush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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