Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

460 Smog Delete and Oil Cooler Delete for a 78 Bronco Swap


Recommended Posts

Interesting. You could pump up the pressure and then close a valve and watch the pressure. If it doesn't fall you don't have a leak.

Thanks! Its not a perfect test by any means, just a gross check to make sure I didn't screw up anything, got RTV in all the spots etc.

I am very absent minded with my ADHD and I had mrs. watch me to make sure I did everything I was supposed to, and not leave a wrench or something in the valley pan :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No, I wish it was the complete set. It was just for the intake bolts. I just don't have any spares whatsoever, and in the future if I found a bolt or 2 that looked suspect, now I have a good inventory. :nabble_smiley_happy:

And to be honest, I have never bought ARP before, and 12 pt has worked well for me in the past, as long as I use a 3/8 12 pt socket and not a 10mm.

These bolts are honestly a bit of a sore point, not my happiest spend... I bought these bolts just to get past the shipping threshold. Thats how they get you!!

Who do you buy from that still has minimum shipping in 2024? :nabble_anim_confused:

I mean, anything with "free shipping" already has that cost baked in.

Companies aren't losing money or eating an expense when they offer "free shipping" they're just screwing you deeper if you don't hit their threshold. 🤷‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! Its not a perfect test by any means, just a gross check to make sure I didn't screw up anything, got RTV in all the spots etc.

I am very absent minded with my ADHD and I had mrs. watch me to make sure I did everything I was supposed to, and not leave a wrench or something in the valley pan :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

So, you're pressurizing the engine from the water pump?

What brand of radiator cap are you going to use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who do you buy from that still has minimum shipping in 2024? :nabble_anim_confused:

I mean, anything with "free shipping" already has that cost baked in.

Companies aren't losing money or eating an expense when they offer "free shipping" they're just screwing you deeper if you don't hit their threshold. 🤷‍♂️

Summit has a $109 minimum shipping. They do have them cheaper than anywhere else, even Amazon. They are about 30 miles away, the other day I just drove over there to pick up the timing set and the water pump plate.

The water pump plate was especially cheaper than elsewhere. Last week Amazon showed $38, but apparently they did a price drop (just checked!!!) Dang it. But I also saved a good chunk on the timing set.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-8501-460BP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, you're pressurizing the engine from the water pump?

What brand of radiator cap are you going to use?

The engine will be pressurized from the thermostat housing (Sans thermostat) after getting filled with water and the water pump end will be capped with a 2" PVC cap. The heater hose output will be capped as well.

It will be pressure tester -> Adapter -> hose -> Thermostat housing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine will be pressurized from the thermostat housing (Sans thermostat) after getting filled with water and the water pump end will be capped with a 2" PVC cap. The heater hose output will be capped as well.

It will be pressure tester -> Adapter -> hose -> Thermostat housing

I guess I never think of buying from summit. :nabble_anim_confused:

I did buy my clutch and flywheel there because they said it "ships today"

But they lied. And had it drop shipped two days later.

I suppose you still need to cap the radiator inlet to the water pump if you're going to pressurize the system.

If you're concerned about seals, why don't you do it with the thermostat in place and not touch anything when you do to drop the engine in?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The engine will be pressurized from the thermostat housing (Sans thermostat) after getting filled with water and the water pump end will be capped with a 2" PVC cap. The heater hose output will be capped as well.

It will be pressure tester -> Adapter -> hose -> Thermostat housing

Make SURE you have the best intake bypass hose you can for that 1 1/4 between the intake and water pump.

They get neglected and are difficult to replace when you have to fold it in half with a pair of needlenose pliers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I never think of buying from summit. :nabble_anim_confused:

I did buy my clutch and flywheel there because they said it "ships today"

But they lied. And had it drop shipped two days later.

I suppose you still need to cap the radiator inlet to the water pump if you're going to pressurize the system.

If you're concerned about seals, why don't you do it with the thermostat in place and not touch anything when you do to drop the engine in?

Yes that correct, The radiator inlet to the water pump will be capped as well with a 2" cap.

My plan is to get the pressure test done, then turn things upside down, get a good flush out of the thermostat port. Then install oil pan gasket. I'm not enough of an expert on thermostats to know if this would work with a thermostat.

I've only used permatex #2 to seal the housing for now, so no gaskets wasted :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make SURE you have the best intake bypass hose you can for that 1 1/4 between the intake and water pump.

They get neglected and are difficult to replace when you have to fold it in half with a pair of needlenose pliers.

Yes I bought some "duralast" 5/8 heater hose to replace that section. The old one was in terrible shape.. Whoever worked on it, had the hose messed up so bad when they tried to set the intake down maybe and shoved it into the water pump, it was practically closed at the water pump end :nabble_head-slap-23_orig: Many reasons why i'm happy to be re-doing all this !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that correct, The radiator inlet to the water pump will be capped as well with a 2" cap.

My plan is to get the pressure test done, then turn things upside down, get a good flush out of the thermostat port. Then install oil pan gasket. I'm not enough of an expert on thermostats to know if this would work with a thermostat.

I've only used permatex #2 to seal the housing for now, so no gaskets wasted :nabble_smiley_good:

If I can't find a thermostat with a jiggler I drill a 3/32 hole in the flange.

And I will ONLY use a Stant, Motorcraft or Gates thermostat.

I hope your testing goes well! :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...