viven44 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 I went with a 96 EFI fuel system, meaning tanks, filler hoses, fuel delivery modules (pumps, sending units, and internal switching valves), fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel rails. All of that fit perfectly but required a MeterMatch to interface the sending units to the earlier gauges. Through 86 Ford ran gauges with a heating coil under a thermometer that was the gauge. And the voltage to make the gauge go to the peg was less than 6v. In 87 that changed and the gauges require a totally different range of voltage, so the sending units are very different. That's the reason for the MeterMatch. But now I have a system that can easily be maintained as the parts are available off the shelf and at a reasonable price. And the tanks fill easily. If my current approach fails, that's what I'll be doing i.e. use a fuel injection 'system' with return fuel option but use a regulator before the carb to keep things in spec. Good to know about MeterMatch. I always thought of some means to calibrate known sending unit and known gauge but good to know such a thing exists off the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 If my current approach fails, that's what I'll be doing i.e. use a fuel injection 'system' with return fuel option but use a regulator before the carb to keep things in spec. Good to know about MeterMatch. I always thought of some means to calibrate known sending unit and known gauge but good to know such a thing exists off the shelf. While I'm waiting on the supplies, which includes new chromoly intake bolts (some of the original bolts had yielded from prior torquing... the characteristic thinning in the middle, etc), I decided to drop the oil pan. Noticed a large piece of cork gasket stuck in it, not sure if that would result in a mild drop in pressure, but i'm glad I got in it. The pickup was clean otherwise. I did notice the last job appears to have used gasket maker between pump and the block, wonder if that is generally considered OK. Peeked in the timing chain and it had some slop. Looked to be stock, was hoping it would already be a double roller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 While I'm waiting on the supplies, which includes new chromoly intake bolts (some of the original bolts had yielded from prior torquing... the characteristic thinning in the middle, etc), I decided to drop the oil pan. Noticed a large piece of cork gasket stuck in it, not sure if that would result in a mild drop in pressure, but i'm glad I got in it. The pickup was clean otherwise. I did notice the last job appears to have used gasket maker between pump and the block, wonder if that is generally considered OK. Peeked in the timing chain and it had some slop. Looked to be stock, was hoping it would already be a double roller I'd usually use Hylomar there. (the blue, non hardening stuff developed by Rolls Royce for their aircraft engines) You didn't find any 'shards' in the pickup screen? Cork oil pan gasket? Or just the corners at the timing case, like someone had gone in to replace the chain? If it's a dealer installed set it's definitely still retarded, with likely another plastic cam gear. But I'm not looking at it, you are.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 I'd usually use Hylomar there. (the blue, non hardening stuff developed by Rolls Royce for their aircraft engines) You didn't find any 'shards' in the pickup screen? Cork oil pan gasket? Or just the corners at the timing case, like someone had gone in to replace the chain? If it's a dealer installed set it's definitely still retarded, with likely another plastic cam gear. But I'm not looking at it, you are.... No shards of any kind. It was super clean minus a few pieces of cork gasket.. a large one and maybe a couple small pieces (likely from previous oil pan gasket).. I also dug out some cured RTV bits, but thats all. As far as I can tell it was a bottom-up job i.e. done from below as there were a couple of lumps of RTV under the oil pump area stuck to the oil pan. The oil pan gasket that was reinstalled was a 4 piece (Sides cork and rubber in front/back). The rubber parts are stuck hard. Did the 460 use Nylon gears in 1986 ? The chain that's on it has some slop definitely. I was able to rotate the crank ~2 degrees and transfer slop from one side to the other completely. My guess is that if there were Nylon shards, it was got rid of in the previous oil pan / rear main seal job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 No shards of any kind. It was super clean minus a few pieces of cork gasket.. a large one and maybe a couple small pieces (likely from previous oil pan gasket).. I also dug out some cured RTV bits, but thats all. As far as I can tell it was a bottom-up job i.e. done from below as there were a couple of lumps of RTV under the oil pump area stuck to the oil pan. The oil pan gasket that was reinstalled was a 4 piece (Sides cork and rubber in front/back). The rubber parts are stuck hard. Did the 460 use Nylon gears in 1986 ? The chain that's on it has some slop definitely. I was able to rotate the crank ~2 degrees and transfer slop from one side to the other completely. My guess is that if there were Nylon shards, it was got rid of in the previous oil pan / rear main seal job. Must not have been in a 4x4. You cannot get the pan out of a 4wd truck with the engine jacked up, it's gotta come out. They used plastic gears right up until EFI in 88. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 Must not have been in a 4x4. You cannot get the pan out of a 4wd truck with the engine jacked up, it's gotta come out. They used plastic gears right up until EFI in 88. Yeah it is from a 2WD truck... So, on a 4WD truck the pan can't come out even if you drop the pump ??? Thats crazy. BTW, here is my video on "Big Blue 2WD" doing that gnarly job... I won't do it again that way thanks to the bronco's subframe placement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Yeah it is from a 2WD truck... So, on a 4WD truck the pan can't come out even if you drop the pump ??? Thats crazy. BTW, here is my video on "Big Blue 2WD" doing that gnarly job... I won't do it again that way thanks to the bronco's subframe placement You can't GET TO the pump, or the rear sump pickup with the TTB in the way. You can easily do a timing set in situ, but you can't get the pan off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 You can't GET TO the pump, or the rear sump pickup with the TTB in the way. You can easily do a timing set in situ, but you can't get the pan off. Yikes! Good to know the timing cover comes off with the pan in place, thought pan coming off was a requirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Yikes! Good to know the timing cover comes off with the pan in place, thought pan coming off was a requirement. You just pull the radiator out and sit right there. A timing gasket set will come with two little cork "ears" and you cut off the pan gasket at the block with a razor. Stuff a rag around the crank gear so you don't drop a lot of garbage into the pan while you're trying to scrape the old gasket surface clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 You can't GET TO the pump, or the rear sump pickup with the TTB in the way. You can easily do a timing set in situ, but you can't get the pan off. By the way, I watched this video where the guy installs a straight-up timing set but can't get the dots to line up. What would cause this ? As far as what I was thinking, the job required getting the old timing set in TDC, where the Keyway and cam dot were not lined perfectly up, but position it such that the cam dot was where it needed to be... the crank keyway would be offset a bit clockwise in that situation.. before installing the new set, all I would need to do is rotate the crank keyway back to where both crank and cam were straight up. Looks like the guy didn't get the crank keyway back where it needed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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