viven44 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 It's anerobic. It cures because there is no air. (The plastic tube or bottle is inhibited) You can use primer P or T, but it's not really necessary. Got in the 3/8 NPT Tap and I think we are back to normal since it is larger than the 5/8-18 Tap I used yesterday.. I will be installing a water temp gauge in that spot. Thanks Gary for setting me and whoever will be reading this in the future Straight. “3/8” NPT, which is more like 5/8 really 5/8-18 straight Tap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Got in the 3/8 NPT Tap and I think we are back to normal since it is larger than the 5/8-18 Tap I used yesterday.. I will be installing a water temp gauge in that spot. Thanks Gary for setting me and whoever will be reading this in the future Straight. “3/8” NPT, which is more like 5/8 really 5/8-18 straight Tap Yes, you should be fine. I'd forgotten that the 5/8 tap is a bit smaller than the NPT, so you didn't make it too large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Yes, you should be fine. I'd forgotten that the 5/8 tap is a bit smaller than the NPT, so you didn't make it too large. Finished the intake today. The stud bolt approached worked like magic. The ARP bolts I bought unfortunately were not long enough for the front 2 bolts. And a few other locations only started threading after some of the bolts were in. The crush gasket I suppose kept things apart. Got everything torqued down to 30 ft lbs. I’ll re-torque them when things are at operating temperature. Once the water pump is installed I will do a coolant pressure test on the stand and look for leaks in the cylinders and oil pan. At about 15 PSI. While I’m waiting on the water pump figured I would go ahead and hook up the “metrology” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Finished the intake today. The stud bolt approached worked like magic. The ARP bolts I bought unfortunately were not long enough for the front 2 bolts. And a few other locations only started threading after some of the bolts were in. The crush gasket I suppose kept things apart. Got everything torqued down to 30 ft lbs. I’ll re-torque them when things are at operating temperature. Once the water pump is installed I will do a coolant pressure test on the stand and look for leaks in the cylinders and oil pan. At about 15 PSI. While I’m waiting on the water pump figured I would go ahead and hook up the “metrology” Nothing on the outside of the engine deserves ARP, except possibly the flywheel bolts, and for them I buy factory with the loctite already on them. I bought a complete stainless kit from The Bolt Locker on eBay for around $45. I had to get longer exhaust manifold bolts because their 429/460 kit is meant for headers. I did get stainless button heads when I installed my cast valve covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Finished the intake today. The stud bolt approached worked like magic. The ARP bolts I bought unfortunately were not long enough for the front 2 bolts. And a few other locations only started threading after some of the bolts were in. The crush gasket I suppose kept things apart. Got everything torqued down to 30 ft lbs. I’ll re-torque them when things are at operating temperature. Once the water pump is installed I will do a coolant pressure test on the stand and look for leaks in the cylinders and oil pan. At about 15 PSI. While I’m waiting on the water pump figured I would go ahead and hook up the “metrology” Glad things are going together nicely. How are you going to do the coolant pressure check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Nothing on the outside of the engine deserves ARP, except possibly the flywheel bolts, and for them I buy factory with the loctite already on them. I bought a complete stainless kit from The Bolt Locker on eBay for around $45. I had to get longer exhaust manifold bolts because their 429/460 kit is meant for headers. I did get stainless button heads when I installed my cast valve covers. It was the cheapest option to be honest. I paid about $35 for the set. The fact that they were 12 pt heads is preferable to me because I want them to be discernible in the future. I’ve loosened intake bolts myself trying to mount a throttle bracket or something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Glad things are going together nicely. How are you going to do the coolant pressure check? I’m planning to cap the heater hoses and then the water pump output using a 2” PVC cap. Then fill through the thermostat port. I’m going to pump the PSIs through the thermostat port, using a special adapter that came with the Maddox coolant pressure test kit from harbor freight. Then I’ll use a scope to look in the cylinders and the oil pan is still off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 It was the cheapest option to be honest. I paid about $35 for the set. The fact that they were 12 pt heads is preferable to me because I want them to be discernible in the future. I’ve loosened intake bolts myself trying to mount a throttle bracket or something else. 12pt to me means they'll just rust into round nubs sooner, but maybe you don't have these issues. I'm really surprised you can get a complete bolt kit, from pan to intake, timing housing, thermostat, water pump, exhaust and carb flange for anywhere close to $35, but hey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I’m planning to cap the heater hoses and then the water pump output using a 2” PVC cap. Then fill through the thermostat port. I’m going to pump the PSIs through the thermostat port, using a special adapter that came with the Maddox coolant pressure test kit from harbor freight. Then I’ll use a scope to look in the cylinders and the oil pan is still off. Interesting. You could pump up the pressure and then close a valve and watch the pressure. If it doesn't fall you don't have a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 12pt to me means they'll just rust into round nubs sooner, but maybe you don't have these issues. I'm really surprised you can get a complete bolt kit, from pan to intake, timing housing, thermostat, water pump, exhaust and carb flange for anywhere close to $35, but hey! No, I wish it was the complete set. It was just for the intake bolts. I just don't have any spares whatsoever, and in the future if I found a bolt or 2 that looked suspect, now I have a good inventory. And to be honest, I have never bought ARP before, and 12 pt has worked well for me in the past, as long as I use a 3/8 12 pt socket and not a 10mm. These bolts are honestly a bit of a sore point, not my happiest spend... I bought these bolts just to get past the shipping threshold. Thats how they get you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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