viven44 Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 The only problem with a shop crane/engine hoist is that it lowers in an arc, and not straight down. With a pan you only really have to seal the lifter valley. The manifold itself doesn't matter at the china walls, only at the ports. You also realize that their chemical recommendation reflects only wat was widely* available when it was written. I know that when "TRS" came out in GM dealers, it was immediately viewed a a problem solver by all mechanics, across the industry. Yes. This lifting method would work well with the stud approach previously discussed wherein the vertical descent would be controlled. Anyways, I think with 2 of us, I don't believe we would need it. If we use it, it would be to maybe do some last minute repositioning, etc. I think the method is certainly great to remove a cast iron manifold in-situ. I would not even attempt to install cast iron reaching over the fenders I was also thinking that the oil seal would be only below the pan. The valley pan metal "gasket" appears to have a crush design where it is protruding on both the head/intake side. Once torqued down it should flatten and form a good seal, minus areas with pits where a gasket would seal. Just hope I get good vacuum. I have inherited in the past a couple of intake jobs where the base vacuum was poor. Good point on recommendations being outdated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Yes. This lifting method would work well with the stud approach previously discussed wherein the vertical descent would be controlled. Anyways, I think with 2 of us, I don't believe we would need it. If we use it, it would be to maybe do some last minute repositioning, etc. I think the method is certainly great to remove a cast iron manifold in-situ. I would not even attempt to install cast iron reaching over the fenders I was also thinking that the oil seal would be only below the pan. The valley pan metal "gasket" appears to have a crush design where it is protruding on both the head/intake side. Once torqued down it should flatten and form a good seal, minus areas with pits where a gasket would seal. Just hope I get good vacuum. I have inherited in the past a couple of intake jobs where the base vacuum was poor. Good point on recommendations being outdated. Yes, crushing the little bead around each port is key. But, like only using graphite grease to seal the exhaust manifolds, it wasn't great, with factory fresh parts... I understand heat transfer. 💡 I also understand why these engines had such a bad reputation for leaks and cracked manifolds, even back in the day. Retortuing procedures, after X heat cycles are pretty critical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Yes, crushing the little bead around each port is key. But, like only using graphite grease to seal the exhaust manifolds, it wasn't great, with factory fresh parts... I understand heat transfer. 💡 I also understand why these engines had such a bad reputation for leaks and cracked manifolds, even back in the day. Retortuing procedures, after X heat cycles are pretty critical. Intake is still coming along, waiting on bolts but I decided to use the one of the plugs to maybe add a coolant bleeder or maybe a water temp gauge. I have the worst luck with internal hex head plugs. I always strip them. Had to use a 5/8-18 tap (needed for 3/8 MIP) with a special 37/64 drill bit ! Good luck finding that at the local hardware store. One of the times I don’t miss Amazon. I will be using PST going forward on all these fittings!! Thanks Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Intake is still coming along, waiting on bolts but I decided to use the one of the plugs to maybe add a coolant bleeder or maybe a water temp gauge. I have the worst luck with internal hex head plugs. I always strip them. Had to use a 5/8-18 tap (needed for 3/8 MIP) with a special 37/64 drill bit ! Good luck finding that at the local hardware store. One of the times I don’t miss Amazon. I will be using PST going forward on all these fittings!! Thanks Jim! You do realize that 5/8 tap is a straight and the NPT tap is tapered? So if you run the straight tap all the way through you'll take out the taper and the pipe fittings won't seal very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 You do realize that 5/8 tap is a straight and the NPT tap is tapered? So if you run the straight tap all the way through you'll take out the taper and the pipe fittings won't seal very well. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 You do realize that 5/8 tap is a straight and the NPT tap is tapered? So if you run the straight tap all the way through you'll take out the taper and the pipe fittings won't seal very well. Dang, well I need to stick to pipe fittings here with sealant. For some reason I thought the taper comes on the fitting itself and not the thread, but a lesson learnt. I did try a plug, and it does bottom out as expected after going 4-5 threads so maybe I didn't screw up too bad. Got lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 You do realize that 5/8 tap is a straight and the NPT tap is tapered? So if you run the straight tap all the way through you'll take out the taper and the pipe fittings won't seal very well. Also I've realized why i got lucky. 3/8-18 NPT tap's diameter is larger than 5/8-18, now it makes sense why my tap didn't need to do much at all. Most of the clean-up was done by the 37/64 bit which removed the leftover threads, Phew. Was confused big time because 3/8 is not >0.6 inches which is what I was measuring and I measured 18 threads so I pivoted to a 5/8-18 tap. Now I know the NPT chart is in its own realm. New thing learned today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Also I've realized why i got lucky. 3/8-18 NPT tap's diameter is larger than 5/8-18, now it makes sense why my tap didn't need to do much at all. Most of the clean-up was done by the 37/64 bit which removed the leftover threads, Phew. Was confused big time because 3/8 is not >0.6 inches which is what I was measuring and I measured 18 threads so I pivoted to a 5/8-18 tap. Now I know the NPT chart is in its own realm. New thing learned today. That PST will be doing yeoman's work in this case, but I'm pretty sure I will hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 That PST will be doing yeoman's work in this case, but I'm pretty sure I will hold. I think it will hold well. I got very lucky since I used a smaller tap than was needed!! PST is still my goto from here. It looks like PST would need a primer to cure, unless the mating surface is reactive like iron or brass.. Would like to know sometime how that works, the chemistry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 I think it will hold well. I got very lucky since I used a smaller tap than was needed!! PST is still my goto from here. It looks like PST would need a primer to cure, unless the mating surface is reactive like iron or brass.. Would like to know sometime how that works, the chemistry. It's anerobic. It cures because there is no air. (The plastic tube or bottle is inhibited) You can use primer P or T, but it's not really necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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