Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Managing to lower the incredibly heavy cast iron manifold straight down without letting* that turkey pan to budge is quite the challenge! Gary says to get two long 3/8 bolts cut the heads off and thread them in opposite corners the vertical holes in the heads Use them as guides. IDK, I went to aluminum in '89 and haven't looked back I've not done a cast iron manifold on a 460, but that trick works on a 351W - although you do have to make sure you lower the manifold "level" with respect to the engine. DAHIK. And since the 460 manifold is HEAVY, that might be a chore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Managing to lower the incredibly heavy cast iron manifold straight down without letting* that turkey pan to budge is quite the challenge! Gary says to get two long 3/8 bolts cut the heads off and thread them in opposite corners the vertical holes in the heads Use them as guides. IDK, I went to aluminum in '89 and haven't looked back Okay. I'm actually glad I did this today. I got this other splash pan gasket for free along with "Big Blue 2WD". I don't like the fact that it is so unwieldy and the front and rear metal parts are over the "china walls". If I do go the Aluminum route this gasket will provide me plenty of thin "block off" material to block the exhaust crossover.. So much for me wanting to keep EGR and keeping a stock distributor You can probably tell i'm looking for all the right excuses to justify going Aluminum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Okay. I'm actually glad I did this today. I got this other splash pan gasket for free along with "Big Blue 2WD". I don't like the fact that it is so unwieldy and the front and rear metal parts are over the "china walls". If I do go the Aluminum route this gasket will provide me plenty of thin "block off" material to block the exhaust crossover.. So much for me wanting to keep EGR and keeping a stock distributor You can probably tell i'm looking for all the right excuses to justify going Aluminum Purchase intake gaskets with the block off plates already adhered. You don't want it be juggling little pieces of tin* covered in slippery silicone when you're trying to get that intake down square. I should have said, above, that short of the squeezy cheese can of "The Right Stuff" I will go with the ultra Gray, front and back every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Purchase intake gaskets with the block off plates already adhered. You don't want it be juggling little pieces of tin* covered in slippery silicone when you're trying to get that intake down square. I should have said, above, that short of the squeezy cheese can of "The Right Stuff" I will go with the ultra Gray, front and back every day. Okay!! And around the coolant ports, would permatex #2 do well ? I've always thought a non-hardening sealant is required. Not sure if ultra-black and ultra-grey are considered non-hardening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Okay!! And around the coolant ports, would permatex #2 do well ? I've always thought a non-hardening sealant is required. Not sure if ultra-black and ultra-grey are considered non-hardening. I'm sure* #2 would be fine, but I always just use a light smear of whatever tube I have in my hand. I don't see intake gasket leaks... 🤨 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 I'm sure* #2 would be fine, but I always just use a light smear of whatever tube I have in my hand. I don't see intake gasket leaks... 🤨 About the block-off intake gasket, I don't believe a metal based block-off gasket is available. Edelbrock themselves supply one #7223 but its gasket material only at the block-off. I've read those don't last long and will burn through. I don't believe it would be too hard to device a metal block off from old valley pan material. It would be a lesser challenge than dealing with the heavy cast iron and that unwieldy metal gasket. https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-7223-GASKET/dp/B000CSQU7M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 About the block-off intake gasket, I don't believe a metal based block-off gasket is available. Edelbrock themselves supply one #7223 but its gasket material only at the block-off. I've read those don't last long and will burn through. I don't believe it would be too hard to device a metal block off from old valley pan material. It would be a lesser challenge than dealing with the heavy cast iron and that unwieldy metal gasket. https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-7223-GASKET/dp/B000CSQU7M You may be right. The AFR and Trick Flow ones all have SCJ ports. I use the blue Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal* gaskets myself, But I really need the floor of my plenum heated in winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 You may be right. The AFR and Trick Flow ones all have SCJ ports. I use the blue Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal* gaskets myself, But I really need the floor of my plenum heated in winter I haven't a 100% made up my mind yet on the block-off. But just for the heck of it, I carried the cast iron intake to the bathroom scale. Weighs about 55 lbs, but sure does feel heavier than that. That is still a lot of weight to be assembled onto the block for 1 person and get it all right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 I haven't a 100% made up my mind yet on the block-off. But just for the heck of it, I carried the cast iron intake to the bathroom scale. Weighs about 55 lbs, but sure does feel heavier than that. That is still a lot of weight to be assembled onto the block for 1 person and get it all right. Somewhat* more realistically, 35 lb... Try reaching over the fender, to do it in situ. It's not easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Somewhat* more realistically, 35 lb... Try reaching over the fender, to do it in situ. It's not easy! Ordering supplies now from summit.. and need to order fuel line. Either 5/16 or 3/8. Going back the fuel pump.. That is a primary concern for a Bronco indeed. The tank hangs almost above the halfway point of the differential. The goal is to have it as low and close to the tank as possible so the amount of time spent generating a vacuum is minimized and thereby reducing chance of a vapor lock. Supposedly angling up the pump by about 30 degrees also reduces chance of vapor lock. I am planning to mount it on a custom L bracket right beside the tank skid plate, and in front of the "pumpkin".... Question - will 5/16 or 3/8 line be preferable fuel pump (behind rearend) to carb... ? I think whats on the 78 bronco now is a 5/16 line for the 400 it came with, but i think the 86 460 had a 3/8 supply line if I am not mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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