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460 Smog Delete and Oil Cooler Delete for a 78 Bronco Swap


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I must have gone back and forth about 20 times since yesterday evening but I think I'm going to keep the cast iron.

Cast Iron Cons

- Weight

Cast Iron Pros

- Can use splash pan gasket

- Use EGR and be more readily emissions compliant for the future, if the Bronco later moves to a locality with emissions. I intend to retain all the smog pump hardware as well.

- No need to recurve the distributor. Earlier this week was discussion about how design should be such that parts are readily swappable by with off the shelf components. If re-curving was a need, a possible future owner would not know this.

Aluminum Pros

- 65 lb weight reduction

Aluminum Cons

- $400 !! Especially after talking about the double roller timing set and how much extra I get for just under $50, $400 seems like a lot for not a whole lot in return. If I would get the same performance improvement as with a timing set, I would consider it. Would the weight reduction alone provide that ?

- No EGR. The EGR Edelbrock intake is not available anymore. They must have stopped making it. If I were to spend that kind of money I want Edelbrock as I've always used their products and it would pair with my Edelbrock brand new carb I have already bought.

- No splash pan, and the intake cross-overs are to be blocked off. Can be done but it would be a bit cold blooded. Not a deal breaker.

If you keep 460 EGR be very sure to use the Motorcraft pink rubber egr spacer gasket.

It is for a very late carb application (in the F53 RV chassis (It has an E8TE part number..... I've posted it somewhere, and given away probably 8 of them, because I bought a 10 pack)

If you use a crap gasket it WILL blow out the passenger side.

And if you have stock vacuum lines it will cut them and the PCV tube in half just under the secondary vacuum pot.

DAMHIK

Bill will confirm!

But you're right. If one or the other, go for correct valve timing.

When you pull the water pump, closely inspect the backing plate for pitting.

FRPP have new ones for ~$35...

It's going to be in there for a LONG time, and you don't want to lose coolant into the sump.

(Gary's Huck was even missing this! His timing case was broken because of it)

Use copious amounts of PST on all fasteners through the timing case and water pump+backing plate.

Be careful of the convolute weep passages on the back of the timing case where the pump pushes into the engine.

Do NOT pack them with sealant.

They are your lifeline if a leak develops you will see it instead of going straight into the oil pan.

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If you keep 460 EGR be very sure to use the Motorcraft pink rubber egr spacer gasket.

It is for a very late carb application (in the F53 RV chassis (It has an E8TE part number..... I've posted it somewhere, and given away probably 8 of them, because I bought a 10 pack)

If you use a crap gasket it WILL blow out the passenger side.

And if you have stock vacuum lines it will cut them and the PCV tube in half just under the secondary vacuum pot.

DAMHIK

Bill will confirm!

But you're right. If one or the other, go for correct valve timing.

When you pull the water pump, closely inspect the backing plate for pitting.

FRPP have new ones for ~$35...

It's going to be in there for a LONG time, and you don't want to lose coolant into the sump.

(Gary's Huck was even missing this! His timing case was broken because of it)

Use copious amounts of PST on all fasteners through the timing case and water pump+backing plate.

Be careful of the convolute weep passages on the back of the timing case where the pump pushes into the engine.

Do NOT pack them with sealant.

They are your lifeline if a leak develops you will see it instead of going straight into the oil pan.

On the EGR Gasket, is that the one between the intake and the spacer ?

I have the one below which seems to be an OEM match. Unable to find the pink one you mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-60003-Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket/dp/B000C2E4TO

And what is PST? Thread sealant using gasket maker ? :nabble_smiley_blush:

 

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On the EGR Gasket, is that the one between the intake and the spacer ?

I have the one below which seems to be an OEM match. Unable to find the pink one you mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-60003-Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket/dp/B000C2E4TO

And what is PST? Thread sealant using gasket maker ? :nabble_smiley_blush:

Fel-pro is NOT OEM

I have posted the number and photos of the bag here and FTE.

I'll have to find it because I'm not near my parts stash now.

Loctite Pipe Sealant w/ Teflon

This is an anerobic meant for refineries and chemical plants.

It is NOT anything from the plumbing aisle!

There have been extensive discussions....

Gary could probably link them.

if you don't like breaking bolts off in the water pump and timing case I've found nothing better.

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Fel-pro is NOT OEM

I have posted the number and photos of the bag here and FTE.

I'll have to find it because I'm not near my parts stash now.

Loctite Pipe Sealant w/ Teflon

This is an anerobic meant for refineries and chemical plants.

It is NOT anything from the plumbing aisle!

There have been extensive discussions....

Gary could probably link them.

if you don't like breaking bolts off in the water pump and timing case I've found nothing better.

Thanks! I'll be sure to use that sealant.

Felpro is not OEM, but I meant OEM-style.

The gasket I bought, here's more info on it..

OEM / Interchange Numbers: D9TZ9447D, E5HZ9447B, E8TE9447AA, E8TZ9447A

 

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Thanks! I'll be sure to use that sealant.

Felpro is not OEM, but I meant OEM-style.

The gasket I bought, here's more info on it..

OEM / Interchange Numbers: D9TZ9447D, E5HZ9447B, E8TE9447AA, E8TZ9447A

Lower:

https://www.autopartsandstuff.com/Motorcraft--CG-536-B--Carburetor-Mounting-Gasket_p_48927.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275138048802

Upper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174487054818

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1341984-egr-spacer-gaskets.html

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Thanks! I'll be sure to use that sealant.

Felpro is not OEM, but I meant OEM-style.

The gasket I bought, here's more info on it..

OEM / Interchange Numbers: D9TZ9447D, E5HZ9447B, E8TE9447AA, E8TZ9447A

It's garbage

Trust me, it won't last.

Ask Bill

Or Gary.

Or any other 460 guy that has to keep replacing all their vacuum lines.

ETA

I've got to say, at least you seem to believe me.

A lot of people are incredulous, about a lot of things...

Learning to drive stick at 12 in a Ferrari.

Being run over by a tractor trailer. Lots of things..🙄

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Dang! I’ve been looking for these a while, every original truck i resuscitated in the past had that upper gasket that I got rid of and used a cheap aftermarket one. Thanks a lot :nabble_smiley_beam:

I believe the lower gasket I have is pretty much the same, but I’ll go ahead and get these as well.

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Dang! I’ve been looking for these a while, every original truck i resuscitated in the past had that upper gasket that I got rid of and used a cheap aftermarket one. Thanks a lot :nabble_smiley_beam:

I believe the lower gasket I have is pretty much the same, but I’ll go ahead and get these as well.

Is that Fel-pro one pink rubber?

I've never seen that before.

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Is that Fel-pro one pink rubber?

I've never seen that before.

The felpro one is not rubber, it’s got a metal framework with conventional carb gasket material on both sides.

Speaking of gaskets, I do not like this Fel Pro splash pan gasket at all, with its multi layer construction… it won’t conform well and doesn’t lay flat at all.. I can already predict “milkshakes”. Makes me want to go back to my Aluminum intake route… if this is what I have to deal with on a cast iron manifold. I don’t like these one bit!! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif

The metal part is so big it even overlaps over the china walls on the front and back.

5A9AD33C-9822-4F1E-8F5C-A7CCCF589C46.jpeg.3c59a5eb5865416bf4dcc4fc0fda2fa2.jpeg

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The felpro one is not rubber, it’s got a metal framework with conventional carb gasket material on both sides.

Speaking of gaskets, I do not like this Fel Pro splash pan gasket at all, with its multi layer construction… it won’t conform well and doesn’t lay flat at all.. I can already predict “milkshakes”. Makes me want to go back to my Aluminum intake route… if this is what I have to deal with on a cast iron manifold. I don’t like these one bit!! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

The metal part is so big it even overlaps over the china walls on the front and back.

Managing to lower the incredibly heavy cast iron manifold straight down without letting* that turkey pan to budge is quite the challenge!

Gary says to get two long 3/8 bolts cut the heads off and thread them in opposite corners the vertical holes in the heads

Use them as guides.

IDK, I went to aluminum in '89 and haven't looked back

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