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Conflicting Battery Test results


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While working on other things, I played with my battery analyzer this afternoon and got some conficting test results on my battery.

First, the battery is a 12/2017 Group 65 ValuePower made by Johnson Controls:

IMG_20240204_164627.jpg.c24e6a72aefcab38830b51b6c726b351.jpg

Initially it was failing the CCA test, but that's because like a moron I was entering the wrong CCA rating. Once I entered the correct value, it's saying all is well:

IMG_20240204_164235.jpg.c42dbf4bf43e4285efdc8477b8ce0dc9.jpg

But when I do a starting test, it's showing "excessive" voltage drop:

IMG_20240204_164353.thumb.jpg.39ba15cfdece3d3848dde731a0d7b2dd.jpg

FWIW I'm running a PMGR starter.

It usually starts fine, other than the cold snap a few weeks ago where it flat out wouldn't crank enough to start. But when it warmed up a few days later, it started no trouble... and I didn't charge it either :nabble_anim_confused:

It's a relatively old battery... purchased by the previous owner. Good unit though, being made by Johnson Controls.

That said, should I be looking for a new one soon given these results and observations?

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That looks like enough CCA. I'm sure you've checked the connections already, (negative to block, positive to starter solenoid)... maybe too much timing advance during crank. If the white wire on the duraspark 2 module isn't getting voltage, it won't do a timing retard during crank, maybe something to check.
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I would replace it.

Old batteries will start fine when conditions are good, but not when real cold or even when real hot.

Years ago I had a 68 C10, I was thinking this battery is awesome. Lasted a long time and always started the truck, it had a 307.

One day someone pulled out in front of me and I hit the brakes and the clutch but killed the engine, I think it got flooded and cranked for a bit then died.

Had to get a jump. The old guy that helped me asked about the battery, and I told him, he said to change it.

I miss that truck, not that engine!

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That looks like enough CCA. I'm sure you've checked the connections already, (negative to block, positive to starter solenoid)... maybe too much timing advance during crank. If the white wire on the duraspark 2 module isn't getting voltage, it won't do a timing retard during crank, maybe something to check.

No duraspark... this is an EEC-IV TFI setup. The power distribution wiring was redone about a year ago; part of it was removing the starter relay from the starter power path (direct lead to starter, secondary lead powers everything else to include the stater relay supply to the solenoid)

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I think you may have one cell that isn't up to snuff. Have you checked the water levels? And do you have a hygrometer so you can check the specific gravity? That might tell you if you do have a low cell and which one.

No I haven't. I keep forgetting these are technically serviceable.

I have a specific gravity tester for coolant but not for batteries.

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This is a good situation to use a battery charger with a battery recondition feature. I bought a HF Viking charger with the recondition feature and I tried that on my riding mower battery that's about 3 years old. Fully charged, it wouldn't even crank the engine over straight off the charger reading 13 volts. Ran the recondition process, let it sit 1.5 months through a couple of deep freezes and it cranked it over like it was summer time. My sister was complaining that her Tundra was cranking slow. I tested the cells with a hydrometer, it had 1 dead cell and another weak cell and tested about 50% of what the CCA and CA should be, this is a 2017 battery BTW. I ran the recondition feature for several hours before she had to go (it didn't even finish the process) and it brought the dead cell back to 100% and the weak cell was 100% as well. It's been several weeks now and it is cranking over like a champ.
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FWIW, what kind of alternator do you have?

I'm pretty sure you have mentioned the condition of your cables and IIRC the battery terminals.

If a cold battery will not crank it's time for a new one.

I'm REALLY surprised a group 65 doesn't have enough 'berries' to crank your PMGR.

Mine is 1000A/850 CCA

Gary has the results of my PMGR "test" here on the site. somewhere.

It is not that much draw.

 

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I would replace it.

Old batteries will start fine when conditions are good, but not when real cold or even when real hot.

Years ago I had a 68 C10, I was thinking this battery is awesome. Lasted a long time and always started the truck, it had a 307.

One day someone pulled out in front of me and I hit the brakes and the clutch but killed the engine, I think it got flooded and cranked for a bit then died.

Had to get a jump. The old guy that helped me asked about the battery, and I told him, he said to change it.

I miss that truck, not that engine!

307 was based on a Pontiac/Oldsmobile block right?

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FWIW, what kind of alternator do you have?

I'm pretty sure you have mentioned the condition of your cables and IIRC the battery terminals.

If a cold battery will not crank it's time for a new one.

I'm REALLY surprised a group 65 doesn't have enough 'berries' to crank your PMGR.

Mine is 1000A/850 CCA

Gary has the results of my PMGR "test" here on the site. somewhere.

It is not that much draw.

Why not try one of these:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fleet-heavy-duty/super-start-fleet-heavy-duty-battery-group-size-4dlt/ssbl/4dlt/v/a/5318/automotive-truck-1986-ford-f-250?q=8dlt&pos=0

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