Ifitaintbroke Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 I'm trying to wrap my head around how this is in any way advantageous over just using the proper Pollak valve, for $80 delivered? Yes, you need to splice their pigtail to the existing harness, but since the factory valve is over $400 and NLA I don't see a downside. The main reason I did this is to do away with the factory wiring, not the valve. This truck almost 40 years old, and the wiring was junk when new. This system has 5 times as many wires as necessary, and the wires themselves are (in my opinion) too small. Then consider the connector under the hood that are prone to corrosion. Basically I ended up doing this because nothing else worked. This came out of 2 YEARS of trying to fix the factory wiring. I got fed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 The only advantage I can think of is that the factory valves are known to cross-flow. My rear tank overflowed once because the valve was stuck such that front tank's return ran into rear return as the internal o-ring was shot (maybe?). This setup looks like it prevents that issue. I hope that is the case. If one valve malfunctions, it should break the circuit and the other valve will return to its resting position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 The only advantage I can think of is that the factory valves are known to cross-flow. My rear tank overflowed once because the valve was stuck such that front tank's return ran into rear return as the internal o-ring was shot (maybe?). This setup looks like it prevents that issue. The advantage is the single 14ga wire that operates it. And that's a good point of the relay, I might turn it down a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 The main reason I did this is to do away with the factory wiring, not the valve. This truck almost 40 years old, and the wiring was junk when new. This system has 5 times as many wires as necessary, and the wires themselves are (in my opinion) too small. Then consider the connector under the hood that are prone to corrosion. Basically I ended up doing this because nothing else worked. This came out of 2 YEARS of trying to fix the factory wiring. I got fed up. I can definitely understand being fed up but I have to disagree that the wiring sucked when new I bought my truck with less than 10k on it in '88 (because the guy wanted EFI) and I'm still on my original valves and wiring. I don't think inv ever had to touch it. (But I do have a mechanical pump, so only senders through my 6-port switch valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 I can definitely understand being fed up but I have to disagree that the wiring sucked when new I bought my truck with less than 10k on it in '88 (because the guy wanted EFI) and I'm still on my original valves and wiring. I don't think inv ever had to touch it. (But I do have a mechanical pump, so only senders through my 6-port switch valve. That's very impressive and surprising Jim. But, yours is the only one I've ever heard of that still works. I deal with these trucks (and the later ones) almost daily and I've never seen one with a working dual tank system. Most of them have been running on one tank for over 20 years. Idk, maybe it's just our humidity down here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 That's very impressive and surprising Jim. But, yours is the only one I've ever heard of that still works. I deal with these trucks (and the later ones) almost daily and I've never seen one with a working dual tank system. Most of them have been running on one tank for over 20 years. Idk, maybe it's just our humidity down here! Why would someone go to get parts If everything is functioning correctly? 'm kinda surprised with all the salt and mag chloride on the roads up here. But, as they say, don't mess with success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 Why would someone go to get parts If everything is functioning correctly? 'm kinda surprised with all the salt and mag chloride on the roads up here. But, as they say, don't mess with success. True. My truck originally was sold in Colorado, and has some evidence of slat on the frame, but thankfully the body is solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 True. My truck originally was sold in Colorado, and has some evidence of slat on the frame, but thankfully the body is solid. Rear unit is in. Clearance is tight, but I think it will work. Will definitely be careful putting the bed back on. IDK, this truck would probably look good as a flat bed!http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 Rear unit is in. Clearance is tight, but I think it will work. Will definitely be careful putting the bed back on. IDK, this truck would probably look good as a flat bed! Super clean install Bradley! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 Rear unit is in. Clearance is tight, but I think it will work. Will definitely be careful putting the bed back on. IDK, this truck would probably look good as a flat bed! Front unit is in and now the real fun begins: the harness. Truth be told, I enjoy making wiring harnesses. Most probably see it as tedious and boring, but to me it is peaceful, quiet, and difficult to hurt yourself while doing. (Unlike removing that 18 horse B & S. I still have a big scar from that.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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