viven44 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 That's nice! I might get 2 of those and mount them to the floorpan. Where did they go in a Bronco, originally? Best I can find is that they are under the drivers seat. The floorpan of the early bronco was probably a different animal altogether. I think it would be best to make it your own on the bullnose. While you are at it, I would also install a 3 way toggle switch right by the valve to switch the sending unit. The switch should route to into the selector valve harness right below it to switch between front and rear sending units. If you come up with something that works well, I'll copy it. My setup while requiring crawling has given me peace of mind. I still have the Pollak valve in mind very much, on a future truck or future timeframe on this truck I would consider it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 That's nice! I might get 2 of those and mount them to the floorpan. Where did they go in a Bronco, originally? In the front of the seat riser, right below the driver's seat. This isn't a great picture. It's looking in the driver's door at the transfer case shift levers sticking up out of the side of the trans tunnel. The tank switching valve is the silver handle on the brass stem on the right side of the picture. Above that you're seeing the front of the driver's seat. For what it's worth, it's a simple ball valve. You turn it 90° to go from one tank to the other. I think the stock valve had stops so it only turned 90°, but this replacement will turn a full 360°. If it's not pointed pretty close to one of the two selection points it shuts both tanks off. I suppose this could be used as a theft deterrent, but mostly it's been a way to make it run out of gas with two full tanks when I bump it with my foot. (that's only happened twice) https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123296/DSC_3808.jpg If you missed it I posted a picture of the valve in my '71 Bronco on the previous page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 If you missed it I posted a picture of the valve in my '71 Bronco on the previous page Doh! I should have said senders Stock, they all come up to the dash ground by the radio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 That's nice! I might get 2 of those and mount them to the floorpan. Where did they go in a Bronco, originally? In the front of the seat riser, right below the driver's seat. This isn't a great picture. It's looking in the driver's door at the transfer case shift levers sticking up out of the side of the trans tunnel. The tank switching valve is the silver handle on the brass stem on the right side of the picture. Above that you're seeing the front of the driver's seat. For what it's worth, it's a simple ball valve. You turn it 90° to go from one tank to the other. I think the stock valve had stops so it only turned 90°, but this replacement will turn a full 360°. If it's not pointed pretty close to one of the two selection points it shuts both tanks off. I suppose this could be used as a theft deterrent, but mostly it's been a way to make it run out of gas with two full tanks when I bump it with my foot. (that's only happened twice) https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n123296/DSC_3808.jpg Ooh that twin stick setup looks gooooood! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrl883 Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Ready for the zombie apocalypse??? Some setups have the senders switched at the actual switch in the climate control. You could find that p/n and just run the wires..... 💡 That's how my '85 was. The switching valve had ONE wire to it. It was a simple spring loaded solenoid valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted March 23 Author Share Posted March 23 Here is my setup: The only components needed for this setup is 2 Standard FV-1 fuel valves, a 5 pin Bosch-style relay, and 1 wire. Other than that 1 wire, this setup uses only factory wiring. No need to rewire or open up the main harness. The factory switch is retained, and, AFAIK, any variant can be used. I'll try to find my diagram of it, as the pictures don't explain how it works. For now, I'll try to explain it simply. The connector from the fuel tank selector switch in the cab is disconnected and set aside. I taped mine up and ran a separate switched power wire. The switch is then used as an "on off" type switch. Mine is a 6 pin, but only 2 will be used. I set mine up so that when the switch is set to "rear" continuity is broken. This sets the rear as the default tank in case of a malfunction. The front could be used in the same fashion. The power wire goes into the switch, via a 1/4 inch terminal, and back "out" the same way. You just have to figure out which pins to use. The power wire is then routed underneath the truck to the fuel valves and relay. It goes to the relay's switching terminal, and then to the fuel valves via the ground pin on the relay. The valves are connected by a wire and are self-grounding so no other wire are required for this setup to work as far as physically switching the tanks. I hope I'm explaining this well and not being confusing! When I say in and out I mean like you would see in a schematic. I'll have to draw one up to make this easier. I'm out of time right now so, but you get the gist of it. I'll write up the gauge side of this later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Here is my setup: The only components needed for this setup is 2 Standard FV-1 fuel valves, a 5 pin Bosch-style relay, and 1 wire. Other than that 1 wire, this setup uses only factory wiring. No need to rewire or open up the main harness. The factory switch is retained, and, AFAIK, any variant can be used. I'll try to find my diagram of it, as the pictures don't explain how it works. For now, I'll try to explain it simply. The connector from the fuel tank selector switch in the cab is disconnected and set aside. I taped mine up and ran a separate switched power wire. The switch is then used as an "on off" type switch. Mine is a 6 pin, but only 2 will be used. I set mine up so that when the switch is set to "rear" continuity is broken. This sets the rear as the default tank in case of a malfunction. The front could be used in the same fashion. The power wire goes into the switch, via a 1/4 inch terminal, and back "out" the same way. You just have to figure out which pins to use. The power wire is then routed underneath the truck to the fuel valves and relay. It goes to the relay's switching terminal, and then to the fuel valves via the ground pin on the relay. The valves are connected by a wire and are self-grounding so no other wire are required for this setup to work as far as physically switching the tanks. I hope I'm explaining this well and not being confusing! When I say in and out I mean like you would see in a schematic. I'll have to draw one up to make this easier. I'm out of time right now so, but you get the gist of it. I'll write up the gauge side of this later. I'm trying to wrap my head around how this is in any way advantageous over just using the proper Pollak valve, for $80 delivered? Yes, you need to splice their pigtail to the existing harness, but since the factory valve is over $400 and NLA I don't see a downside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Here is my setup: The only components needed for this setup is 2 Standard FV-1 fuel valves, a 5 pin Bosch-style relay, and 1 wire. Other than that 1 wire, this setup uses only factory wiring. No need to rewire or open up the main harness. The factory switch is retained, and, AFAIK, any variant can be used. I'll try to find my diagram of it, as the pictures don't explain how it works. For now, I'll try to explain it simply. The connector from the fuel tank selector switch in the cab is disconnected and set aside. I taped mine up and ran a separate switched power wire. The switch is then used as an "on off" type switch. Mine is a 6 pin, but only 2 will be used. I set mine up so that when the switch is set to "rear" continuity is broken. This sets the rear as the default tank in case of a malfunction. The front could be used in the same fashion. The power wire goes into the switch, via a 1/4 inch terminal, and back "out" the same way. You just have to figure out which pins to use. The power wire is then routed underneath the truck to the fuel valves and relay. It goes to the relay's switching terminal, and then to the fuel valves via the ground pin on the relay. The valves are connected by a wire and are self-grounding so no other wire are required for this setup to work as far as physically switching the tanks. I hope I'm explaining this well and not being confusing! When I say in and out I mean like you would see in a schematic. I'll have to draw one up to make this easier. I'm out of time right now so, but you get the gist of it. I'll write up the gauge side of this later. Really professional installation!!! Well done. If I had to nitpick something, it would be that the relay should be sloped down just a hair. Just in case moisture accumulates inside. It may be sloping down already but can't see it well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 I'm trying to wrap my head around how this is in any way advantageous over just using the proper Pollak valve, for $80 delivered? Yes, you need to splice their pigtail to the existing harness, but since the factory valve is over $400 and NLA I don't see a downside. The only advantage I can think of is that the factory valves are known to cross-flow. My rear tank overflowed once because the valve was stuck such that front tank's return ran into rear return as the internal o-ring was shot (maybe?). This setup looks like it prevents that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 The only advantage I can think of is that the factory valves are known to cross-flow. My rear tank overflowed once because the valve was stuck such that front tank's return ran into rear return as the internal o-ring was shot (maybe?). This setup looks like it prevents that issue. I haven't had a problem with any replacement Pollak valve, diesel or gas. (though they were the ones that made the original valves for the Big Three) I haven't used one recently and don't recall when SMP bought them out. Maybe the newer ones are not as good (China) 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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