Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Coolant Testing With A Multimeter


Recommended Posts

Never even thought it was possible!

:nabble_smiley_what:

I'm going to look into this. it does seem to have some validity in theory as electrolysis is capable of generating a voltage. becoming a battery of sorts. grounding seems to be the big potential question. is the coolant in the block not grounding to the block?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to look into this. it does seem to have some validity in theory as electrolysis is capable of generating a voltage. becoming a battery of sorts. grounding seems to be the big potential question. is the coolant in the block not grounding to the block?

Please let us know what you find, Mat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the coolant in the block not grounding to the block?

I think the theory is that rubber hoses and plastic tanks isolate the radiator and heater core from the truck as a whole.

People make too much of this IMHO

There's not much potential there and it could be eliminated by a single strand of wire as fine as a hair.

(see my response to Bradley's "idea" of annular boosters, or Gary fretting about where to monitor voltage)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is the coolant in the block not grounding to the block?

I think the theory is that rubber hoses and plastic tanks isolate the radiator and heater core from the truck as a whole.

People make too much of this IMHO

There's not much potential there and it could be eliminated by a single strand of wire as fine as a hair.

(see my response to Bradley's "idea" of annular boosters, or Gary fretting about where to monitor voltage)

Interesting story from one of my coworkers who used to be a Ford dealership mechanic: They had this truck that kept going through heater cores, and they couldn't figure out why. An engineer who happened to be there looked at it, and stuck a voltmeter into the coolant. Read 1v. They flushed the system, and used distilled water(which I would think they should have done in the first place) and the truck was fine after that. That's what I was told anyway...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting story from one of my coworkers who used to be a Ford dealership mechanic: They had this truck that kept going through heater cores, and they couldn't figure out why. An engineer who happened to be there looked at it, and stuck a voltmeter into the coolant. Read 1v. They flushed the system, and used distilled water(which I would think they should have done in the first place) and the truck was fine after that. That's what I was told anyway...

this sounds plausible and I was going to run a couple tests in the shop today, but I got distracted by one of the resurrections.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this sounds plausible and I was going to run a couple tests in the shop today, but I got distracted by one of the resurrections.

I, too, was going to run some tests today but didn't. I have relatively new coolant in Big Blue, but that in Blue is quite old. Better test and see what I can find. And I'll do it with three different DVMs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I, too, was going to run some tests today but didn't. I have relatively new coolant in Big Blue, but that in Blue is quite old. Better test and see what I can find. And I'll do it with three different DVMs.

Yeah, I've done this over the years. Seems like a pretty good test. I've tested the old IAT green coolants that I had a surplus of, and I had them go to .6 volts within 2 years. The G-05 coolant I have in all but one of my vehicles (it's G-05 also but dyed red for MoPaR use) and the older the coolant the higher the voltage was. A few months ago, I put new coolant hoses on my truck, I had .3 volts at highest before (3-year-old G-05) I replaced the coolant I drained with fresh and didn't bother flushing the rest and it went down to like .1 volts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting story from one of my coworkers who used to be a Ford dealership mechanic: They had this truck that kept going through heater cores, and they couldn't figure out why. An engineer who happened to be there looked at it, and stuck a voltmeter into the coolant. Read 1v. They flushed the system, and used distilled water(which I would think they should have done in the first place) and the truck was fine after that. That's what I was told anyway...

Ford had a big problem losing heater cores out of the Crown Victoria/ grand marquis/ town cars for a long time because of the alternator grounding through the coolant when the lower alternator bolts would become corroded between the bolt threads and alternator case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...