Gary Lewis Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Shaun - Please check these out: Documetation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Shift Levers Documentation/Transfer Cases and then the Linkage tab followed by the Shift Lever Pictures tab. I'm happy to edit any of it, add more pics or descriptions, etc. Thanks Gary! I'm gonna send you the photo of all the shift levers together in an email so you can post it with better resolution (if Nabble allows that). Since the documentation part isn't on Nabble I was able to put your higher-res picture in. See what you think: Documetation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Shift Levers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85pig Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Rangers are really useful vehicles, at a size that's not as awkward as my 250 is in some situations. It's a shame there are almost none left on the roads up here. I'm fortunate to have two, with one of them only having 70,000 miles. Even down here, most of them are pretty beat up by now since the last of the small Rangers rolled off the assembly line 13 years ago. Good condition versions with less than 100k are going for $12k and above still. I'd love to have a ZF5, but the cost of a rebuild makes the T18/T19 much more attractive. I've read that it's a difficult rebuild with some specialized tools, so not going to attempt to tackle that myself. Interesting info on the T19 shifter differences. That's one of my biggest reasons for not going ZF5 either. They're also prone to cracking just like the T19 bellhousings, and some people refer to them as glass transmissions. You would be surprised how many differences there are in 1980-1987 manual transmission AND transfer case shifters. I attempted to map them out once, but still ended up finding even more versions I didn't know about. Below are the most common, but there's different shift levers for all of the 4-speed overdrive transmissions, bolt-on transfer case levers, different curves, etc. Here's two different transfer case lever bends. Left one is 1980- early 1982 due to threaded shift knob, but this curve went through 1986. Right one is late 1982 - 1986 with a splined knob, but this curve was also used on 1980 - early 1982 with threads. 1980-1982 NP435 Transmission Shift Lever on top (1980-early 1982 have threaded shift knobs, 82-86 have splined shift knobs) 1983-1987 T-18/T-19 Transmission Shift Lever on bottom (This one is for a T19) I'm wanting to eventually swap my T18 for a T19, the transmission protesting whenever I want to use first is annoying. Haven't heard of the T19 bellhousing issue, and I'm 99% sure my T18 uses the same (or compatible) bell? A local differential guy told me the Mazda M5OD is really a pretty good trans behind the 300, especially running 3.70/3.73 gears, so that might be an option. My biggest beefs with either the ZF5 or M5OD is the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Crazy all of the different variations in shifters. Seems like the transfer case stick would be pretty much the same throughout, with only differences as to where/how they mount depending one transmission and case model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 I'm wanting to eventually swap my T18 for a T19, the transmission protesting whenever I want to use first is annoying. Haven't heard of the T19 bellhousing issue, and I'm 99% sure my T18 uses the same (or compatible) bell? A local differential guy told me the Mazda M5OD is really a pretty good trans behind the 300, especially running 3.70/3.73 gears, so that might be an option. My biggest beefs with either the ZF5 or M5OD is the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Crazy all of the different variations in shifters. Seems like the transfer case stick would be pretty much the same throughout, with only differences as to where/how they mount depending one transmission and case model. Looks good Gary, thanks! I'm wanting to eventually swap my T18 for a T19, the transmission protesting whenever I want to use first is annoying. Haven't heard of the T19 bellhousing issue, and I'm 99% sure my T18 uses the same (or compatible) bell? A local differential guy told me the Mazda M5OD is really a pretty good trans behind the 300, especially running 3.70/3.73 gears, so that might be an option. My biggest beefs with either the ZF5 or M5OD is the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Crazy all of the different variations in shifters. Seems like the transfer case stick would be pretty much the same throughout, with only differences as to where/how they mount depending one transmission and case model. The bellhousing issue is mainly related to the slave cylinder mount on big block and diesel bellhousings (T19 was only available behind BB and Diesels). Any sort of clutch issue that causes more pressure to be on this area will crack it, and that's why they're prone to cracking as they're just aluminum and not the beefiest in that area. I haven't heard of this being an issue on the small block bellhousings, as the slave cylinder mounts a different way. The M5OD is a good trans as I have the R1 version in my daily driver Ranger. The downfall as you mentioned is the internal slave cylinder. You can go through ten of them before you find one that doesn't leak fluid or have an entrance for air, and they're not fun to replace nor bleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85pig Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Looks good Gary, thanks! I'm wanting to eventually swap my T18 for a T19, the transmission protesting whenever I want to use first is annoying. Haven't heard of the T19 bellhousing issue, and I'm 99% sure my T18 uses the same (or compatible) bell? A local differential guy told me the Mazda M5OD is really a pretty good trans behind the 300, especially running 3.70/3.73 gears, so that might be an option. My biggest beefs with either the ZF5 or M5OD is the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Crazy all of the different variations in shifters. Seems like the transfer case stick would be pretty much the same throughout, with only differences as to where/how they mount depending one transmission and case model. The bellhousing issue is mainly related to the slave cylinder mount on big block and diesel bellhousings (T19 was only available behind BB and Diesels). Any sort of clutch issue that causes more pressure to be on this area will crack it, and that's why they're prone to cracking as they're just aluminum and not the beefiest in that area. I haven't heard of this being an issue on the small block bellhousings, as the slave cylinder mounts a different way. The M5OD is a good trans as I have the R1 version in my daily driver Ranger. The downfall as you mentioned is the internal slave cylinder. You can go through ten of them before you find one that doesn't leak fluid or have an entrance for air, and they're not fun to replace nor bleed. I still need to relieve Gary of his old T19, should (eventually) be a direct swap for my T18 - which replaced a T170 OD unit. Looking at pics, definitely different mounting for the slave between the "big" T19 and SB T18. I reused my transfer case shifter from the T170/208 case; I know the t-case adapter was different between the 170 and T18, but I believe mounted up similar enough that it all went together with little drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 I still need to relieve Gary of his old T19, should (eventually) be a direct swap for my T18 - which replaced a T170 OD unit. Looking at pics, definitely different mounting for the slave between the "big" T19 and SB T18. I reused my transfer case shifter from the T170/208 case; I know the t-case adapter was different between the 170 and T18, but I believe mounted up similar enough that it all went together with little drama. No hurry. My T19 isn't going any place - especially today at 3F and snow. Don't think I've ever seen snow at this temp nor snow that doesn't melt whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 No hurry. My T19 isn't going any place - especially today at 3F and snow. Don't think I've ever seen snow at this temp nor snow that doesn't melt whatsoever. I did end up ordering a pack of 3/8-16 to 3/8-24 studs that should be here soon. I also cut the previous attempt at threads off the lever, so I can tap into the thicker walls of the shift lever that haven't been ground on. It looks like this should work out well, and I'll decide at some point whether I want to weld the stud in or just leave it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I did end up ordering a pack of 3/8-16 to 3/8-24 studs It looks like this should work out well, and I'll decide at some point whether I want to weld the stud in or just leave it alone. Nice! Progress is Good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I did end up ordering a pack of 3/8-16 to 3/8-24 studs It looks like this should work out well, and I'll decide at some point whether I want to weld the stud in or just leave it alone. Nice! Progress is Good! I think that plan is going to work nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I think that plan is going to work nicely. I've been impressed with the new orange loctite. It is said to be as 'strong' as red without the need for heating to 400° for removal. Either of these is a whole lot less permanent that welding, if you choose to change your mind down the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I've been impressed with the new orange loctite. It is said to be as 'strong' as red without the need for heating to 400° for removal. Either of these is a whole lot less permanent that welding, if you choose to change your mind down the line. I've not used orange enough to know for sure, but orange on the threads to the shifter and blue on the knob would be my first thought. You could get it off if needed, maybe with pliers but who cares if you have several more spare? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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