salans7 Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 I've not used orange enough to know for sure, but orange on the threads to the shifter and blue on the knob would be my first thought. You could get it off if needed, maybe with pliers but who cares if you have several more spare? I'll have to look into the orange; I wasn't even aware of it. The knob will have a jam nut, so is blue thread locker really necessary? I run a jam nut on my Ranger and it's never been an issue. And I drive that truck way more than I'll ever drive this F350. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 I'll have to look into the orange; I wasn't even aware of it. The knob will have a jam nut, so is blue thread locker really necessary? I run a jam nut on my Ranger and it's never been an issue. And I drive that truck way more than I'll ever drive this F350. I wouldn't. But I probably would use something like orange gel or the old fashioned 6xx series bearing & sleeve mount products to hold the stud in the stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I'm wanting to eventually swap my T18 for a T19, the transmission protesting whenever I want to use first is annoying. Haven't heard of the T19 bellhousing issue, and I'm 99% sure my T18 uses the same (or compatible) bell? A local differential guy told me the Mazda M5OD is really a pretty good trans behind the 300, especially running 3.70/3.73 gears, so that might be an option. My biggest beefs with either the ZF5 or M5OD is the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. Crazy all of the different variations in shifters. Seems like the transfer case stick would be pretty much the same throughout, with only differences as to where/how they mount depending one transmission and case model. A ZF5 uses an external slave, in fact, the same as on our trucks. It literally just pops right on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 A ZF5 uses an external slave, in fact, the same as on our trucks. It literally just pops right on. Since we're on the topic of T19 shifters, I recently came across a pretty good picture of what the "stub" looks like on the later two-piece shift levers. These plastic (Nylon?) inserts often become brittle, and the shift lever may come apart. This is what I believe happened to the original one from my low-mileage T19. A ZF5 uses an external slave, in fact, the same as on our trucks. It literally just pops right on. Unfortunately the small block versions use an internal slave, which makes them no better than a Mazda, and they're likely harder to find than the Mazda M5R2. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Unfortunately the small block versions use an internal slave, which makes them no better than a Mazda, and they're likely harder to find than the Mazda M5R2. They are WAY harder to find than a Mazda box! 4x4 doubly so, up here where winter happens. I have one for my buddy with a Flareside that needs welding because the apes at the yard "missed" a bolt before trying to yank it out with the yard crane. Morons ...... 😡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85pig Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Unfortunately the small block versions use an internal slave, which makes them no better than a Mazda, and they're likely harder to find than the Mazda M5R2. They are WAY harder to find than a Mazda box! 4x4 doubly so, up here where winter happens. I have one for my buddy with a Flareside that needs welding because the apes at the yard "missed" a bolt before trying to yank it out with the yard crane. Morons ...... 😡 I know of two SBF ZF5s for sale locally at this time, but the prices for used small block gearboxes that I've seen is obscene. I've read of their issues, so I'd have trust problems throwing a used ZF in my truck (not so much with one of the Borg-Warners or New Process boxes). And then the price of having one rebuilt - I can buy a WHOLE lotta gas when you add up the initial cash outlay combined with the rebuild. I'd still like to stumble onto one cheap one day. A cheap core might tempt me to try a DIY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I know of two SBF ZF5s for sale locally at this time, but the prices for used small block gearboxes that I've seen is obscene. I've read of their issues, so I'd have trust problems throwing a used ZF in my truck (not so much with one of the Borg-Warners or New Process boxes). And then the price of having one rebuilt - I can buy a WHOLE lotta gas when you add up the initial cash outlay combined with the rebuild. I'd still like to stumble onto one cheap one day. A cheap core might tempt me to try a DIY. I lucked out and got my 4x4 Zf from a muffler shop that parted out it's completely destroyed plow truck. ($100!!!) I had plans to rebuild it but when I snapped the input off my T-19 I threw it in there and changed out the strawberry milkshake. That was almost exactly 13 years ago and aside from rollover rattle at idle it keeps plugging away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 I lucked out and got my 4x4 Zf from a muffler shop that parted out it's completely destroyed plow truck. ($100!!!) I had plans to rebuild it but when I snapped the input off my T-19 I threw it in there and changed out the strawberry milkshake. That was almost exactly 13 years ago and aside from rollover rattle at idle it keeps plugging away. Well my 3/8-16 to 3/8-24 studs finally arrived, and it looks like this is going to work out nicely. I did buy a box of 10 studs, so I might do my 1987 handle as well, although it hasn't been mangled like the one I'm working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Well my 3/8-16 to 3/8-24 studs finally arrived, and it looks like this is going to work out nicely. I did buy a box of 10 studs, so I might do my 1987 handle as well, although it hasn't been mangled like the one I'm working on. Yippee! But are you going to run the stud farther in, cut it off, or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Yippee! But are you going to run the stud farther in, cut it off, or? The picture was taken with the stud resting against the shift lever, but has not been threaded into the lever as I haven't drilled the lever out to size. Once I do, the only thing that will be visible is the small center section of the stud. The studs I ordered are less than an inch on the 3/8-16 side so I'm not having to cut too far down into the lever and also so I don't have to cut the studs down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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