T19 Shift Lever/Rail Woes

[JimJam300]

How about just using a 3/8-24 bolt and cutting the head off? Or, better yet, a 3/8-24 set screw. These from Amazon are pricey, but surely they can be found elsewhere for less in smaller quantities.

McMaster-Carr has these. 3/8-16 on one side, 3/8-24 on the other. If it works for you I think I'm gonna do this on mine so I don't lose any length when I convert to a threaded knob.

My T19 is supposedly from a 1985 F250, double-bend shifter with splined knob. The slot for the shifter does not have that pin your 1987 has, and I haven't seen it in the small parts kit I bought. I also have a quite a bit of shifter slop with a fully rebuilt lower and untouched upper, but I couldn't tell you the length. I would also consider the health of the shift forks in determining which upper assembly to use, One of my forks has uneven wear and I backed out of replacing it once I learned the procedure was potentially out of my depth, or my arsenal of tools, I don't remember. It seems weird that the 1987 requires doubling back to shift into reverse, that would annoy the crap out of me.

My transmission is still out of my truck if you want me to take some comparison photos.

[ArdWrknTrk]

How about just using a 3/8-24 bolt and cutting the head off? Or, better yet, a 3/8-24 set screw. These from Amazon are pricey, but surely they can be found elsewhere for less in smaller quantities.

Because you can get a UNC-UNF stud from any auto parts store through Dorman for $2.49?

Because 5/16 is the tap drill size for 3/8-16 instead of some odd letter size?

Because 99% of the people in this ONE country will have a UNC 3/8-16 tap, but not some oddball size 3/8-24?

Would you like more?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Because you can get a UNC-UNF stud from any auto parts store through Dorman for $2.49?

Because 5/16 is the tap drill size for 3/8-16 instead of some odd letter size?

Because 99% of the people in this ONE country will have a UNC 3/8-16 tap, but not some oddball size 3/8-24?

Would you like more?

You win.

[salans7]

McMaster-Carr has these. 3/8-16 on one side, 3/8-24 on the other. If it works for you I think I'm gonna do this on mine so I don't lose any length when I convert to a threaded knob.

My T19 is supposedly from a 1985 F250, double-bend shifter with splined knob. The slot for the shifter does not have that pin your 1987 has, and I haven't seen it in the small parts kit I bought. I also have a quite a bit of shifter slop with a fully rebuilt lower and untouched upper, but I couldn't tell you the length. I would also consider the health of the shift forks in determining which upper assembly to use, One of my forks has uneven wear and I backed out of replacing it once I learned the procedure was potentially out of my depth, or my arsenal of tools, I don't remember. It seems weird that the 1987 requires doubling back to shift into reverse, that would annoy the crap out of me.

My transmission is still out of my truck if you want me to take some comparison photos.

I appreciate the insight and I'm glad I'm not the only one contemplating this. It's hard to tell, but it didn't look like there was even a spot for the detent pin in my spare T19, which is why I assumed it never came with it. 1987 was a weird one-year wonder for shift levers so it doesn't surprise me.

Luckily for me, my daily driver Ranger has the reverse lockout feature, so it's something I'm used to so won't be bad in my F350 if I'm running the 1987 T19.

 

[salans7]

How about just using a 3/8-24 bolt and cutting the head off? Or, better yet, a 3/8-24 set screw.

I would love to have something that is 3/8-24 on both sides, with a small shoulder in the center so that I could weld the center of the "stud" to the shift lever for added strength. But some form of gorilla snot will lock the stud in too, so no real need to weld.

[ArdWrknTrk]

McMaster-Carr has these. 3/8-16 on one side, 3/8-24 on the other. If it works for you I think I'm gonna do this on mine so I don't lose any length when I convert to a threaded knob.

My T19 is supposedly from a 1985 F250, double-bend shifter with splined knob. The slot for the shifter does not have that pin your 1987 has, and I haven't seen it in the small parts kit I bought. I also have a quite a bit of shifter slop with a fully rebuilt lower and untouched upper, but I couldn't tell you the length. I would also consider the health of the shift forks in determining which upper assembly to use, One of my forks has uneven wear and I backed out of replacing it once I learned the procedure was potentially out of my depth, or my arsenal of tools, I don't remember. It seems weird that the 1987 requires doubling back to shift into reverse, that would annoy the crap out of me.

My transmission is still out of my truck if you want me to take some comparison photos.

I appreciate the insight and I'm glad I'm not the only one contemplating this. It's hard to tell, but it didn't look like there was even a spot for the detent pin in my spare T19, which is why I assumed it never came with it. 1987 was a weird one-year wonder for shift levers so it doesn't surprise me.

Luckily for me, my daily driver Ranger has the reverse lockout feature, so it's something I'm used to so won't be bad in my F350 if I'm running the 1987 T19.

I've owned my '87 since '88 and never noticed a reverse lockout in the T-19?

That gearbox snapped the input winter of 2011.

The Zf overdrive really makes a difference with 4.10' s on the highway.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've owned my '87 since '88 and never noticed a reverse lockout in the T-19?

That gearbox snapped the input winter of 2011.

The Zf overdrive really makes a difference with 4.10' s on the highway.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/performance/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-header-bolts---studs/1ae38bae6636/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675070

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675523

There's more..

[salans7]

I've owned my '87 since '88 and never noticed a reverse lockout in the T-19?

That gearbox snapped the input winter of 2011.

The Zf overdrive really makes a difference with 4.10' s on the highway.

Interesting. I definitely can't just throw this trans into reverse. I have to shake it and then put it into reverse, just like my Ranger. Does the ZF have a lockout?

That's exactly why I jumped on the spare T19 when it was cheap and down the street. May not be able to find one locally when I need it. I just wish it came with a bellhousing because we all know what happens to those, and often.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/performance/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-header-bolts---studs/1ae38bae6636/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675070

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675523

There's more..

You beat me to the searching. Thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've owned my '87 since '88 and never noticed a reverse lockout in the T-19?

That gearbox snapped the input winter of 2011.

The Zf overdrive really makes a difference with 4.10' s on the highway.

Interesting. I definitely can't just throw this trans into reverse. I have to shake it and then put it into reverse, just like my Ranger. Does the ZF have a lockout?

That's exactly why I jumped on the spare T19 when it was cheap and down the street. May not be able to find one locally when I need it. I just wish it came with a bellhousing because we all know what happens to those, and often.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/performance/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-header-bolts---studs/1ae38bae6636/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675070

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-autograde/dorman-autograde-3-8-16-3-8-24-inch-thread-double-end-stud/dag0/675523

There's more..

You beat me to the searching. Thanks!

. I hope it helps.

I checked yesterday, before I opened my mouth and ended up wrong.

I figured one short and another long would get you on the right track.

I never thought about having to wiggle my T-19 into reverse.

If I did it had become so inate I literally forgot about it.

The Zf-5 pulls straight back into reverse.

Thankfully mine has not worn so bad that it wants to pop out (as I hear so many do)

[salans7]

. I hope it helps.

I checked yesterday, before I opened my mouth and ended up wrong.

I figured one short and another long would get you on the right track.

I never thought about having to wiggle my T-19 into reverse.

If I did it had become so inate I literally forgot about it.

The Zf-5 pulls straight back into reverse.

Thankfully mine has not worn so bad that it wants to pop out (as I hear so many do)

If I intended to drive this truck more often or for farther distances cross country, I would have gone ZF5 and have even had multiple chances to pick one up over the last few years. I really enjoy driving my somewhat fuel-efficient Rangers, and my lifted Ranger can handle almost everything I throw at it including loading up the bed with half of a cut-up F250 so there's really no need to bother with a ZF5 when I can just use that truck for most of my truck needs.