Day 1 with my 1Honey

[ArdWrknTrk]

You would have lost your mind on our drag car, started with a built Chevy 292 truck engine running 3 45DCOE Webers. We decided to go into AHRA B-Econorail with the engine and clutchflite. Went to Budds Creek Maryland and ran, I told the driver to do a clean cut (kill the magneto and shove in the clutch). I watched him launch, observed a slightly dark initial exhaust from the headers and listened. Near the end, the engine sounded "soft". When the car was pushed back, I ran a finger in each of the two collectors to check the color while my partner pulled the plugs. Plugs were light, almost white, collectors had gray exhaust deposits.

I popped the jet covers off, and pulled one of the emulsion tubes, looked at the air jet, and turned and said "Fred, give me a set pf 180 airs". Next run, ET was down quite a bit, mph up and car sounded strong all the way. Plugs had a nice medium color.

Fellow in the next pit came over and asked how the **** did I do that, everyone he saw running Webers had a portable weather station, charts and a book on Webers. I told him it was knowing what part effected the mixture at different rpms. It was lean at the top, so less air was needed, most people would put in a bigger main jet which would make it too rich at low end.

My uncle's 330GT 2+2 had a brace of Weber downdrafts on it. I was too young to mess with them.

Webers were MUCH easier to deal with than Stromberg's or SU's.

Those things would change with temperature or humidity, not only air pressure.

More oil, less oil, thicker oil, what a mess....

[mat in tn]

You would have lost your mind on our drag car, started with a built Chevy 292 truck engine running 3 45DCOE Webers. We decided to go into AHRA B-Econorail with the engine and clutchflite. Went to Budds Creek Maryland and ran, I told the driver to do a clean cut (kill the magneto and shove in the clutch). I watched him launch, observed a slightly dark initial exhaust from the headers and listened. Near the end, the engine sounded "soft". When the car was pushed back, I ran a finger in each of the two collectors to check the color while my partner pulled the plugs. Plugs were light, almost white, collectors had gray exhaust deposits.

I popped the jet covers off, and pulled one of the emulsion tubes, looked at the air jet, and turned and said "Fred, give me a set pf 180 airs". Next run, ET was down quite a bit, mph up and car sounded strong all the way. Plugs had a nice medium color.

Fellow in the next pit came over and asked how the **** did I do that, everyone he saw running Webers had a portable weather station, charts and a book on Webers. I told him it was knowing what part effected the mixture at different rpms. It was lean at the top, so less air was needed, most people would put in a bigger main jet which would make it too rich at low end.

this is the stuff that I love. people with experience on a subject from putting in the work, time, and focus needed to succeed.

[Clutch47]

Thanks for that connection. 💪

I'm all about it.

Still sitting on my hands on this Weber setup. I've screwed with Carter and Edelbrock carbs on a few vehicles and I'm definitely a Holley guy. I've got a Quick Fuel 750 on my Merc that is really great, so tuning Holleys and taking proper plug readings isn't new to me. Man, I hate burning my damn fingers.

Over the years I've had Dellortos, SUs, and just about every version of Mikunis from the round slide VMs which is my favorite carb all in motorcycle applications. I'm a very big fan of the stock Harley CV carb, and know their potential.

I ran an 85 ironhead sportster 1000 on a rigid frame for a while with dual mikunis and that did try my patience. 2 separate chokes that actually were enricheners made cold starting a joy. Typical of Harleys, the exhaust pipe diameter and length from the valve determined some parts of the carb jetting. Ended up using almost zero taper needles to get it close to right. I was much younger then and spent most of my time in throttle positions well into the main jet I guess. Here's a picture of it.

I think you've all helped me decide on this Clifford package.

If I can get it for the same cost of a new Offy dual plane intake, then I think I'll give it a go. Something new to learn.

Good morning ☕️ and Happy New Year.

[Clutch47]

Still sitting on my hands on this Weber setup. I've screwed with Carter and Edelbrock carbs on a few vehicles and I'm definitely a Holley guy. I've got a Quick Fuel 750 on my Merc that is really great, so tuning Holleys and taking proper plug readings isn't new to me. Man, I hate burning my damn fingers.

Over the years I've had Dellortos, SUs, and just about every version of Mikunis from the round slide VMs which is my favorite carb all in motorcycle applications. I'm a very big fan of the stock Harley CV carb, and know their potential.

I ran an 85 ironhead sportster 1000 on a rigid frame for a while with dual mikunis and that did try my patience. 2 separate chokes that actually were enricheners made cold starting a joy. Typical of Harleys, the exhaust pipe diameter and length from the valve determined some parts of the carb jetting. Ended up using almost zero taper needles to get it close to right. I was much younger then and spent most of my time in throttle positions well into the main jet I guess. Here's a picture of it.

I think you've all helped me decide on this Clifford package.

If I can get it for the same cost of a new Offy dual plane intake, then I think I'll give it a go. Something new to learn.

Good morning ☕️ and Happy New Year.

A little carburetor story.

My friend buys a 73 Mustang convertible with a 69 429 and C6 from a Thunderbird shoe horned in there.

Stock iron 4V intake and an Edelbrock carb.

Hard starting and just a pig until it was warm, then had unhappy throttle response but ran ok. He's no mechanic but he's not afraid to try. So I go over to help him figure it out and we checked for cracked porcelain and plug conditions first, verified the timing and I listened to it. Definitely carb issues.

Popped the lid off the Edelbrock and found this.

I said "Well my friend, I think we found your issue"

It's a happy strong car now.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Still sitting on my hands on this Weber setup. I've screwed with Carter and Edelbrock carbs on a few vehicles and I'm definitely a Holley guy. I've got a Quick Fuel 750 on my Merc that is really great, so tuning Holleys and taking proper plug readings isn't new to me. Man, I hate burning my damn fingers.

Over the years I've had Dellortos, SUs, and just about every version of Mikunis from the round slide VMs which is my favorite carb all in motorcycle applications. I'm a very big fan of the stock Harley CV carb, and know their potential.

I ran an 85 ironhead sportster 1000 on a rigid frame for a while with dual mikunis and that did try my patience. 2 separate chokes that actually were enricheners made cold starting a joy. Typical of Harleys, the exhaust pipe diameter and length from the valve determined some parts of the carb jetting. Ended up using almost zero taper needles to get it close to right. I was much younger then and spent most of my time in throttle positions well into the main jet I guess. Here's a picture of it.

I think you've all helped me decide on this Clifford package.

If I can get it for the same cost of a new Offy dual plane intake, then I think I'll give it a go. Something new to learn.

Good morning ☕️ and Happy New Year.

I had a Holley 390 that I gave to another Connecticut member from FTE (Josiah Thorngate) for his 300 project truck.

He ended up selling it for a much later 4 door that better fit his growing family and their concerns about safety. (but I do think it worked well enough. )

[Clutch47]

Some developments in my 1Honey fun.

Sealing the deal today on some Clifford parts. I'll give them a fair shot and see how they work.

There's a header, a fuel pressure regulator and a carb calibration kit too.

Kinda looking forward to this part.

I've also got another idea floating around.

Considering the happy part of the power produced by this 88K mile 300 will be moved up by 500-750 rpm, and I'd be more inclined to slam my hammer in my truck door than to put a Chebby-esque HEI under the hood..

My plan is this.

Years ago, I fooled around with 2.3s and ended up making my own ignition using a duraspark distributor that got different weights and springs along with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm wired up to a Chrysler ignition module with an external ballast resistor.

Man did that work well.

If I need to, I'll do this too.

We'll see how it works.

I've never screwed around with Webers, so this will be new for me.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Some developments in my 1Honey fun.

Sealing the deal today on some Clifford parts. I'll give them a fair shot and see how they work.

There's a header, a fuel pressure regulator and a carb calibration kit too.

Kinda looking forward to this part.

I've also got another idea floating around.

Considering the happy part of the power produced by this 88K mile 300 will be moved up by 500-750 rpm, and I'd be more inclined to slam my hammer in my truck door than to put a Chebby-esque HEI under the hood..

My plan is this.

Years ago, I fooled around with 2.3s and ended up making my own ignition using a duraspark distributor that got different weights and springs along with an adjustable vacuum advance diaphragm wired up to a Chrysler ignition module with an external ballast resistor.

Man did that work well.

If I need to, I'll do this too.

We'll see how it works.

I've never screwed around with Webers, so this will be new for me.

Webers are pretty simple if you understand how they work.

Scott's Duraspark recurve pages are here:

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

What tangible advantage does the Mopar box offer?

I remember these things from one of my girlfriend's Aspen in highschool

A stock cammed 300 makes it's power below 2,000 and is completely done by 3K.

I used to routinely blow past 6 grand in my Mustang GT with no ignition problems from a bone stock DS-II+recurved distributor.

I'll be the first to admit that I've never driven a 300 with a Clifford cam, intake and dual Weber's, but I have driven one with a cam, EFI manifolds and an Offy 4V intake with my 390 Holley.

They can definitely be a lot more than a farm tractor or Genset engine.👍

[Clutch47]

Webers are pretty simple if you understand how they work.

Scott's Duraspark recurve pages are here:

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

What tangible advantage does the Mopar box offer?

I remember these things from one of my girlfriend's Aspen in highschool

A stock cammed 300 makes it's power below 2,000 and is completely done by 3K.

I used to routinely blow past 6 grand in my Mustang GT with no ignition problems from a bone stock DS-II+recurved distributor.

I'll be the first to admit that I've never driven a 300 with a Clifford cam, intake and dual Weber's, but I have driven one with a cam, EFI manifolds and an Offy 4V intake with my 390 Holley.

They can definitely be a lot more than a farm tractor or Genset engine.👍

In my 2.3 build, nobody made a decent quality ignition box that was affordable at the time... 1990.. Navy E3 pay.

My friend was an autocross guy running his 66 fastback 289 car and had built his stepped ignition using Jacob's ignition pieces.

I read the Jacobs book he had in his shop and saw it there. 'Dr.Jacobs guide to optimizing your ignition'

Check it out if you can find it.

As Jacobs explained the Chrysler modules have predetermined dwell and rev limiters built in. The stock duraspark box I had got really lame after 5K..and the Chrysler module let it rev freely to 7500.

At that point my stock valve springs and hydraulic followers put an end to my fun.

Mopar sells a module specific to power below 5K. It's orange.

I'd probably hog out the duraspark box and hide the orange eyesore under it.

Many racers do that with HEI modules so they become quick change.

[ArdWrknTrk]

In my 2.3 build, nobody made a decent quality ignition box that was affordable at the time... 1990.. Navy E3 pay.

My friend was an autocross guy running his 66 fastback 289 car and had built his stepped ignition using Jacob's ignition pieces.

I read the Jacobs book he had in his shop and saw it there. 'Dr.Jacobs guide to optimizing your ignition'

Check it out if you can find it.

As Jacobs explained the Chrysler modules have predetermined dwell and rev limiters built in. The stock duraspark box I had got really lame after 5K..and the Chrysler module let it rev freely to 7500.

At that point my stock valve springs and hydraulic followers put an end to my fun.

Mopar sells a module specific to power below 5K. It's orange.

I'd probably hog out the duraspark box and hide the orange eyesore under it.

Many racers do that with HEI modules so they become quick change.

I've seen the orange, gold and blue boxes.

Back in the '80's everyone would tell me that I needed an MSD or Mallory, or something.....

But unlike them I didn't get stuck because my ignition failed.

I can understand why a built in rev limiter might make sense but WTH is the point of a dwell limiter and a ballast resistor?

You're turning prospective spark into heat.

I understand why there's a resistor in Run with a DuraSpark system but am trying to grasp the need of you can get a Mopar box that doesn't overheat the coil.

What coil were you using and what car was the 2-3 in?

[Clutch47]

I've seen the orange, gold and blue boxes.

Back in the '80's everyone would tell me that I needed an MSD or Mallory, or something.....

But unlike them I didn't get stuck because my ignition failed.

I can understand why a built in rev limiter might make sense but WTH is the point of a dwell limiter and a ballast resistor?

You're turning prospective spark into heat.

I understand why there's a resistor in Run with a DuraSpark system but am trying to grasp the need of you can get a Mopar box that doesn't overheat the coil.

What coil were you using and what car was the 2-3 in?

I'll try again. My first reply disappeared.

Car was an '84 Capri that was a 4 speed car. Swapped in a 5 speed from an SVO and ran the 2.3 with an offy 4 barrel intake and a Holley 390. A guy in the airframes shop made me a header to settle a bet and it got a 2-1/2" exhaust with a Flowmaster.

We gutted it and bent some aluminum sheets for an interior, and went through it one bushing at a time. Ended up reinforcing the control arms all the way around and cutting the rear springs a 1/4 coil at a time until it was as right as we could make it.

The front got V8 coils we heated in the center to get it down. I can't remember the sway bars maker but the front bar was 1" and the rear was 7/8" I think...

It went around corners pretty good but when it let go.. it pushed bad. Like out of nowhere it would just quit sticking.

There was an alignment rack in the service hangar so we tried many combinations.

Falken had just come out with their FK line of tires and my friend was sponsored.

He got me the O6U in 235/60/15 for $58 each.

Man..I can't believe I can remember this crap now. I'm 52 and survived a friggin brain aneurysm burst 7 years ago.

Anyway.

The Mopar box allowed more dwell giving a longer spark...and less heat. I think the coil was my friends old Mallory tower of power as we called it.

The resistor was in line before the module for some reason that Dr.Jacobs recommended.

He was part of Carroll Shelbys time with Dodge and the 2.2 GLH turbos. Cool stuff.