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2 inch lift camber adjustment


Snottyvar

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Snotty - Welcome to the forum. But the email you were sent asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder and publish an introduction before posting elsewhere. We do that because we have our guidelines posted there and want everyone to have had a chance to see them because we will hold you to them.

So let's park this conversation right here until you post an introduction in NMSH.

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Snotty - Welcome to the forum. But the email you were sent asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder and publish an introduction before posting elsewhere. We do that because we have our guidelines posted there and want everyone to have had a chance to see them because we will hold you to them.

So let's park this conversation right here until you post an introduction in NMSH.

Well, that was quick! Well done!

So, let the comments begin!

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Thanks. I'm 5 degrees out! I think it will settle a little. I'll get the appropriate nut, or closest too.

depending on how you added 2" of lift there may be more to this. if you used taller springs or spring spacers then you changed more than the camber. the caster is affected also. unless you use rear lift mounts along with front lift mounts. however, the bushing is also the correction adjuster for both. this should be measured on a proper rack, but many have done well in home garages with good flat/level floors. measuring the caster can be really tricky though.

as the truck is lifted the I beam gets angled. as a result, the top ball joint needs to move inward. as it gets lifted the radius arm also gets angled and so the ball joint needs to get moved rearward. both of these are happening at the same time and will require the correct bushing for the combination of the two. at this point of needing to make adjustments it is a great idea to install new pivot bushings and radius arm bushings as they all are going to affect this.

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depending on how you added 2" of lift there may be more to this. if you used taller springs or spring spacers then you changed more than the camber. the caster is affected also. unless you use rear lift mounts along with front lift mounts. however, the bushing is also the correction adjuster for both. this should be measured on a proper rack, but many have done well in home garages with good flat/level floors. measuring the caster can be really tricky though.

as the truck is lifted the I beam gets angled. as a result, the top ball joint needs to move inward. as it gets lifted the radius arm also gets angled and so the ball joint needs to get moved rearward. both of these are happening at the same time and will require the correct bushing for the combination of the two. at this point of needing to make adjustments it is a great idea to install new pivot bushings and radius arm bushings as they all are going to affect this.

I used a two inch spacer under the spring. I would think going straight up would only affect camber as nothing has changed in a forward or backward way. It is driving fine, no pull and steering feels good, but I'm going to wear out tires pretty fast. I'll put in the new adjuster nuts with caster in mind of course but as long as it's leading the wheel a touch all should be well. we will see. Thanks for your input.

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I used a two inch spacer under the spring. I would think going straight up would only affect camber as nothing has changed in a forward or backward way. It is driving fine, no pull and steering feels good, but I'm going to wear out tires pretty fast. I'll put in the new adjuster nuts with caster in mind of course but as long as it's leading the wheel a touch all should be well. we will see. Thanks for your input.

Radius arms put the pivot point far behind the wheel centerline

If you bring the hubs down you have to increase trail, unless you use an equal drop radius bracket.

Screenshot_2023-12-21-16-16-10-528.thumb.jpeg.354b39f86e7d4d5fc43051c1c7f98ce8.jpeg

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I used a two inch spacer under the spring. I would think going straight up would only affect camber as nothing has changed in a forward or backward way. It is driving fine, no pull and steering feels good, but I'm going to wear out tires pretty fast. I'll put in the new adjuster nuts with caster in mind of course but as long as it's leading the wheel a touch all should be well. we will see. Thanks for your input.

there is also another fine point to add. the twin i beams, or twin traction beams are not the same on both sides. they are of different lengths and therefore are reacting differently to the spacers. this is where a GOOD alignment is valuable. the caster is affected comparably yet the camber is not. the shorter axle will have the greatest adjustment needed assuming it was perfectly in alignment prior.

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