Help finding source of excessive smoking

[mat in tn]

I truly appreciate all the help here. I admit i am not any kind of expert but learn quickly. These old trucks this is really the best source of info!

I missed this reply but it turned out to be a very bad connection to the starter solenoid made worse by the washing. This bum connection was causeing all kinds of electrical readings and i spent a good deal of time trying to get consistent readings haha. Cleaned up and reconnected also sloved the trouble starting i was having that i thought was from sitting for so long.

Finally got it started and running for a while. It looks like all of yhe exhaust manifold gaskets are bad/loose. On both sides of the engine both against the engine and between the manifold and tail pipe.

Is this a job that can be done without removing the engine? (Looks like theres enough room, not counting all the work its going to take...). Other work/jobs i should consider during this process?

It does not smell sweet (just like nomrmal old truck exhuast) and coolant level remains steady. There is significant oil coating the engine but none on the ground, i am hoping its just seepage from sitting. Time will tell.

this sounds as if it is neglect accumulated over time. on the efi engines it is necessary to remove the upper intake in order to remove the passenger side valve cover. however, I would consider doing this as a step towards having a reliable, drivable, and enjoyable truck. it's pretty strait forward although a bit clumsy assembly except for the "blind bolt". this is a single torx drive bolt in center of the intake under the curve, accessible through a cleared narrow slot in the center. torx 45 on a long 1/4"extension will get it. as far as the exhaust manifolds go. broken bolts are common. NO FUN! get a can of "free all" not a sponsor but no other brand has worked any better for me. soak all bolts threads and nuts. let this soak a few while you get tools ready.

[BuggTruck]

For reference. A pretty decently put together video on replacing/upgrading the exhaust manifolds.

Reference: Tips on not breaking bolts

[ArdWrknTrk]

For reference. A pretty decently put together video on replacing/upgrading the exhaust manifolds.

Reference: Tips on not breaking bolts

That went way too easy.

It's a '90's truck with at least a decade less corrosion and abuse.

Around here you're lucky if there's even a hex left to get a wrench on.

But I recently did my leaking drivers side manifold and wouldn't even have attempted it without an acetylene torch to get the bolts /studs cherry red. (and I have stainless bolts with almost no corrosion from when I installed a new engine in 2008)

Hopefully your bolts and studs are in better shape and are already all oily already from the leaking valve covers.

[mat in tn]

For reference. A pretty decently put together video on replacing/upgrading the exhaust manifolds.

Reference: Tips on not breaking bolts

very nice bronco. obviously not driven on salt for 40 years. also, the exhaust had been previously replaced. but in general, a good demo.

[85lebaront2]

I truly appreciate all the help here. I admit i am not any kind of expert but learn quickly. These old trucks this is really the best source of info!

I missed this reply but it turned out to be a very bad connection to the starter solenoid made worse by the washing. This bum connection was causeing all kinds of electrical readings and i spent a good deal of time trying to get consistent readings haha. Cleaned up and reconnected also sloved the trouble starting i was having that i thought was from sitting for so long.

Finally got it started and running for a while. It looks like all of yhe exhaust manifold gaskets are bad/loose. On both sides of the engine both against the engine and between the manifold and tail pipe.

Is this a job that can be done without removing the engine? (Looks like theres enough room, not counting all the work its going to take...). Other work/jobs i should consider during this process?

It does not smell sweet (just like nomrmal old truck exhuast) and coolant level remains steady. There is significant oil coating the engine but none on the ground, i am hoping its just seepage from sitting. Time will tell.

I will add a couple of items.

First while you have the intake plenum (top part) off, carefully examine the injection wiring harness, these trucks are very prone to crumbling insulation.

Second, exhaust manifolds, the passenger side is a unique to 1985-86 302 EFI engines so be very careful with it. The O2 sensor can be a real pain to get out if it needs replacing.

[BuggTruck]

I will add a couple of items.

First while you have the intake plenum (top part) off, carefully examine the injection wiring harness, these trucks are very prone to crumbling insulation.

Second, exhaust manifolds, the passenger side is a unique to 1985-86 302 EFI engines so be very careful with it. The O2 sensor can be a real pain to get out if it needs replacing.

Is replacing the injectors something i should consider at this time? I have not had any problems i can think of. Id rather not get into the fuel system if i can help it but i also would rather do mork work now than have to take things back apart again later.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Is replacing the injectors something i should consider at this time? I have not had any problems i can think of. Id rather not get into the fuel system if i can help it but i also would rather do mork work now than have to take things back apart again later.

If everything is functional now, leave it alone.

You're going to open a can of worms.

[mat in tn]

If everything is functional now, leave it alone.

You're going to open a can of worms.

I would stay focused on the exhaust. it's true that you would need to remove the upper in order to do a fuel injector service but just consider this experience. if you get the exhaust completed easily enough then take it from there.