Solenoid wiring

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, I know you prefer the "jump +/S" terminals method.

In my case, using a big screwdriver and jumping the two main terminals revealed that the relay was dead.

The starter turned immediately as it should.

If you use this hard way method, be aware that your screwdriver will do some sparks.

Be sure your truck is on Neutral or Park position! If transmission is engaged, it will move ahead, this could be very dangerous.

Just verify that the starter turns. Do not maintain the screwdriver-jumper too long.

If your starter turns:

A) The relay is faulty, or

B) The purple wire doesn't make it close (no current coming from the ignition switch when turned on).

You can verify if the purple wire sends current to the relay by simply using a light tester. Unplug the purple wire, put the tester between it and its terminal, and turn your ignition key to on. The light should come on if your purple wire operates correctly.

If your starter doesn't turn with the screwdriver jumping method, it doesn't mean the starter is dead... Check all your connections, including the ground to the body and to the starter.

I had another issue later, very similar, and this time I had to replace the ground cable itself (big black one, from the battery to the body/starter).

Not at the fender relay, at the starter.

Of course out of gear and ignition off.

But that's the point I'm trying to make (and understand)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Curious... Normally, if you jump the two main terminals, you bypass the relay and send the current directly to the starter.

Use an end wrench.

It reaches over the insulating ridge of the relay and more easily carries the current.

But he wouldn't get a click from the fender relay if the park/neutral/clutch safety didn't complete the circuit...

The "click" you hear comes from the relay, or from the starter?

This is why I asked if the starter turns when the solenoid on the starter is jumped.

We eliminate the fender relay and the pink wire from the equation.

Tom seems to have everything wired correctly.

[BigBrother-84]

But he wouldn't get a click from the fender relay if the park/neutral/clutch safety didn't complete the circuit...

OK, I see... I don't have any of these "security switches" in Big Bro. Manual, not clutch safety, nothing.

[ArdWrknTrk]

But he wouldn't get a click from the fender relay if the park/neutral/clutch safety didn't complete the circuit...

OK, I see... I don't have any of these "security switches" in Big Bro. Manual, not clutch safety, nothing.

Maybe that's a Canadian thing?

Or some PO just jammed a spare fuse in the clutch safety interlock pigtail?

Because it's shown in the '85 EVTM.

Edit: . I forgot how Gary had the '85 manual posted...

[BigBrother-84]

Maybe that's a Canadian thing?

Or some PO just jammed a spare fuse in the clutch safety interlock pigtail?

Because it's shown in the '85 EVTM.

Edit: . I forgot how Gary had the '85 manual posted...

Jim, I have the same diagram in 1984 EVTM. Identical.

But it appears only for the EEC part, not for the Duraspark.

Is it possible that the Duraspark ignition wiring doesn't have the Clutch Lockout Switch?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, I have the same diagram in 1984 EVTM. Identical.

But it appears only for the EEC part, not for the Duraspark.

Is it possible that the Duraspark ignition wiring doesn't have the Clutch Lockout Switch?

If you look at the Duraspark page it says "from start pg. 31"

That is page 31... 🤷

Ford definitely had clutch lockout when they went to hydraulic clutch (1984 for your Windsor)

[ArdWrknTrk]

But he wouldn't get a click from the fender relay if the park/neutral/clutch safety didn't complete the circuit...

OK, I see... I don't have any of these "security switches" in Big Bro. Manual, not clutch safety, nothing.

Did someone add a remote start to your truck, Jeff?

If so, that would explain why it's bypassed.

[BigBrother-84]

Did someone add a remote start to your truck, Jeff?

If so, that would explain why it's bypassed.

Nope, no remote.

And when I installed a NOS "Dealer Installed" speed control kit, it came with a brake and a clutch switches.

Installing these, I didn't see any sign of such disconnected circuit, no cut wire or empty connector there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nope, no remote.

And when I installed a NOS "Dealer Installed" speed control kit, it came with a brake and a clutch switches.

Installing these, I didn't see any sign of such disconnected circuit, no cut wire or empty connector there.

If you look at the diagram, C190 and C128 are there in any case.

It just depends on where Ford chose to put the jumper.

So I'm not really understanding why you think there would be a cut wire or empty connector.

I do know the factory clutch switch jumper (used with an automatic transmission) is a single plug with a loop of R/LB wire sticking out.

[IowaTom]

If you look at the diagram, C190 and C128 are there in any case.

It just depends on where Ford chose to put the jumper.

So I'm not really understanding why you think there would be a cut wire or empty connector.

I do know the factory clutch switch jumper (used with an automatic transmission) is a single plug with a loop of R/LB wire sticking out.

Great stuff, Guys. I really appreciate everyone's ideas.

My neighbor is a mechanic by trade and sold me the truck a few years ago. He came over, looked at the wiring and heard the story - that it ran started fine before many, many times. He climbed under it, gave it a few friendly taps with my Tonya Harding (hammer) and it sprang to life.

Love those offshore starters. Mine was good for a year.