ArdWrknTrk Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 Ahhhh thanks for spotting C610. That makes sense. I was looking for one "splice" like it is physically in the truck. My "battery warning" lamp has never illuminated.... Probably doesn't work like everything else... FML. Neither does the "Brake" warning light. PO of my truck was very neglectful. Mice chewed wires and eventually caused a fire under the hood. His "backyard mechanic" managed to get the truck running again after the fire, but he left vacuum lines, wires and sensors completely melted and connected. The EGR and dual Smog pumps still fully connected, but none of the vacuums and sensors working. My first step of ownership were to replace the Motorcrap Carb, remove all the BS and fix leaks. The truck has ran great for 10k miles. If your battery warning lamp is burnt out then the LG/R wire isn't getting power to bootstrap the alternator. (some later trucks had a 512ohm resistor across the back of the cluster flex to 'help' the alternator in case the bulb filament breaks) I don't know what any PO (or their backyard mechanic) might have messed with. I can only speak of how it should be, or how I've made many modifications to my own truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryans460 Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 Ahhhh thanks for spotting C610. That makes sense. I was looking for one "splice" like it is physically in the truck. My "battery warning" lamp has never illuminated.... Probably doesn't work like everything else... FML. Neither does the "Brake" warning light. PO of my truck was very neglectful. Mice chewed wires and eventually caused a fire under the hood. His "backyard mechanic" managed to get the truck running again after the fire, but he left vacuum lines, wires and sensors completely melted and connected. The EGR and dual Smog pumps still fully connected, but none of the vacuums and sensors working. My first step of ownership were to replace the Motorcrap Carb, remove all the BS and fix leaks. The truck has ran great for 10k miles. Rewired the VR. Tested. Still no charging. 12.2V DC while running. I removed the ALT and Harness. Heading to the parts store with the Original ALT in hand. This time I watched very carefully, and the Ammeter did bounce slightly when I engaged the starter ....maybe it works.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 This time I watched very carefully, and the Ammeter did bounce slightly when I engaged the starter ....maybe it works.... They never worked worth a damn. That's why everyone has them converted to a volt meter by Rocketman/CCI or just leaves them disconnected. Did you try grounding the screw on the regulator (where it says "Ground Here To Test"?) I'm not sure why your "new" alternator wouldn't be charging. If I were to buy one in a store I always make them test it before I walk out the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 25, 2023 Author Share Posted November 25, 2023 Ahhhh thanks for spotting C610. That makes sense. I was looking for one "splice" like it is physically in the truck. My "battery warning" lamp has never illuminated.... Probably doesn't work like everything else... FML. Neither does the "Brake" warning light. PO of my truck was very neglectful. Mice chewed wires and eventually caused a fire under the hood. His "backyard mechanic" managed to get the truck running again after the fire, but he left vacuum lines, wires and sensors completely melted and connected. The EGR and dual Smog pumps still fully connected, but none of the vacuums and sensors working. My first step of ownership were to replace the Motorcrap Carb, remove all the BS and fix leaks. The truck has ran great for 10k miles. Update, I see RYan had the ALT tested, it was bad, the auto parts say's they will test the new one before they sell it to him. Waiting for update in his thread over on the other forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryans460 Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Update, I see RYan had the ALT tested, it was bad, the auto parts say's they will test the new one before they sell it to him. Waiting for update in his thread over on the other forum. Good news. New, new Alternator worked fine. Full details in the other forum thread, but it's amazing how the diagram is correct all of the time. And correctly functioning multimeter helps. FYI: '86 2G ALT can accept the universal "D" shape VR plug with 3 wires, and only use the first 2 wires to maintain all factory features. The third wire (VR"I") is unused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Good news. New, new Alternator worked fine. Full details in the other forum thread, but it's amazing how the diagram is correct all of the time. And correctly functioning multimeter helps. FYI: '86 2G ALT can accept the universal "D" shape VR plug with 3 wires, and only use the first 2 wires to maintain all factory features. The third wire (VR"I") is unused. That is great news! I'm glad the parts store was willing to test first this time I've definitely been in that position where I think I'm losing my mind. Then I remember "just because it's new doesn't mean it's good" Thanks to this adventure Gary can correct another error in Ford's documentation. The '86 EVTM diagram should have the two wires in the VR plug together, rather that the LG/R exciter wire at (I) Only other diagram mistake I recall is showing a tach as getting power from the ICVR..... this has also been revised in the public facing documentation here on the site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Thanks to this adventure Gary can correct another error in Ford's documentation. The '86 EVTM diagram should have the two wires in the VR plug together, rather that the LG/R exciter wire at (I) Well, my company left yesterday and I'm trying to catch up. Looks like I missed a lot in this thread. But please help me understand what I need to do in the schematic below? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 Thanks to this adventure Gary can correct another error in Ford's documentation. The '86 EVTM diagram should have the two wires in the VR plug together, rather that the LG/R exciter wire at (I) Well, my company left yesterday and I'm trying to catch up. Looks like I missed a lot in this thread. But please help me understand what I need to do in the schematic below? C186 should show the LG/R 904 exciter wire going to (S) in the center terminal position rather than (I) at the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 C186 should show the LG/R 904 exciter wire going to (S) in the center terminal position rather than (I) at the bottom. Perfect. Thanks. I'll see if I can correct that today and chime back in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 C186 should show the LG/R 904 exciter wire going to (S) in the center terminal position rather than (I) at the bottom. Is this what you had in mind? And, by the way, I think I see how the error occurred. On the left, below, you can see the regulator/alternator wiring from the 1985 EVTM with a 1G alternator and an idiot light. On the right you'll see the wiring for an 85 with an ammeter. Note that with a warning light the LG/R goes to "I" but with an ammeter it goes to "S". However, in '86 there were no idiot lights, just ammeters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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