essmaker Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 one of the quirks may be that it is loaded by the jack. I don't use a jack there unless I'm pushing it back up once the arm is back in position. I like the I beam to fall a bit. but I do keep a jack in position just 1/2" loose. I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets. lift kits being bolted on does make it a little easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets. I am seriously thinkin' of grindin' my rivets off and replacing them with bolts since I'm this far into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets. I am seriously thinkin' of grindin' my rivets off and replacing them with bolts since I'm this far into it. I decided to grind the rivets off. Ground the bottom of the rivets off, soaked the head with WD-40. Removed the 2 bolts, using a 4-pound hammer, rocked the bracket front to rear. about 4 blows each way and the bracket dropped. Soaked the rivet heads with WD-40, lifted and insulated the fuel lines inside the frame rail, heated the rivets and with 2 hammer blows and they popped out. Took about 3 hours with a couple smoke breaks. Kept one rivet head, now off to the hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted April 23 Share Posted April 23 I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets. I am seriously thinkin' of grindin' my rivets off and replacing them with bolts since I'm this far into it. I decided to grind the rivets off. Ground the bottom of the rivets off, soaked the head with WD-40. Removed the 2 bolts, using a 4-pound hammer, rocked the bracket front to rear. about 4 blows each way and the bracket dropped. Soaked the rivet heads with WD-40, lifted and insulated the fuel lines inside the frame rail, heated the rivets and with 2 hammer blows and they popped out. Took about 3 hours with a couple smoke breaks. Kept one rivet head, now off to the hardware store. While a pain, in the end I think you'll be glad you did it! Any future work you have to do will be much easier. While you're at the hardware store, get some rust reformer and paint. Seems like everything I touch I do it and thank myself 5 years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 While a pain, in the end I think you'll be glad you did it! Any future work you have to do will be much easier. While you're at the hardware store, get some rust reformer and paint. Seems like everything I touch I do it and thank myself 5 years later. a win is a win! be sure to torque the bolts per their size and grade. hopefully you used staked lock nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 While a pain, in the end I think you'll be glad you did it! Any future work you have to do will be much easier. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n152285/20240423_142343.jpg While you're at the hardware store, get some rust reformer and paint. Seems like everything I touch I do it and thank myself 5 years later. How did you prep the metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDLong Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 a win is a win! be sure to torque the bolts per their size and grade. hopefully you used staked lock nuts. I purchased all fine thread hardware with flange lock nuts. I intend to anti-seize all the hardwre. I found a torque spec of 70 ft-lbs for the 7/16th bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 How did you prep the metal? I first used a wire wheel to get it as clean as I could. Then, I just sprayed on a rust reformer/primer - which I have really come to like and think it is doing a good job. After that I paint it with a coat or two...I have been using Hammered paint on frame parts. Up here in the north with all of the salt, I try to protect anything I take off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 How did you prep the metal? I first used a wire wheel to get it as clean as I could. Then, I just sprayed on a rust reformer/primer - which I have really come to like and think it is doing a good job. After that I paint it with a coat or two...I have been using Hammered paint on frame parts. Up here in the north with all of the salt, I try to protect anything I take off. Good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts