Nothing Special Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 .... He also talked me into Eaton TrueTracs instead of the lunchbox locker, two of them actually, so front and rear.... I would caution you to use caution the first few times you drive it on snowy highways in 4WD. As I said above, I've heard that a TrueTrac in front is invisible, but I also know how dangerous it can be when one front tire pulls and tries to make you veer into the next lane. So just be careful until you know what it does. And then report back! I think there are aftermarket mechanical CADs. Or at least there were. They might have just been available for the thermally actuated GM units (can you imagine a worse idea than needing something under the truck to get hot so you can drive out of the deep snow you are stuck in ). But it might be worth looking into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 Wow, that's good progress! You'll like the TrueTracs, at least you will the one in the back. I've not driven a truck with one in the front so don't know how that will work - maybe you can tell us since you have already used it. Does it come in suddenly and change the steering? As for the 4wd issue, it does sound like a vacuum problem since it drops at high throttle. I tested it on shallow mud and I had significantly less control in 2WD even though my rear tires were grabbing just fine. I just kept it in 4WD the entire access road I was driving and didn't notice any trouble with steering. I did hear some clunking noises that might have been tire engagement but it also might have been the CAD malfunctioning. As long as I didn't drive in someone else's ruts I could point the truck wherever I needed to. Still needs more test data until I can tell you for sure it's trouble-free. I need to find time to get under the truck and inspect the lines. I am just way too busy these days. I'm DEEP into my 10.25 right now. I had a little medical issue that sidetracked me, but I hope to be shimming it up as soon as I get the carrier back. What's your plan for the 10.25? .... He also talked me into Eaton TrueTracs instead of the lunchbox locker, two of them actually, so front and rear.... I would caution you to use caution the first few times you drive it on snowy highways in 4WD. As I said above, I've heard that a TrueTrac in front is invisible, but I also know how dangerous it can be when one front tire pulls and tries to make you veer into the next lane. So just be careful until you know what it does. And then report back! I think there are aftermarket mechanical CADs. Or at least there were. They might have just been available for the thermally actuated GM units (can you imagine a worse idea than needing something under the truck to get hot so you can drive out of the deep snow you are stuck in ). But it might be worth looking into. Thank you for the advice. I'm not sure if I will encounter a snowy highway but I'll keep that knowledge in my arsenal. A manual mechanical or even electrical actuator for the CAD would be much better, I understand that vacuum might have been chosen due to manufacturing costs but there's got to be a better way. If I can't figure out the solution very easily I might try making it permanently engaged if that's possible without a delete kit. Though I'd rather not because I haven't even checked my fuel economy with all the upgrades yet and gas is $5.50+Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 18 Share Posted April 18 .... If I can't figure out the solution very easily I might try making it permanently engaged if that's possible without a delete kit. Though I'd rather not because I haven't even checked my fuel economy with all the upgrades yet and gas is $5.50+ Deleting the CAD isn't a bad option. Dodge did it themselves by 2007 when my truck was made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 19 Share Posted April 19 Wow, that's good progress! You'll like the TrueTracs, at least you will the one in the back. I've not driven a truck with one in the front so don't know how that will work - maybe you can tell us since you have already used it. Does it come in suddenly and change the steering? As for the 4wd issue, it does sound like a vacuum problem since it drops at high throttle. I tested it on shallow mud and I had significantly less control in 2WD even though my rear tires were grabbing just fine. I just kept it in 4WD the entire access road I was driving and didn't notice any trouble with steering. I did hear some clunking noises that might have been tire engagement but it also might have been the CAD malfunctioning. As long as I didn't drive in someone else's ruts I could point the truck wherever I needed to. Still needs more test data until I can tell you for sure it's trouble-free. I need to find time to get under the truck and inspect the lines. I am just way too busy these days. I'm DEEP into my 10.25 right now. I had a little medical issue that sidetracked me, but I hope to be shimming it up as soon as I get the carrier back. What's your plan for the 10.25? .... He also talked me into Eaton TrueTracs instead of the lunchbox locker, two of them actually, so front and rear.... I would caution you to use caution the first few times you drive it on snowy highways in 4WD. As I said above, I've heard that a TrueTrac in front is invisible, but I also know how dangerous it can be when one front tire pulls and tries to make you veer into the next lane. So just be careful until you know what it does. And then report back! I think there are aftermarket mechanical CADs. Or at least there were. They might have just been available for the thermally actuated GM units (can you imagine a worse idea than needing something under the truck to get hot so you can drive out of the deep snow you are stuck in ). But it might be worth looking into. Thank you for the advice. I'm not sure if I will encounter a snowy highway but I'll keep that knowledge in my arsenal. A manual mechanical or even electrical actuator for the CAD would be much better, I understand that vacuum might have been chosen due to manufacturing costs but there's got to be a better way. If I can't figure out the solution very easily I might try making it permanently engaged if that's possible without a delete kit. Though I'd rather not because I haven't even checked my fuel economy with all the upgrades yet and gas is $5.50+ Just putting it back with all Dana/Spicer parts (except the pinion yoke that's NLA. I've beat on this ting for close to 40 years, and I don't have that much left in me now so I consider it "lifetime replacement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted July 15 Author Share Posted July 15 Just putting it back with all Dana/Spicer parts (except the pinion yoke that's NLA. I've beat on this ting for close to 40 years, and I don't have that much left in me now so I consider it "lifetime replacement" I did end up getting that Posi Lock kit for the CAD. Works good. Got some JKS sway bar disconnects for a Jeep XJ, they bolted right up but I need to grind down a couple parts so they're easier to take off. I got my adjustable control arms and I need to get a track bar and then I'm basically done with the "build" part unless I want to do a winch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 I did end up getting that Posi Lock kit for the CAD. Works good. Got some JKS sway bar disconnects for a Jeep XJ, they bolted right up but I need to grind down a couple parts so they're easier to take off. I got my adjustable control arms and I need to get a track bar and then I'm basically done with the "build" part unless I want to do a winch. Sorry for the late response, but that is great articulation! On the sway bar links, do you pull a pin to disconnect? How hard is it to disconnect and how easy to reconnect? I'm not running a sway bar, and don't think I really need it, because I want the articulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 Sorry for the late response, but that is great articulation! On the sway bar links, do you pull a pin to disconnect? How hard is it to disconnect and how easy to reconnect? I'm not running a sway bar, and don't think I really need it, because I want the articulation. You pull a pin and slide the link off the pivot that's bolted to the spring perch. It's incredibly difficult to do probably because these were meant for a Jeep and the pivots are too long. I'm going to grind them down and after that they should be much better. Had to run out yesterday and get a bench grinder from Craigslist since my vintage Craftsman died. Gonna try it out tonight and see what I can achieve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 16 Share Posted July 16 You pull a pin and slide the link off the pivot that's bolted to the spring perch. It's incredibly difficult to do probably because these were meant for a Jeep and the pivots are too long. I'm going to grind them down and after that they should be much better. Had to run out yesterday and get a bench grinder from Craigslist since my vintage Craftsman died. Gonna try it out tonight and see what I can achieve. Good luck. And let us know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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