Jim's Lower Steering Shaft Q&A

[Gary Lewis]

This thread is intended to allow me to understand what Jim did to create a Borgeson-like lower steering shaft at about 1/10 the cost. Here are some links to pictures and discussions thereof:

• Recent discussion with pics and links

• Discussion in Lower Rag Joint thread

• This discussion in WHYDTYTT

The overall intent is so I can accurately create a tab on a page in Documentation to explain to others how to do it. But I've not twigged myself so have some questions for Jim - or anyone for that matter:

1. You cut the u-joints off of the 2009 - 2014 F150 lower steering shaft and welded them onto your old steering shaft?

2. In this post Cory said that later lower shaft is a direct swap for the Bullnose one. But that didn't work on your '87, Jim? What was different?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm kinda surprised you didn't tag me for this thread???? .

1) I cut the pinch bolt ends off the cheap eBay shaft and used the splined rag joint end of an old bullnose shaft (I got from you) and welded it onto the 2009-14 lower shaft.

I also needed to weld the "double D" through bolt top end of my '87 shaft onto the U-joint shaft.

2) Cory said an '87-'91 shaft will fit a Bullnose. Again, the shaft I used was 2009-- 2014. not '87-'91.

[Rembrant]

2. In this post Cory said that later lower shaft is a direct swap for the Bullnose one. But that didn't work on your '87, Jim? What was different?

Hiya Gary,

The 1987-1991 steering shafts will swap right into a Bullnose. They're definitely better than the 1980-1986 steering shafts with the proper "dry" u-joint at the top, and the bonded rubber rag joint at the bottom. I installed one in my 1984 F150. I mainly did it because my bullnose upper joint rubber was ripped (like they all do eventually). Of course a Borgeson shaft is probably the best option, but it's expensive. The Bricknose steering shaft is a good upgrade piece imho.

PS: I got a used southern shaft from Steve83 that used to be on here. I think it was $15. Unfortunately, the spring in the slip joint was broken in about 3 pieces, and no matter how hard I tried I could not find a proper piece of metal to replace it with. I ended up welding a couple nuts on the sides of the shaft and put some set screws in to remove the slop.

 

[Gary Lewis]

2. In this post Cory said that later lower shaft is a direct swap for the Bullnose one. But that didn't work on your '87, Jim? What was different?

Hiya Gary,

The 1987-1991 steering shafts will swap right into a Bullnose. They're definitely better than the 1980-1986 steering shafts with the proper "dry" u-joint at the top, and the bonded rubber rag joint at the bottom. I installed one in my 1984 F150. I mainly did it because my bullnose upper joint rubber was ripped (like they all do eventually). Of course a Borgeson shaft is probably the best option, but it's expensive. The Bricknose steering shaft is a good upgrade piece imho.

PS: I got a used southern shaft from Steve83 that used to be on here. I think it was $15. Unfortunately, the spring in the slip joint was broken in about 3 pieces, and no matter how hard I tried I could not find a proper piece of metal to replace it with. I ended up welding a couple nuts on the sides of the shaft and put some set screws in to remove the slop.

Jim - I typed that this morning, hit Post, and walked out the door to church. Got halfway there and it hit me - I should have tagged you.

Guys - I think I'm starting to understand. But let me try this on you:

• Bullnose: Has the boot over the upper u-joint which usually (always?) splits and the rag joint at the bottom that gets sloppy. The one at the bottom of the pic below is a good example, although it lacks the splined piece that goes onto the steering box, and which may be in Connecticut.

• 87 - 91: A good upgrade over a Bullnose as it has an upper u-joint that needs no boot and a rag joint that is tighter and smaller - like the one in the middle in the pic below.

• 2009 - 2014: Has u-joints on both ends but won't fit onto either the Bullnose steering column output shaft nor the Bullnose steering box input shaft. So Jim cut the pinch bolt ends off of his 2009 - 14 shaft and welded ends on from earlier shafts that will fit the steering column and steering box shafts - and ensure they are properly phased to keep the steering wheel aligned with the wheels.

• Top Shaft: I have no idea what the top shaft in the pic is off of. But it has the same rag joint and splined end as the 87-91 shaft, although it very different at the top end - and that is bent.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I typed that this morning, hit Post, and walked out the door to church. Got halfway there and it hit me - I should have tagged you.

Guys - I think I'm starting to understand. But let me try this on you:

• Bullnose: Has the boot over the upper u-joint which usually (always?) splits and the rag joint at the bottom that gets sloppy. The one at the bottom of the pic below is a good example, although it lacks the splined piece that goes onto the steering box, and which may be in Connecticut.

• 87 - 91: A good upgrade over a Bullnose as it has an upper u-joint that needs no boot and a rag joint that is tighter and smaller - like the one in the middle in the pic below.

• 2009 - 2014: Has u-joints on both ends but won't fit onto either the Bullnose steering column output shaft nor the Bullnose steering box input shaft. So Jim cut the pinch bolt ends off of his 2009 - 14 shaft and welded ends on from earlier shafts that will fit the steering column and steering box shafts - and ensure they are properly phased to keep the steering wheel aligned with the wheels.

• Top Shaft: I have no idea what the top shaft in the pic is off of. But it has the same rag joint and splined end as the 87-91 shaft, although it very different at the top end - and that is bent.

That seems a good summary of what I did to make the '09 shaft center section fit my Bricknose.

It doesn't have any flat springs or plastic bushings in the telescoping section.

I'm also startled to recall that it was under $20 delivered (mentioned current cost to Rene)

The top one? I have no idea...

[Gary Lewis]

That seems a good summary of what I did to make the '09 shaft center section fit my Bricknose.

It doesn't have any flat springs or plastic bushings in the telescoping section.

I'm also startled to recall that it was under $20 delivered (mentioned current cost to Rene)

The top one? I have no idea...

Ok, thanks Jim. Now maybe I can translate my understanding to something someone else can grasp.

As for the top one, it's lower flange might be a good candidate to weld onto a 2009-14 shaft. No good for anything else given the bend.

[85lebaront2]

Ok, thanks Jim. Now maybe I can translate my understanding to something someone else can grasp.

As for the top one, it's lower flange might be a good candidate to weld onto a 2009-14 shaft. No good for anything else given the bend.

1992-1996/7 has U-joints at both ends and a slip section in the center. Due to the change to a stub column (FoMoCo universal column) one U-joint is inside the cab, the other is at the steering box. This design finally eliminated the "skewed" column that was in the 1980-1991 trucks. Here is the inside one on Darth:

Note the angle of the intermediate shaft and you can see the end of the outer portion in the firewall penetration.

[Gary Lewis]

1992-1996/7 has U-joints at both ends and a slip section in the center. Due to the change to a stub column (FoMoCo universal column) one U-joint is inside the cab, the other is at the steering box. This design finally eliminated the "skewed" column that was in the 1980-1991 trucks. Here is the inside one on Darth:

Note the angle of the intermediate shaft and you can see the end of the outer portion in the firewall penetration.

Bill - I'll bet the top one in my pic above is the 1992 + unit.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I'll bet the top one in my pic above is the 1992 + unit.

Ok guys, I modified the previous Rag Joint page to now be the Lower Steering Shaft page: Documentation/Steering/Lower Steering Shaft. Please take a look and let me know what you think.

However, I'm working in the background to get the picture sizes sorted, so I'm know that's messed up. What I'm really looking for is upgrades on the wording, flow, etc. PLEASE!

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I'll bet the top one in my pic above is the 1992 + unit.

No, because I am pretty sure mine has a U-joint at the box (one of the reasons I wanted that style). I may have to go look, the 1995 Body and Chassis volume shows a rubber coupling at the lower end. If my lowly K-Car has two U-joints in the steering shaft, shouldn't my truck have them too?