ckuske Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share Posted November 16, 2023 I'm sure you're the voice of reason in this situation. Hopefully I'll get it out completely today in between work calls. My plan (if it really is that bad) would be to repair the existing harness and use it as a reference when building the new one. Almost have everything disconnected. The connectors on the driver side wheel well - they were a pain. Of course I broke a couple tabs, etc.. But a wire broke right at where it enters these connectors. I was thinkning of replacing the "male" ends of these connectors (the male pins are recessed in a cavity) because like most of my other wiring, it is less than optimal. I can barely find any reference to these connectors in the MPC or really much of the internet, either. I'm hoping there is some tribal knowledge out there? D4AB-14A459-JB D4AB-14A459-HB D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) I can probably use them as is, except that one wire that broke right where it enters the shell - what a pain. I haven't tried to try and know if you can "de-pin' or remove that wire from the shell. The wire looks almost molded in to be waterproof so I'm not sure it can be removed. I don't have any material to work with to solder a new wire to it... Here's an example Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Almost have everything disconnected. The connectors on the driver side wheel well - they were a pain. Of course I broke a couple tabs, etc.. But a wire broke right at where it enters these connectors. I was thinkning of replacing the "male" ends of these connectors (the male pins are recessed in a cavity) because like most of my other wiring, it is less than optimal. I can barely find any reference to these connectors in the MPC or really much of the internet, either. I'm hoping there is some tribal knowledge out there? D4AB-14A459-JB D4AB-14A459-HB D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) I can probably use them as is, except that one wire that broke right where it enters the shell - what a pain. I haven't tried to try and know if you can "de-pin' or remove that wire from the shell. The wire looks almost molded in to be waterproof so I'm not sure it can be removed. I don't have any material to work with to solder a new wire to it... Here's an example You do know that any number ON a part is not a part number, right? If not go read the page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers. And now for the bad news. To convert ID #'s, like what you find on a part, I have to turn to Ford's master parts cross-reference catalog. Here's what I found: D4AB-14A459-JB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D4AB-14A459-HB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) You may not have gotten that one right as there's no reference to a 14A458. It jumps from 14457 to 14A459. However, all is not lost. Take a look at the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors and see if you can find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share Posted November 16, 2023 You do know that any number ON a part is not a part number, right? If not go read the page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers. And now for the bad news. To convert ID #'s, like what you find on a part, I have to turn to Ford's master parts cross-reference catalog. Here's what I found: D4AB-14A459-JB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D4AB-14A459-HB The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right) You may not have gotten that one right as there's no reference to a 14A458. It jumps from 14457 to 14A459. However, all is not lost. Take a look at the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors and see if you can find them. Hi Gary, Yep, I do. I know there is the engineering number and then what the REAL part number is. It’s always good to be reminded though, and to use the right nomenclature on my part. :) Ok, seems like I’ll need to figure out how to fix this bugger, or maybe make a trip out to the junkyard to look for an example in better shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Hi Gary, Yep, I do. I know there is the engineering number and then what the REAL part number is. It’s always good to be reminded though, and to use the right nomenclature on my part. :) Ok, seems like I’ll need to figure out how to fix this bugger, or maybe make a trip out to the junkyard to look for an example in better shape. Might you go to new weatherproof connectors? I know you'd have to change both sides, but it might be better than using old connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share Posted November 16, 2023 Might you go to new weatherproof connectors? I know you'd have to change both sides, but it might be better than using old connectors. Good idea, any suggestions on which to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Good idea, any suggestions on which to use? I'm using these on Big Blue. But then I ordered the crimper separate, so you might consider getting this package that appears to include the crimper. But others are using Weatherpack connectors, which are probably better - and cost a lot more. Just note in either case they aren't designed for a lot of current, just signals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 16, 2023 Author Share Posted November 16, 2023 I'm using these on Big Blue. But then I ordered the crimper separate, so you might consider getting this package that appears to include the crimper. But others are using Weatherpack connectors, which are probably better - and cost a lot more. Just note in either case they aren't designed for a lot of current, just signals. Much appreciated, thank you! As much as I'd like to keep everything original, I am willing to sacrifice here if it keeps things humming correctly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 Much appreciated, thank you! As much as I'd like to keep everything original, I am willing to sacrifice here if it keeps things humming correctly! I think these connectors are better than the ones used on Bullnose trucks, so I think they are an upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 17, 2023 Author Share Posted November 17, 2023 I think these connectors are better than the ones used on Bullnose trucks, so I think they are an upgrade. Yeah, these are pretty miserable to deal with. Function over form in this case! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckuske Posted November 18, 2023 Author Share Posted November 18, 2023 Yeah, these are pretty miserable to deal with. Function over form in this case! Ok, I'm sorry to be high maintenance here, but I am having a heck of a time getting the 1-wire O2 sensor plug to come apart. The main issue is getting the clips on each side of the plug to be pried up at the same time while I'm hanging over the passenger side fender. I get a screwdriver under one side, then rotate it to get a screwdriver under the other side and one pops out, etc. I've spent over an hour futzing with this connector and I'm about ready to just snap the clips off it, but I don't REALLY want to do that. I'd rather not reach down there ever again haha. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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