FuzzFace2 Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 Clutch pivot motor side. How it looked when I got the truck, years of no bushings did it in. What it looked like after the first fix. When it broke the first time. What it looked like after the 2nd fix along with the 2nd bolt, I cut the head off the 1stbolt and welded the threads to the ball. So when it broke this time the threaded part broke off from the ball, bad welding. So I took the 2nd bolt drilled down the center, cut the head off and drilled the center of the ball and drove a roll pin thru it. Welded up and ground & filed to fit the block. Not pretty but should not break again. All the parts and put together. For got to get a picture ofit in place. Dave ---- After the clutch linkage fix I moved onto the brake issue. Changed out the booster and master bled the brakes looked over everything and the pedal is still low and mushy and will not pump up. Going to try and bleed them with the motor running in the morning and hope that helps. I also have a post started of the brakes to see if someone can come up with something I missed. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 After the clutch linkage fix I moved onto the brake issue. Changed out the booster and master bled the brakes looked over everything and the pedal is still low and mushy and will not pump up. Going to try and bleed them with the motor running in the morning and hope that helps. I also have a post started of the brakes to see if someone can come up with something I missed. Dave ---- Well after playing with the brakes again and failing to get a good pedal, it stops, will not lock up, feels mushy and low pedal, I figured that is the best it will be for this trip to the show. Wife is not happy and does not want me to take it. Told her it was in much better shape now than when I bought it and I was going to drive it home then. So it got its first wash to get the dust off mostly then dried it, cant have water spots can we? First stop, 1/4 mile to the gas station to top off the tanks. Got to say the gas went in pretty fast, did not try as fast as it could go just medium and no issues. The rear tank gauge is not working and a quick look where it plugs in at the tank is a bear to get to and could not get test light to go thru a wire to see if it had power so I left it for another day. Front tank gauge works so will run the rear empty and use the front so I can drop the rear as I think the float took a dump. Wife is still not happy, what if we break down or flip over etc! I asked about towing AARP, I stand more chance of rolling my work truck than this one. I did pack some tools just in case, did forget a fire ext. will see if the parts store has one next time there. At first I cant shift this thing! You would think I did not know how to drive a stick. Because the T18 shifts like my work truck I keep wanting to float the gears and you cant do it in this truck. Also with out over drive it does sound like it is spinning high about 2000 RPM, no working speedo yet, but after a while never gave it another thought. The truck does wander some but wonder if it is because of the tight kingpins as the wheel will not return to center or if the aliment is off? Also wonder if the box needs to be looked into or it is because I am use to R & P steering? Made it to the show and hour late because of working on the brakes, but no issues going or coming home. Truck was well liked, there was a Lighting there and a 53 Chev p/u nicely done up. looked stock on the out side but had a small block & OD auto, Camaro front clip, AC, Radio. On the way home did not hear the motor spinning high but the RPM was the same and the shifting was easier as I get use to the truck. It was about 70 miles round trip, at about 10 miles in (going & coming) a hear a squeak when moving but goes away when stopped for a bit (3 hours at show) like it cools off? Have to look into the speedo and rear tank gauge not working and at the top of the list the low brake pedal. I forgot to get a picture or 2 when at the show, as they say no picture or it did not happen but it did, you can call home and ask my wife! I will take it out tomorrow to have keys made and turn in a core battery and the booster and check what can be done about the master. I don't want to take it out and not have another to put in on hand as it will let air & water into the system. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Well after playing with the brakes again and failing to get a good pedal, it stops, will not lock up, feels mushy and low pedal, I figured that is the best it will be for this trip to the show. Wife is not happy and does not want me to take it. Told her it was in much better shape now than when I bought it and I was going to drive it home then. So it got its first wash to get the dust off mostly then dried it, cant have water spots can we? First stop, 1/4 mile to the gas station to top off the tanks. Got to say the gas went in pretty fast, did not try as fast as it could go just medium and no issues. The rear tank gauge is not working and a quick look where it plugs in at the tank is a bear to get to and could not get test light to go thru a wire to see if it had power so I left it for another day. Front tank gauge works so will run the rear empty and use the front so I can drop the rear as I think the float took a dump. Wife is still not happy, what if we break down or flip over etc! I asked about towing AARP, I stand more chance of rolling my work truck than this one. I did pack some tools just in case, did forget a fire ext. will see if the parts store has one next time there. At first I cant shift this thing! You would think I did not know how to drive a stick. Because the T18 shifts like my work truck I keep wanting to float the gears and you cant do it in this truck. Also with out over drive it does sound like it is spinning high about 2000 RPM, no working speedo yet, but after a while never gave it another thought. The truck does wander some but wonder if it is because of the tight kingpins as the wheel will not return to center or if the aliment is off? Also wonder if the box needs to be looked into or it is because I am use to R & P steering? Made it to the show and hour late because of working on the brakes, but no issues going or coming home. Truck was well liked, there was a Lighting there and a 53 Chev p/u nicely done up. looked stock on the out side but had a small block & OD auto, Camaro front clip, AC, Radio. On the way home did not hear the motor spinning high but the RPM was the same and the shifting was easier as I get use to the truck. It was about 70 miles round trip, at about 10 miles in (going & coming) a hear a squeak when moving but goes away when stopped for a bit (3 hours at show) like it cools off? Have to look into the speedo and rear tank gauge not working and at the top of the list the low brake pedal. I forgot to get a picture or 2 when at the show, as they say no picture or it did not happen but it did, you can call home and ask my wife! I will take it out tomorrow to have keys made and turn in a core battery and the booster and check what can be done about the master. I don't want to take it out and not have another to put in on hand as it will let air & water into the system. Dave ---- Congrat's!!!!!!! Yes, you still have some niggles to iron out, but IT DRIVES!!!! Well done!!!!! I have no clue about king pins, but I would think that them being tight would take the "feel" out of driving and make it tough. I know that I've tried adjusting the steering box on a couple of trucks and that sure took the feel out. On the brakes it sounds like you have a bad master cylinder. But these niggles can, and will be, resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 Congrat's!!!!!!! Yes, you still have some niggles to iron out, but IT DRIVES!!!! Well done!!!!! I have no clue about king pins, but I would think that them being tight would take the "feel" out of driving and make it tough. I know that I've tried adjusting the steering box on a couple of trucks and that sure took the feel out. On the brakes it sounds like you have a bad master cylinder. But these niggles can, and will be, resolved. Yep the "fine tuning" is all it needs now LOL I need to check the box for play, if I can remember I will look at it tomorrow. On the brakes I am going to try and build a cheap pressure bleed system as my son thinks it still has air in the system. Thing is if it did have air I would think the pedal would pump up no? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 Congrat's!!!!!!! Yes, you still have some niggles to iron out, but IT DRIVES!!!! Well done!!!!! I have no clue about king pins, but I would think that them being tight would take the "feel" out of driving and make it tough. I know that I've tried adjusting the steering box on a couple of trucks and that sure took the feel out. On the brakes it sounds like you have a bad master cylinder. But these niggles can, and will be, resolved. Yep the "fine tuning" is all it needs now LOL I need to check the box for play, if I can remember I will look at it tomorrow. On the brakes I am going to try and build a cheap pressure bleed system as my son thinks it still has air in the system. Thing is if it did have air I would think the pedal would pump up no? Dave ---- Yes, I think the pedal would pump up, but it would be very soft as you compress the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 Yes, I think the pedal would pump up, but it would be very soft as you compress the air. Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ---- As said on the other thread, you are amazing! That's a lot of work. Hope it resolves the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 As said on the other thread, you are amazing! That's a lot of work. Hope it resolves the problem. You and me both I want good brakes! I started this bleeder for my 70 AMC Javelin as I did a disc brake swap from the stock non-vented rotors and duel piston calipers (cant get parts for them, 3 year only option) for later year vented single pistons calipers that I can get parts for. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 As said on the other thread, you are amazing! That's a lot of work. Hope it resolves the problem. You and me both I want good brakes! I started this bleeder for my 70 AMC Javelin as I did a disc brake swap from the stock non-vented rotors and duel piston calipers (cant get parts for them, 3 year only option) for later year vented single pistons calipers that I can get parts for. Dave ---- Truck will be fully legal the next time out. I had insurance, email on phone when I went to the show last weekend. Got the cards in the mail and found out I have Hagerty classic car insurance. If the truck gets wiped out I get $11,000 at this time but can up that when I get the truck appraised. They also let you drive the car / truck not just on weekends to shows or to get it worked on, they want you show if off! $500 deductible and runs under $500 for the year. So with insurance cards in hand I hit the DMV on the way home and picked up a plate. I got lucky as there was only 1 other person there and was out is 20 min. and that was BS'ing with the lady that was from CT. Plan is to work on the brakes over the weekend to get the pedal to be firm. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 Truck will be fully legal the next time out. I had insurance, email on phone when I went to the show last weekend. Got the cards in the mail and found out I have Hagerty classic car insurance. If the truck gets wiped out I get $11,000 at this time but can up that when I get the truck appraised. They also let you drive the car / truck not just on weekends to shows or to get it worked on, they want you show if off! $500 deductible and runs under $500 for the year. So with insurance cards in hand I hit the DMV on the way home and picked up a plate. I got lucky as there was only 1 other person there and was out is 20 min. and that was BS'ing with the lady that was from CT. Plan is to work on the brakes over the weekend to get the pedal to be firm. Dave ---- Excellent! I plan to check them out for my trucks as well. No way will I accept the market value for them. Good luck on the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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