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81 F100 flare side custom with 300 six & T18


FuzzFace2

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I kinda like the blackout approach. Black bumpers, black grille, black windshield surround, etc.

With all the cars & trucks today not having any chrome I want to try and keep it.

I still have time before I need to install them so I will see what options I have after I prep them better and talk to this last person.

Dave ----

Bumper color idea

front_finished_pic.jpg.901c45456b95e4428a32da22e0499a72.jpg

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Bumper color idea

front_finished_pic.jpg

Pete is that silver to match the grille or white to match the body?

I have been thinking silver but also a spray chrome from a can.

I hear if you can lay down some nice mirror finish black then the chrome paint they say looks pretty good.

I also have the last guy to call. Also been thinking of a brushed Alum. wrap, it would look like some of the late 70's 5MPH GM bumpers.

But before I do anything I need to prep the bumpers better even for paint if that is how I go.

Oh BTW love the floating grille and older head light doors it looks really good.

Dave ----

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May need to rethink the bumper wrap.

I hit 3 places, first said he did not want to try it because of some of the bends / corners.

They sent me to a place that does not do wraps who sent me to the 3rd.

It looks good if I want to do it in anything but chrome. The girl that does the wrapping, owners daughter, has not worked with chrome and did not want to give it a try.

Owner was all for giving it a try but was up to her. They did say it scratches easy so would need a film cover over it.

They gave me a number to a guy that does full color change on cars, most I checked with said I need to find a place that does full color change wraps. But if I want to do any other color for the wrap they would do it.

I also was told the finish on the bumpers needs to be better before they can be wrapped.

It is like body work before paint, all nicks and sanding marks need not seen or felt.

I will do a little more prep on them and check with this last person to see what he has to say but they may get painted as it will be about $200 to $250 to wrap them.

Dave ----

Good news the parts, intake / exh. gasket & freeze plugs, I ordered came in so I can work on the truck this weekend.

Bad news I don't think the plugs are the right ones.

There are only 3 in the kit but I count 5 in a picture I have and I think they are the wrong size.

The quick measurement I got 1-1/2" and they sent 1-5/8" plugs.

We will see when I get into it I guess.

Dave ----

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Good news the parts, intake / exh. gasket & freeze plugs, I ordered came in so I can work on the truck this weekend.

Bad news I don't think the plugs are the right ones.

There are only 3 in the kit but I count 5 in a picture I have and I think they are the wrong size.

The quick measurement I got 1-1/2" and they sent 1-5/8" plugs.

We will see when I get into it I guess.

Dave ----

It is always a huge bummer when you get the wrong parts after waiting for them. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Don't the parts stores have some?

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It is always a huge bummer when you get the wrong parts after waiting for them. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Don't the parts stores have some?

See below ;)

I hit the garage at 6am to get some information for another member and then got working on the truck.

I pulled the manifolds off so I had access to the 5 freeze plugs. 1 had a rubber one and another was leaking from rusting out.

Because of the rusted one I waned to replace them all.

The kit I got from Rock Auto only came with 3 of the 5 plugs I needed so had to hit the local parts house and got the last 2 they had.

Then the fun started how to get the old plug out? I started with the rubber one man I had to fight to get it out. I did not want to knock the others into the block.

Started on the rusted one and after it fell apart but still had the outer ring on the block how to get this out? Using a flat punch I was able to move it yep into the block!

A little work and I was able to get it out of the block. I removed the rest the same way, knock into the block and using vice grips to pull them out worked pretty good.

I then took a find grinding stone on a drill and cleaned up the openings of the freeze plugs.

Then the next fun started coat the openings and the edges of the new plugs with

09-28500.jpg.70ee5d3f78e72c563d37a71a99c0fd76.jpg

This stuff is almost as bad as never seize, it gets all over you and it is sticky!

I used a big socket to get the plugs started and used the hammer to drive them flush with the block then back to the socket to drive them in a little more like the old ones were.

I do have a bearing / seal driver but the drives would not fit right and the bolt that holds them to the handle would hit the plug and why the socket.

Being on a roll I got the gasket areas cleaned and remounted the manifolds. Yep fun with EFI exh. manifolds and no helping hands to hold the EFI when tightening nuts.

Speaking of thick washers & nuts I have 1 of each left over. I checked 100 time and cant find where it goes? I have to check old pictures and see if I can find where it goes.

I got everything back together but the air filter, a vacuum line or 2 and coolant as I wanted the sealer to set up some before I filled it backup.

When almost done I hit the vacuum line to the carb bowl vent and the check valve? fell apart. I heard something hit the floor but could not find it when I looked. I have the spring part but think there is a washer type thing missing so will have to deal with that.

all of this was done by 2pm and that includes the parts store run and taking the trash to the dump.

Tomorrow I want to fill it with coolant, see if I can find where this washer & nut goes and fix the bowl vent thing.

Dave ----

 

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It is always a huge bummer when you get the wrong parts after waiting for them. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Don't the parts stores have some?

See below ;)

I hit the garage at 6am to get some information for another member and then got working on the truck.

I pulled the manifolds off so I had access to the 5 freeze plugs. 1 had a rubber one and another was leaking from rusting out.

Because of the rusted one I waned to replace them all.

The kit I got from Rock Auto only came with 3 of the 5 plugs I needed so had to hit the local parts house and got the last 2 they had.

Then the fun started how to get the old plug out? I started with the rubber one man I had to fight to get it out. I did not want to knock the others into the block.

Started on the rusted one and after it fell apart but still had the outer ring on the block how to get this out? Using a flat punch I was able to move it yep into the block!

A little work and I was able to get it out of the block. I removed the rest the same way, knock into the block and using vice grips to pull them out worked pretty good.

I then took a find grinding stone on a drill and cleaned up the openings of the freeze plugs.

Then the next fun started coat the openings and the edges of the new plugs with

This stuff is almost as bad as never seize, it gets all over you and it is sticky!

I used a big socket to get the plugs started and used the hammer to drive them flush with the block then back to the socket to drive them in a little more like the old ones were.

I do have a bearing / seal driver but the drives would not fit right and the bolt that holds them to the handle would hit the plug and why the socket.

Being on a roll I got the gasket areas cleaned and remounted the manifolds. Yep fun with EFI exh. manifolds and no helping hands to hold the EFI when tightening nuts.

Speaking of thick washers & nuts I have 1 of each left over. I checked 100 time and cant find where it goes? I have to check old pictures and see if I can find where it goes.

I got everything back together but the air filter, a vacuum line or 2 and coolant as I wanted the sealer to set up some before I filled it backup.

When almost done I hit the vacuum line to the carb bowl vent and the check valve? fell apart. I heard something hit the floor but could not find it when I looked. I have the spring part but think there is a washer type thing missing so will have to deal with that.

all of this was done by 2pm and that includes the parts store run and taking the trash to the dump.

Tomorrow I want to fill it with coolant, see if I can find where this washer & nut goes and fix the bowl vent thing.

Dave ----

Well done! :nabble_anim_claps:

That Permatex is what I like to use on soft plugs. But you are right, once it is on you it is hard to get off.

As for getting the old ones out, I've been successful punching through them with a pry bar close to one edge, then using it to pry that edge out, and use the vise grips to bring the rest out. But whatever works.

I have no clue on the extra nut and bolt, but on the check valve, post a pic of what it looks like as I may have one. MAY.

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Well done! :nabble_anim_claps:

That Permatex is what I like to use on soft plugs. But you are right, once it is on you it is hard to get off.

As for getting the old ones out, I've been successful punching through them with a pry bar close to one edge, then using it to pry that edge out, and use the vise grips to bring the rest out. But whatever works.

I have no clue on the extra nut and bolt, but on the check valve, post a pic of what it looks like as I may have one. MAY.

Found & fixed 2 things this morning.

When you have a pan under the motor with oil or coolant and you drop something up top guess where it ends up? Yep in that pan.

When putting the coolant back in I found the metal disc that fell out of the carb bowl vent check valve, so that is back together.

After looking at pictures of how many bolts hold the manifolds on I counted 13. Checking the motor again for the 900th time I come up with 12?

I found the lonely stud on the bottom row under the carb base a PITA to see and to get the washer & nut back on but it is done.

Once topped up with coolant I need to recheck everything and can start it and make sure all is good.

Get it up to temp and see about moving it closer to a house so I can rinse off the coolant that spilled when the funnel tipped over.

The plug that was rusted had no center left when I started to work on it. I did try to pry it out but was worried I would mark the sealing area of the block.

I then gave your way a try on the next good one and that one pushed in. Being the rusted one did the same and came out with vice grips I gave it a try and out it came. So it was game on the same way for the rest.

Dave ----

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Found & fixed 2 things this morning.

When you have a pan under the motor with oil or coolant and you drop something up top guess where it ends up? Yep in that pan.

When putting the coolant back in I found the metal disc that fell out of the carb bowl vent check valve, so that is back together.

After looking at pictures of how many bolts hold the manifolds on I counted 13. Checking the motor again for the 900th time I come up with 12?

I found the lonely stud on the bottom row under the carb base a PITA to see and to get the washer & nut back on but it is done.

Once topped up with coolant I need to recheck everything and can start it and make sure all is good.

Get it up to temp and see about moving it closer to a house so I can rinse off the coolant that spilled when the funnel tipped over.

The plug that was rusted had no center left when I started to work on it. I did try to pry it out but was worried I would mark the sealing area of the block.

I then gave your way a try on the next good one and that one pushed in. Being the rusted one did the same and came out with vice grips I gave it a try and out it came. So it was game on the same way for the rest.

Dave ----

Well 1 step forward 3 back!

Got it running and it has a miss? That strange because it never did before.

Top up coolant stat opens a few times and gauge reads just below the half way mark, good in my book.

Pull out the can of carb clean and find the #1 intake port is not sealing, Like WTH!

Everything was clean of old gasket, new gasket looked good before I placed it on the studs so why this?

So I picked up the speed dry I had down on the spilled coolant so the dogs would not get it, pulled the POS back in the garage and called it a day, maybe a week or a month!

I am beginning to hate this truck and because you have to lean over the fender to fix this it has to be done before paint. Should do the AC for the same reason but low funds right now for that to happen.

Dave ----

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Well 1 step forward 3 back!

Got it running and it has a miss? That strange because it never did before.

Top up coolant stat opens a few times and gauge reads just below the half way mark, good in my book.

Pull out the can of carb clean and find the #1 intake port is not sealing, Like WTH!

Everything was clean of old gasket, new gasket looked good before I placed it on the studs so why this?

So I picked up the speed dry I had down on the spilled coolant so the dogs would not get it, pulled the POS back in the garage and called it a day, maybe a week or a month!

I am beginning to hate this truck and because you have to lean over the fender to fix this it has to be done before paint. Should do the AC for the same reason but low funds right now for that to happen.

Dave ----

I think you have poor math. I count several steps forward and only one back - the intake leak. :nabble_anim_blbl:

But, I do know the feeling. And when I get "there" it is time for a break from the truck, or the shop, or ..... And a few days later things look a whole lot better. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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I think you have poor math. I count several steps forward and only one back - the intake leak. :nabble_anim_blbl:

But, I do know the feeling. And when I get "there" it is time for a break from the truck, or the shop, or ..... And a few days later things look a whole lot better. :nabble_smiley_wink:

I think I will get another gasket just in case and over the holiday weekend see about trying to fix that leak.

Going to try and see if I can loosen the manifolds move them, intake mostly, and tighten the bolts and see what happens.

If no go then I have the gasket so I can rip it all apart to replace the gasket.

Wish me luck.

Dave ----

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