mp470 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 This truck has quite low mileage (171,000km, ~106,000mi) if the odometer is correct. It did sit for long periods of time. Since I did the oil and filter, I drove about 800km (~500mi) and on the way back home this weekend, got too low on oil as the engine started clattering a bit. It was short about 3.5qts. I'm not rebuilding this engine as I have neither the shop, nor the tools. I did put 5w30 in there and I know that was a mistake. Any suggestions? Lucas oil additive and all that? Thicker oil? There is a slight leak at the crank seal (how bad are these to replace?) but not enough to lose large amounts like that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Do you think it burned the oil or leaked it? Lots of blue smoke? You might want to run a compression test. If the engine sat a long time the valve stem oil shields may be brittle and not sealing right, and other engine seals might be in poor condition as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Do you think it burned the oil or leaked it? Lots of blue smoke? You might want to run a compression test. If the engine sat a long time the valve stem oil shields may be brittle and not sealing right, and other engine seals might be in poor condition as well. Yes, the seals may be a big part of the cause. But they may soften up some. Or, you might use a seal-sweller additive. As for oil, try a straight 30W if you can find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mp470 Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 Do you think it burned the oil or leaked it? Lots of blue smoke? You might want to run a compression test. If the engine sat a long time the valve stem oil shields may be brittle and not sealing right, and other engine seals might be in poor condition as well. Blue smoke for sure but only ever at idle and not in large amounts. The area underneath the crank pulley is wet most of the time but I've never seen any puddles underneath. I haven't got around to a compression test yet, I have a feeling that will tell me everything I need to know. For now I threw half a quart of Duralube Engine Treatment in there. We'll see if it does anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Blue smoke for sure but only ever at idle and not in large amounts. The area underneath the crank pulley is wet most of the time but I've never seen any puddles underneath. I haven't got around to a compression test yet, I have a feeling that will tell me everything I need to know. For now I threw half a quart of Duralube Engine Treatment in there. We'll see if it does anything. The catalytic converter is apparently working, and eating most of the smoke. But you will probably see a lot more smoke in the first minute or sonthe engine is running as the cat won't be up to temp. As for drips, if the leak is at the front seal the oil gets thrown far and wide by the crank and the harmonic balancer. So the only time it drips is the little bit that is still on the back of the balancer when you stop. But I'm not sure Duralube will help. What little I read of it suggests it is more for lowering friction than sealing leaks. Something like Bar's Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair would be what I would use. Speaking of which, why don't I? Big Blue leaks, so I guess I'd better take my own advice. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 But I'm not sure Duralube will help. What little I read of it suggests it is more for lowering friction than sealing leaks. Something like Bar's Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair would be what I would use. Speaking of which, why don't I? Big Blue leaks, so I guess I'd better take my own advice. 460's are notorious for main seal leaks. A little bit of glycol brake fluid in the oil will soften and swell them but it is not a long term fix. Jon Kaase is now selling a 'one piece' RMS for the 460 that is not supposed to leak, but it is $$$. I imagine if you figured how many quarts of oil it saved you and how much time you put into cleaning the engine, driveway, or replacing the clutch because it got wet you would be way ahead of the game. Edit=spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 But I'm not sure Duralube will help. What little I read of it suggests it is more for lowering friction than sealing leaks. Something like Bar's Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair would be what I would use. Speaking of which, why don't I? Big Blue leaks, so I guess I'd better take my own advice. 460's are notorious for main seal leaks. A little bit of glycol brake fluid in the oil will soften and swell them but it is not a long term fix. Jon Kaase is now selling a 'one piece' RMS for the 460 that is not supposed to leak, but it is $$$. I imagine if you figured how many quarts of oil it saved you and how much time you put into cleaning the engine, driveway, or replacing the clutch because it got wet you would be way ahead of the game. Edit=spelling Is there any machining needing to be done to use the one-piece RMS? I could install it when I install the new pan and do all the other work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Is there any machining needing to be done to use the one-piece RMS? I could install it when I install the new pan and do all the other work. Goes right in the same slot. Obviously due to the flanged crank it needs to go in as the crank is installed -and the reason I put 'one piece' in apostrophes- The seal is $66, but reports are very positive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Goes right in the same slot. Obviously due to the flanged crank it needs to go in as the crank is installed -and the reason I put 'one piece' in apostrophes- The seal is $66, but reports are very positive. I found this about the seal. I think I'll give it a try when the time comes. Thanks! Edit: And this http://jonkaaseracingengines.com/kaase-releases-new-big-block-ford-rear-seal/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 3.5 quarts in 500 miles??? Have you checked for suction at the PCV valve? Sometimes the tube going to the carb flange is completely filled with cack. Maybe your rings are sticking from sitting? I would run a quart of Rislone or ATF before the next oil change and use high detergent diesel oil from here on out. My truck hit 430,000 yesterday and that means I have ~150,000 mi on this engine. Always using cheap diesel oil and a Motorcraft FL1A it was amazingly clean inside when i swapped valve covers a week or two ago. Do the cheap stuff first, before condemning the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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