Ifitaintbroke Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Does he still have them ground by Delta? Yes. I got the notched lifters also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Yes. I got the notched lifters also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 As far as the power steering is concerned, I've got the truck jacked up and tried to bleed the system again. One of my coworkers, who used to be a Ford dealership mechanic, said that sometimes air in the system can cause it to blow the fluid out. He said what they used to do at the dealership was to turn it lock to lock several times, then leave it for several hours while at one lock. I left it over night, so we'll see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 Yes, the cam is a custom grind. 508 intake 541 exhaust 114 lsa. Break in went well. According to Scotty, the break in oil should be left in for 100 miles. Only got 98 to go. Thats great!! BTW, I also noticed some troubles you had with the timing and start. Just wanted to share a similar problem I had. A new-to-me 460 wouldn't fire with the key (hard and slow cranks) but if I jumped the started solenoid it would turn just fine (with key off). With key ON even the starter solenoid wouldn't cause the motor to turn. Turns out the distributor was too advanced, where the spark would ignite upon start and cause the motor to fight the starter. Also, the duraspark 2 system has a white wire, which receives power on "Start" only to combat some of this by someone had bypassed this before my time! With white wire operational, it would cause the spark to be retarded at "Start" only. Not sure if MSD has a provision for this. Interested to hear more on PS pump. I'm fixing to start up a truck so any lessons learned are valuable :) :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Thats great!! BTW, I also noticed some troubles you had with the timing and start. Just wanted to share a similar problem I had. A new-to-me 460 wouldn't fire with the key (hard and slow cranks) but if I jumped the started solenoid it would turn just fine (with key off). With key ON even the starter solenoid wouldn't cause the motor to turn. Turns out the distributor was too advanced, where the spark would ignite upon start and cause the motor to fight the starter. Also, the duraspark 2 system has a white wire, which receives power on "Start" only to combat some of this by someone had bypassed this before my time! With white wire operational, it would cause the spark to be retarded at "Start" only. Not sure if MSD has a provision for this. Interested to hear more on PS pump. I'm fixing to start up a truck so any lessons learned are valuable :) :) My problem ended up being the opposite. I had the dizzy too far retarded. So far that it wouldn't even try to start. Turned over fine, but would not start. Now I'm just trying to get it to idle good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Okay, I realize that everything is relative. 😉 I REALLY hope it's something as simple as a pinched return. Please let us know what you find! Turns out it was just the outlet fitting on the pump. With the engine running, and wheel not being turned, no fluid leaking. But, as soon as the wheel is turned, fluid started shooting out from the fitting. Which makes sense, as, from what I understand, the scenario producing the highest line pressure is wheels being turned with the truck parked. I tightened the fitting but have not done any more testing yet. In other news, it appears the brand new rear main is already leaking! I bought quite literally the most expensive 460 rear main seal IN THE WORLD, and had a professional machinist install it. Not. Happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Turns out it was just the outlet fitting on the pump. With the engine running, and wheel not being turned, no fluid leaking. But, as soon as the wheel is turned, fluid started shooting out from the fitting. Which makes sense, as, from what I understand, the scenario producing the highest line pressure is wheels being turned with the truck parked. I tightened the fitting but have not done any more testing yet. In other news, it appears the brand new rear main is already leaking! I bought quite literally the most expensive 460 rear main seal IN THE WORLD, and had a professional machinist install it. Not. Happy. Are you sure the leak is not from the driver side upper bellhousing bolt that runs into the valley or from the oil pan ? What are the symptoms (leaking after a drive or while idling ?) and how much oil pressure are you running ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Are you sure the leak is not from the driver side upper bellhousing bolt that runs into the valley or from the oil pan ? What are the symptoms (leaking after a drive or while idling ?) and how much oil pressure are you running ? Oil pressure is over 60 at first start up, runs close to 50 at idle when warmed up. I didn't think of the bellhousing bolt. When I've run it for a while, there's a little bit of oil coming straight down from the middle of the engine, on the spacer plate thing. Oil pan is not likely as I have a one piece rubber gasket and the high torque gray permatex in the corners. I'll check the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Oil pressure is over 60 at first start up, runs close to 50 at idle when warmed up. I didn't think of the bellhousing bolt. When I've run it for a while, there's a little bit of oil coming straight down from the middle of the engine, on the spacer plate thing. Oil pan is not likely as I have a one piece rubber gasket and the high torque gray permatex in the corners. I'll check the bolt. was the rear main main cap sealed to the block with rtv or even thread seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Oil pressure is over 60 at first start up, runs close to 50 at idle when warmed up. I didn't think of the bellhousing bolt. When I've run it for a while, there's a little bit of oil coming straight down from the middle of the engine, on the spacer plate thing. Oil pan is not likely as I have a one piece rubber gasket and the high torque gray permatex in the corners. I'll check the bolt. Wow that's a lot of oil pressure when warm If you didn't use thread sealer on that bolt, it is a leak possibility. Small but definite leak. True rear main leaks can be large puddles after drive and oil loss of a quart in 100 miles. Mine was that bad. When I redid mine, I saw why it leaked. The seal halves were installed by someone flush with the block, instead of the customary 3/8 inch overlap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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