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Yes it was from a backfire, but the dizzy is correctly placed. I had the valve covers off, turned it until the number 1 intake valve closed, and then to TDC. Then dropped dizzy with rotor pointing at number 1. As far as Holleys go, I know they are a good carb, or people wouldn't still be using them after however many decades. I had a "sure nuff" built 4180 that I wanted to put on the 460 but gave it to a friend who was I having carb problems on his 460. I'm just frustrated at how easily they leak.

Mine's been tight for 13 years.

Use the blue gaskets and don't over torque the screws and warp the body or strip the threads

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Yes it was from a backfire, but the dizzy is correctly placed. I had the valve covers off, turned it until the number 1 intake valve closed, and then to TDC. Then dropped dizzy with rotor pointing at number 1. As far as Holleys go, I know they are a good carb, or people wouldn't still be using them after however many decades. I had a "sure nuff" built 4180 that I wanted to put on the 460 but gave it to a friend who was I having carb problems on his 460. I'm just frustrated at how easily they leak.

are you having internal or external leaking?

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not to split hairs but that's not a leak but an overly rich setting.

In that case it actually was a leak. The float was so high the fuel level was above the level of the boosters. Tilt the carb back and it would just run out the boosters.

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In that case it actually was a leak. The float was so high the fuel level was above the level of the boosters. Tilt the carb back and it would just run out the boosters.

are you setting the float level using the bowl screw on the passenger side? another possibility could be the o ring on the inlet valve itself. if these set too long they get set in their ways. once disturbed ,even by making an adjustment they can crack and start to leak fuel passed the needle and seat.

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are you setting the float level using the bowl screw on the passenger side? another possibility could be the o ring on the inlet valve itself. if these set too long they get set in their ways. once disturbed ,even by making an adjustment they can crack and start to leak fuel passed the needle and seat.

I'll remember that. But the o rings are new. I usually set the float by taking the bowl off and lining the float up with the casting of the bowl. If that makes sense. I'm not good at describing things. :nabble_smiley_teeth:

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I'll remember that. But the o rings are new. I usually set the float by taking the bowl off and lining the float up with the casting of the bowl. If that makes sense. I'm not good at describing things. :nabble_smiley_teeth:

that may be a good start. but if we are talking about an 1850 or 3310 the next step is to remove the bowl screw and set the float level just to where the fuel is right at the bottom about to trickle out. using the preset method relies on the bouyancy of the float and no two are the same.you may just find a very high setting.

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that may be a good start. but if we are talking about an 1850 or 3310 the next step is to remove the bowl screw and set the float level just to where the fuel is right at the bottom about to trickle out. using the preset method relies on the bouyancy of the float and no two are the same.you may just find a very high setting.

Good info. I'll try that. By just trickling out you mean out of the sight plug, right?

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Good info. I'll try that. By just trickling out you mean out of the sight plug, right?

yes. it can get more involved with many different opinions on fine tuning yet the basic is just to the point of trickling out the screw hole. this is THE reason for this screw. in fact, they even made clear plastic threaded plugs for those who wanted to run a higher level and be able to see it without spilling fuel. but that gets into "other opinions".

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