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Build update 2


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Wait!

The starter solenoid wouldn't throw if it wasn't getting triggered.

YOU have a problem with the starter cable or the little braided tail that goes from the hot stud that the cable attaches to into the starter.....

Problem was battery terminal corrosion. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

Engine turns over fine when jumping the solenoid terminals. Still no power from switch though. Jim, you might need to explain that a little more. It's acting exactly like if you tried to start it without pushing the clutch in. Wonder if I left that loose somehow.

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Problem was battery terminal corrosion. :nabble_smiley_whistling:

Engine turns over fine when jumping the solenoid terminals. Still no power from switch though. Jim, you might need to explain that a little more. It's acting exactly like if you tried to start it without pushing the clutch in. Wonder if I left that loose somehow.

1st, the clutch switch can come out of adjustment.

Slide the plastic block down the toothed rod and when you next step on the pedal it will sound like it's breaking.

Suggestion: hold the key forward to start and THEN step on the clutch.

If you think the switch is bad, un plug it and plug a spare fuse into the harness side.

It could also be the transmission end of the starter safety loop.

Without a range switch it should be jumpered.

Let me find the diagram.... BRB

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1st, the clutch switch can come out of adjustment.

Slide the plastic block down the toothed rod and when you next step on the pedal it will sound like it's breaking.

Suggestion: hold the key forward to start and THEN step on the clutch.

If you think the switch is bad, un plug it and plug a spare fuse into the harness side.

It could also be the transmission end of the starter safety loop.

Without a range switch it should be jumpered.

Let me find the diagram.... BRB

Another consideration: I just changed the steering column. Could the ignition switch being out of adjustment cause this? I feel like it's getting full swing because when I turn the key to start all my gauges lose power, as they are supposed to.

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1st, the clutch switch can come out of adjustment.

Slide the plastic block down the toothed rod and when you next step on the pedal it will sound like it's breaking.

Suggestion: hold the key forward to start and THEN step on the clutch.

If you think the switch is bad, un plug it and plug a spare fuse into the harness side.

It could also be the transmission end of the starter safety loop.

Without a range switch it should be jumpered.

Let me find the diagram.... BRB

1986-bronco-f150-350-evtmjpg-page28-wrong_orig.thumb.jpg.c9ddbc21b932791a3723f1c760f3ae6c.jpg

8895698_orig.thumb.jpg.11066afa470a5143ad90b89c367d10c6.jpg

You should have the R/LB wire on the right option of the left (manual) diagram on the second page (pg30) between connector 121 and 128.

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Another consideration: I just changed the steering column. Could the ignition switch being out of adjustment cause this? I feel like it's getting full swing because when I turn the key to start all my gauges lose power, as they are supposed to.

You can set the ignition switch by loosening the two 10mm nuts and inserting a pin through the hole in it before tightening them back down.

Gary has photos and step by step somewhere here on the forum.

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Another consideration: I just changed the steering column. Could the ignition switch being out of adjustment cause this? I feel like it's getting full swing because when I turn the key to start all my gauges lose power, as they are supposed to.

this possible when it comes to the solenoid operating from the ignition switch yet not from jumping the solenoid. key on and jump the solenoid and the engine should start. if not then you are not getting voltage or ground to starter. assuming good starter and a turn able engine

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this possible when it comes to the solenoid operating from the ignition switch yet not from jumping the solenoid. key on and jump the solenoid and the engine should start. if not then you are not getting voltage or ground to starter. assuming good starter and a turn able engine

Problem was the ignition switch. I just pulled it back some it now it works fine. Problem now is that I don't have any oil pressure! :nabble_smiley_hurt: I put 6 quarts in the pan, and marked the stick accordingly, but after turning the engine over the oil isn't touching. I should have figured that would happen as I didn't prefill the oil filter. My setup is not stock. I have the oil filter relocated to the passenger side frame rail, with 4 hydraulic hoses carrying the oil from block to filter to cooler. I probably have more than 10 or 12 feet of 1/2" hydraulic hose, so that'll hold a good bit of oil. I'm going to try the drill trick with the dizzy out tomorrow. Thanks for all the help fellas!

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