Gary Lewis Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 He used it on your engine crossmember...... 😢 You cut your frame for header clearance I've done everything but alignments to my truck since I got it in '88. This past spring I hired a well recommended shop to change my clutch (not because it was bad, mind..) And paid for them to screw it up. 😡 It haunts me every day. Yes, cut the engine cross member and I cut the frame to accommodate the L&L headers. (But only a little bit. ) I'm not at all worried about where I cut the frame, but the cut on the cross member was very concerning. However, given the prep and welding that Welder Scott did it is no longer a concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 He used it on your engine crossmember...... 😢 You cut your frame for header clearance I've done everything but alignments to my truck since I got it in '88. This past spring I hired a well recommended shop to change my clutch (not because it was bad, mind..) And paid for them to screw it up. 😡 It haunts me every day. Well recommended doesn't mean a thing. Most of the shops I know hire druggies. One local shop owner actually used to pay his "mechanics" in dope. And it wasn't weed either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Well fellas, sorry for the late reply, I been workin. The exhaust is custom, and was on the truck when I got it. I have tri-y headers. The y pipe is old and rusty(but solid, just ugly) so I'm thinking of having new pipe made. The problem with that is not the price, but having to get the truck to the muffler shop. It's only about 6 or miles away, but that a loooooong drive with open headers. Not a good way to make friends. So I'm stuck for now till I make a decision. Or I could take it to: Got the pipe marked today where it's hitting. Hopefully will run it by the muffler shop this week and see if they can crimp it. If not, I'll have to figure out how to get the truck up there to have new pipe run. Good thing I have a lot of connections! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Got the pipe marked today where it's hitting. Hopefully will run it by the muffler shop this week and see if they can crimp it. If not, I'll have to figure out how to get the truck up there to have new pipe run. Good thing I have a lot of connections! Why not just drive it, Bradley? Are the collectors pointing right at the gas tank? No one else in your town has open pipes on their vehicle? If I was 900 miles closer I'd bed it over there, but I don't have the time or fuel to make that happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Why not just drive it, Bradley? Are the collectors pointing right at the gas tank? No one else in your town has open pipes on their vehicle? If I was 900 miles closer I'd bed it over there, but I don't have the time or fuel to make that happen. Well, I know I CAN do it that way... but the muffler shop is in town and right next to a residential area. If I have to I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Well, I know I CAN do it that way... but the muffler shop is in town and right next to a residential area. If I have to I will. you will most likely not be the first. I know I have trailered a few to get pipes done but still needed to drive off the trailer. they are used to it, I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Well, I know I CAN do it that way... but the muffler shop is in town and right next to a residential area. If I have to I will. Just tried to turn it over to check the oil pressure and it won't turn over. I have two separate problems going on at the same time. No power from the igniton switch to the solenoid, and, when I jump the solenoid terminals, the starter bendix is kicking out and not doing anything, as if the motor were locked up. I don't have a big enough socket to turn the crank at the moment, and I DO NOT feel like dropping the column to get to the switch. I'm at my wits end with this. The only thing I can do is pull the starter and see if it's working. For context, this is a fairly new pmgr unit with no previous issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Just tried to turn it over to check the oil pressure and it won't turn over. I have two separate problems going on at the same time. No power from the igniton switch to the solenoid, and, when I jump the solenoid terminals, the starter bendix is kicking out and not doing anything, as if the motor were locked up. I don't have a big enough socket to turn the crank at the moment, and I DO NOT feel like dropping the column to get to the switch. I'm at my wits end with this. The only thing I can do is pull the starter and see if it's working. For context, this is a fairly new pmgr unit with no previous issues. Yeah, a conventional bendix wouldn't throw unless the motor turned. The starter relay trigger wire (R&B) has provision for a clutch switch AND a transmission position sensor. One of these isn't connecting or is out of adjustment. You can jump the clutch switch with a spare fuse. The transmission position switch should be jumpered by a plug at the end of the harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Yeah, a conventional bendix wouldn't throw unless the motor turned. The starter relay trigger wire (R&B) has provision for a clutch switch AND a transmission position sensor. One of these isn't connecting or is out of adjustment. You can jump the clutch switch with a spare fuse. The transmission position switch should be jumpered by a plug at the end of the harness. Wait! The starter solenoid wouldn't throw if it wasn't getting triggered. YOU have a problem with the starter cable or the little braided tail that goes from the hot stud that the cable attaches to into the starter..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Just tried to turn it over to check the oil pressure and it won't turn over. I have two separate problems going on at the same time. No power from the igniton switch to the solenoid, and, when I jump the solenoid terminals, the starter bendix is kicking out and not doing anything, as if the motor were locked up. I don't have a big enough socket to turn the crank at the moment, and I DO NOT feel like dropping the column to get to the switch. I'm at my wits end with this. The only thing I can do is pull the starter and see if it's working. For context, this is a fairly new pmgr unit with no previous issues. what is the battery voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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