ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Believe it or not, whilst rummaging through the parts system at work, I found a selector valve that looks almost identical to the ones on our trucks. It is listed as being for diesel, but I fail to see why Ford would have made 2 identical valves, but one for gas and the other for diesel. IIRC, it was only listed under one vehicle a 94(ish?) F-super duty 7.3. I'll have to find the part#. It's way too expensive to be practical, but I thought it was interesting. What we really need to do is find a way to get away from these stupid electric valves and use 1 or 2 manual valves. I've already worked out the electrical side of that. I might post on that later in my build thread... There are a number of variations of the hot fuel handling system and they take different valves. (all these things were made by Pollak, before SMP crushed them) Airtex, Wells, Carter, Delco, the big 3 parts store brands..... Of the six port valves one uses a pulse to shift and stay, another has a hold in solenoid (rear tank is default) some switch the senders, others don't. There are variations across years, and that's JUST the 6-port Then you have the non-return 3-port valves..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 There are a number of variations of the hot fuel handling system and they take different valves. (all these things were made by Pollak, before SMP crushed them) Airtex, Wells, Carter, Delco, the big 3 parts store brands..... Of the six port valves one uses a pulse to shift and stay, another has a hold in solenoid (rear tank is default) some switch the senders, others don't. There are variations across years, and that's JUST the 6-port Then you have the non-return 3-port valves..... I am tempted to just buy some spools of fuel hose. Factory is a nylon fuel injection style lines, I don't hate that, but the fuel selector valve and every fuel filter I have been able to find is either threaded or barbed. So I am cutting off the ends of the factory ends, jamming a 5/16 barb in, adding a short length of hose for the fuel filter, a second short length for the external pump, another for the fuel selector valve, and then finally another barb for the main line. Where the hoses were already cut and hacked with a few splices already... Either way, pretty sure I will have the front tank in and the fuel selector valve wired in. Have to mount my power inverter, fix the wires running to it, mount the fuel selector switch (it's going to be easier to run new wires) and then I am going to finish off a few little things in the cab and bed. I am going to try to wire up the rear sending unit, but if the rear tank doesn't work, it's not a big deal as long as the front one does. I picked up some cones, blinking lights (which were 1/10th the size I thought they were, look like a toy...) Finish the locks on the bins, organize tools.... Oh, and the front tank was actually metal. When I crawled under it a few months ago there was almost a a foot of snow, so I wasn't too keen on spending a lot of time outside and I was tapping on the rubber isolator on the straps, not the actual tank. Feel stupid for that one. The rear is definitely plastic, but I decided to leave it as is. If the truck does work out okay, I will probably replace all the lines and wiring back to the tanks and replace everything with rubber hose and get rid of all the splices, probably replace the front tank. It holds gas, but has more rust in it then I am comfortable with. I think it will work until it warms up, and by then I should have more money coming in. At least I better if I am all the way up in Oregon.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I am tempted to just buy some spools of fuel hose. Factory is a nylon fuel injection style lines, I don't hate that, but the fuel selector valve and every fuel filter I have been able to find is either threaded or barbed. So I am cutting off the ends of the factory ends, jamming a 5/16 barb in, adding a short length of hose for the fuel filter, a second short length for the external pump, another for the fuel selector valve, and then finally another barb for the main line. Where the hoses were already cut and hacked with a few splices already... Either way, pretty sure I will have the front tank in and the fuel selector valve wired in. Have to mount my power inverter, fix the wires running to it, mount the fuel selector switch (it's going to be easier to run new wires) and then I am going to finish off a few little things in the cab and bed. I am going to try to wire up the rear sending unit, but if the rear tank doesn't work, it's not a big deal as long as the front one does. I picked up some cones, blinking lights (which were 1/10th the size I thought they were, look like a toy...) Finish the locks on the bins, organize tools.... Oh, and the front tank was actually metal. When I crawled under it a few months ago there was almost a a foot of snow, so I wasn't too keen on spending a lot of time outside and I was tapping on the rubber isolator on the straps, not the actual tank. Feel stupid for that one. The rear is definitely plastic, but I decided to leave it as is. If the truck does work out okay, I will probably replace all the lines and wiring back to the tanks and replace everything with rubber hose and get rid of all the splices, probably replace the front tank. It holds gas, but has more rust in it then I am comfortable with. I think it will work until it warms up, and by then I should have more money coming in. At least I better if I am all the way up in Oregon.... I was addressing Bradley, our new counter jockey.... You have your work cut out for you! If you're not using the Dorman nylon line repair kits I don't see a reason to fight the blue line forcing it onto barbs and other terminations. The HFH systems don't run anything like the pressures in Fi systems. I didn't realize this was a journey TO a destination, rather than an outing from CO. I'm not a medium duty truck guru, but I actually am a 'rocket scientist'. 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haystack Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 I was addressing Bradley, our new counter jockey.... You have your work cut out for you! If you're not using the Dorman nylon line repair kits I don't see a reason to fight the blue line forcing it onto barbs and other terminations. The HFH systems don't run anything like the pressures in Fi systems. I didn't realize this was a journey TO a destination, rather than an outing from CO. I'm not a medium duty truck guru, but I actually am a 'rocket scientist'. 😂 You and my dad would get along fine. He works at North up Grumman, started out at atk, alient tech systems. He worked in mix and cast for rocket propellent for a long time. As a kid I didn't know what he did, but he wore a "nasa" coveralls to and from work and had a bunch of pictures of him standing next to rocket motors. For the longest time, I thought he was a rocket scientist. I am a fan of the nylon gas lines, I just wish the adapters and fittings didn't cost so much and weren't hard to get in the fly. My old 86 fuel injected tbird has all factory everything. I did have to swap a fuel pump once, and I did smash a line with a chunk of ice, but I put over 100k miles on that car and never had to replace anything else fuel related. Stainless steel lines and nylon don't rust out. I'd much rather keep that setup then a bunch of harbor freight hose clamps and $10 plastic fuel filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 You and my dad would get along fine. He works at North up Grumman, started out at atk, alient tech systems. He worked in mix and cast for rocket propellent for a long time. As a kid I didn't know what he did, but he wore a "nasa" coveralls to and from work and had a bunch of pictures of him standing next to rocket motors. For the longest time, I thought he was a rocket scientist. I am a fan of the nylon gas lines, I just wish the adapters and fittings didn't cost so much and weren't hard to get in the fly. My old 86 fuel injected tbird has all factory everything. I did have to swap a fuel pump once, and I did smash a line with a chunk of ice, but I put over 100k miles on that car and never had to replace anything else fuel related. Stainless steel lines and nylon don't rust out. I'd much rather keep that setup then a bunch of harbor freight hose clamps and $10 plastic fuel filters. I've got you! Agree 100% with your fuel system breakdown. Props to your dad from M/T. I know what, but perhaps not the batch sizes he deals with. Someone like him would know in a second if I said PEPCON. 🤯 I have a kid who was an umbilical engineer for STS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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