ArdWrknTrk Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "The receiver hitch wasn't even close to fitting the frame, it was resting on the rear spring hanger, which sticks down a good bit." Is the width of the receiver right for your frame? If so then this 38 gallon tank might fit. Lets do some serious comparing on our tanks. Mine is easy to measure, but the dimensions I gave are including the lips, so the body is smaller. If you can measure yours with and without the lips I can do the same, but not until tomorrow as I'm gone all day today. Then you should be able to tell if this 38 gallon tank will fit. If you look above, the spring centerline (L) on commercial chassis trucks is 40.24/5" The springs are 2 1/2" wide instead of 3" wide pickup springs. Edit: a 37.5" wide hitch will not fit a 34" frame.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 If you look above, the spring centerline (L) on commercial chassis trucks is 40.24/5" The springs are 2 1/2" wide instead of 3" wide pickup springs. Edit: a 37.5" wide hitch will not fit a 34" frame.... Now I think I understand. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 Now I think I understand. Thanks! If the truck frame is 34" outside (per the drawing) then there's no way your 34 3/4" wide tank is going to fit inside the channels. This is why I say the C&C trucks must have a unique part number for the aft of axle tank. (I think we've found another faux pas in the factory documentation 💡) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 If the truck frame is 34" outside (per the drawing) then there's no way your 34 3/4" wide tank is going to fit inside the channels. This is why I say the C&C trucks must have a unique part number for the aft of axle tank. (I think we've found another faux pas in the factory documentation 💡) I think you are right. Wonder how we can solve this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 I think you are right. Wonder how we can solve this problem? Where do we begin to find the proper tank numbers for narrow chassis trucks? Honestly i thought they were all polypropylene tanks. Maybe Ralph knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 Where do we begin to find the proper tank numbers for narrow chassis trucks? Honestly i thought they were all polypropylene tanks. Maybe Ralph knows? I'm late to the party, but if you guys think the clutch on these trucks is bad, try a 1995-2011 Ford Ranger. The master cylinder is mounted through the firewall and into the clutch pedal bracket at an angle, with the pushrod end pointing up. This means that air collects at the pushrod end, and it won't flow back down unless you remove the master cylinder and invert it. Not only that, but the hydraulic line has a 180 degree curve in it, that is also known to trap air. I have to remove the entire assembly from the truck, hang the reservoir up high, invert the master, and then stretch the curve out of the hydraulic line. I then have to tap on the hydraulic line from the slave fitting up to the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop flowing and there's no play in the pushrod, I can put it back in the truck, but I leave the master cylinder inverted. I then fill the reservoir and crack the bleeder on the slave and lightly push on the pushrod to push out any air that is in the slave or still in the master cylinder. This is the only way I've found that will get my clutch to feel "right" in my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 I'm late to the party, but if you guys think the clutch on these trucks is bad, try a 1995-2011 Ford Ranger. The master cylinder is mounted through the firewall and into the clutch pedal bracket at an angle, with the pushrod end pointing up. This means that air collects at the pushrod end, and it won't flow back down unless you remove the master cylinder and invert it. Not only that, but the hydraulic line has a 180 degree curve in it, that is also known to trap air. I have to remove the entire assembly from the truck, hang the reservoir up high, invert the master, and then stretch the curve out of the hydraulic line. I then have to tap on the hydraulic line from the slave fitting up to the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop flowing and there's no play in the pushrod, I can put it back in the truck, but I leave the master cylinder inverted. I then fill the reservoir and crack the bleeder on the slave and lightly push on the pushrod to push out any air that is in the slave or still in the master cylinder. This is the only way I've found that will get my clutch to feel "right" in my truck. Ford used to sell these things as a complete assembly, pre-bled because the service bay doesn't have time to screw around with bleeding. Getting that tangled mess installed is no fun either. We joked that they must have assembled it at the bottom of it pool of brake fluid. If there was only a bleed nipple you could fill it backward like Bill suggested. What did they save, $.05? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 Ford used to sell these things as a complete assembly, pre-bled because the service bay doesn't have time to screw around with bleeding. Getting that tangled mess installed is no fun either. We joked that they must have assembled it at the bottom of it pool of brake fluid. If there was only a bleed nipple you could fill it backward like Bill suggested. What did they save, $.05? Another "Better Idea". I always assumed those were "for me", but now I'm starting to see they were "for them". On the tank question, I'm hoping that we'll get measurements on the existing tank that we can use to determine what it really is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 Another "Better Idea". I always assumed those were "for me", but now I'm starting to see they were "for them". On the tank question, I'm hoping that we'll get measurements on the existing tank that we can use to determine what it really is. Looking above, Ford call the 19 gallon aft of axle tank 'auxillary' and I would think to have a look at pgs B68 & B69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 Looking above, Ford call the 19 gallon aft of axle tank 'auxillary' and I would think to have a look at pgs B68 & B69 Here they are Jim, but I don't think they answer the question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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