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Positive camber after adding new front coils


Paulco

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I just updated my hub lockers, shocks and front coils. The new coils were about an inch longer than the originals and I assumed it was just the age of the old ones that made them smaller. I do have a positive camber but I am not sure what is acceptable.

 

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I don't have any pictures of mine but I had nasty positive camber as well. I tried replacing springs thinking the same thing about the old ones being worn. Camber was crazy worse. I had an 80 with kingpins. That meant no camber adjustment built in. Everyone on the internet will tell you that you just have to find a shop that will bend the I beams... good luck finding someone that still does this service. I ended up just putting the old springs back in and living with it.
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I don't know which/what springs you installed, but consider that they will settle down. (all springs take a set)

The new ones may also be stiffer or have a higher spring rate.

Kingpin (2wd) beams need bent. You can't do that with a live axle.

Depending on how much suspension lift you ended up with you may need drop pivots to correct your steering geometry.

These ones from Tuff Country are intended for 2" 'leveling kits' and have eccentric pivots to properly correct camber

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I just updated my hub lockers, shocks and front coils. The new coils were about an inch longer than the originals and I assumed it was just the age of the old ones that made them smaller. I do have a positive camber but I am not sure what is acceptable.

Adjustable camber bushings should fix it, assuming your positive camber is within their adjustment range. For 1-2" lift, they should work.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Adjustable-Alignment-Bushings-Pair-1980-96-4wd/productinfo/33520/

I have the Moog adjustable camber bushings in my 1994 F150 2wd, and they're really slick.

 

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I just updated my hub lockers, shocks and front coils. The new coils were about an inch longer than the originals and I assumed it was just the age of the old ones that made them smaller. I do have a positive camber but I am not sure what is acceptable.

Adjustable camber bushings should fix it, assuming your positive camber is within their adjustment range. For 1-2" lift, they should work.

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Adjustable-Alignment-Bushings-Pair-1980-96-4wd/productinfo/33520/

I have the Moog adjustable camber bushings in my 1994 F150 2wd, and they're really slick.

By the way...if you're playing around with adjustable camber bushings, buy a magnetic digital angle finder.

I have the one below and find it very useful in the garage:

https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic-Woodworking-Machinery/dp/B08SC2481M/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DU9F0N58YKX&keywords=Digital%2BAngle%2BGauge%2BLevel%2BBox%2BProtractor%7C%2BDigital%2BInclinometer%2BAngle%2BFinder%2BMagnetic%2BBase%2Bfor%2BWoodworking%2B%7C%2BBuilding%2BDrilling%2BMachinery%2BPicture%2BHanging%2B%7C%2BMicro%2BJig%2B%7CTable%2BSaw%2B(PT180)&qid=1696678297&sprefix=digital%2Bangle%2Bgauge%2Blevel%2Bbox%2Bprotractor%2Bdigital%2Binclinometer%2Bangle%2Bfinder%2Bmagnetic%2Bbase%2Bfor%2Bwoodworking%2Bbuilding%2Bdrilling%2Bmachinery%2Bpicture%2Bhanging%2Bmicro%2Bjig%2Btable%2Bsaw%2Bpt180%2B%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-15&th=1

I actually bought it when I built my 1952 pickup for checking driveline angle, and a bunch of other stuff.

Anyway...sit the front end on axle stands, but at normal level/driving height (wheels removed).

Stick the little magnetic angle finder on your brake rotor, and then you can see exactly what your camber is as you adjust the bushing(s).

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By the way...if you're playing around with adjustable camber bushings, buy a magnetic digital angle finder.

I have the one below and find it very useful in the garage:

https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic-Woodworking-Machinery/dp/B08SC2481M/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DU9F0N58YKX&keywords=Digital%2BAngle%2BGauge%2BLevel%2BBox%2BProtractor%7C%2BDigital%2BInclinometer%2BAngle%2BFinder%2BMagnetic%2BBase%2Bfor%2BWoodworking%2B%7C%2BBuilding%2BDrilling%2BMachinery%2BPicture%2BHanging%2B%7C%2BMicro%2BJig%2B%7CTable%2BSaw%2B(PT180)&qid=1696678297&sprefix=digital%2Bangle%2Bgauge%2Blevel%2Bbox%2Bprotractor%2Bdigital%2Binclinometer%2Bangle%2Bfinder%2Bmagnetic%2Bbase%2Bfor%2Bwoodworking%2Bbuilding%2Bdrilling%2Bmachinery%2Bpicture%2Bhanging%2Bmicro%2Bjig%2Btable%2Bsaw%2Bpt180%2B%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-15&th=1

I actually bought it when I built my 1952 pickup for checking driveline angle, and a bunch of other stuff.

Anyway...sit the front end on axle stands, but at normal level/driving height (wheels removed).

Stick the little magnetic angle finder on your brake rotor, and then you can see exactly what your camber is as you adjust the bushing(s).

Thanks everyone, this is my daily driver until my expensive Jeep gets fixed. So I think I will run it for a week and see if it settles in.

 

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By the way...if you're playing around with adjustable camber bushings, buy a magnetic digital angle finder.

I have the one below and find it very useful in the garage:

https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic-Woodworking-Machinery/dp/B08SC2481M/ref=sr_1_15?crid=8DU9F0N58YKX&keywords=Digital%2BAngle%2BGauge%2BLevel%2BBox%2BProtractor%7C%2BDigital%2BInclinometer%2BAngle%2BFinder%2BMagnetic%2BBase%2Bfor%2BWoodworking%2B%7C%2BBuilding%2BDrilling%2BMachinery%2BPicture%2BHanging%2B%7C%2BMicro%2BJig%2B%7CTable%2BSaw%2B(PT180)&qid=1696678297&sprefix=digital%2Bangle%2Bgauge%2Blevel%2Bbox%2Bprotractor%2Bdigital%2Binclinometer%2Bangle%2Bfinder%2Bmagnetic%2Bbase%2Bfor%2Bwoodworking%2Bbuilding%2Bdrilling%2Bmachinery%2Bpicture%2Bhanging%2Bmicro%2Bjig%2Btable%2Bsaw%2Bpt180%2B%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-15&th=1

I actually bought it when I built my 1952 pickup for checking driveline angle, and a bunch of other stuff.

Anyway...sit the front end on axle stands, but at normal level/driving height (wheels removed).

Stick the little magnetic angle finder on your brake rotor, and then you can see exactly what your camber is as you adjust the bushing(s).

I agree 100% with Cory (I use the Wixey magnetic angle finder) but you have to be parked on an absolute level surface for any measurement to be meaningful.

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I agree 100% with Cory (I use the Wixey magnetic angle finder) but you have to be parked on an absolute level surface for any measurement to be meaningful.

I got my camber pretty close using the little Amazon angle finder. I believe the 2wd spec is around 0.25 degrees positive camber, so to see how close the factory was I set the adjustable bushings at zero/zero, and my driver's side camber was exactly 90 degrees, and the passenger side was 89.xx degrees...I forget the exact number. Once it was on the alignment rack, the numbers showed slightly different, but still within a half a degree or so, which was pretty impressive I must say.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I agree 100% with Cory (I use the Wixey magnetic angle finder) but you have to be parked on an absolute level surface for any measurement to be meaningful.

I got my camber pretty close using the little Amazon angle finder. I believe the 2wd spec is around 0.25 degrees positive camber, so to see how close the factory was I set the adjustable bushings at zero/zero, and my driver's side camber was exactly 90 degrees, and the passenger side was 89.xx degrees...I forget the exact number. Once it was on the alignment rack, the numbers showed slightly different, but still within a half a degree or so, which was pretty impressive I must say.

Update to the thread, I removed the coils I bought from NAPA and ordered new front coils from LMC trucks. These were the correct size and cheaper (including shipping). My alignment is now correct.

My lesson is to be patient and order from a place that specializes in older (more experienced) trucks.

Thanks

Paul

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