ArdWrknTrk Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 I bought a valve from carolinaclassictrucks, I am guessing this does not qualify as OEM and the tool should work? In any case they forgot to ship me the tool so I'm wondering if there is any way to do the bleed without it. The OEM valves (150 or 250/350, they're re different) they have a built-in plunger that holds the shuttle centered so you can bleed the brake system without blocking flow and setting the brake warning light. I don't know the thread pitch of the Carolina Classics. It looks tapered to me. 🤔 The 'tool' has to keep the hourglass shape at the center of the valve from shifting, without scratching or damaging the brass piston or bore. it's a nylon screw with a pin/nub on the end. Pretty outrageous they want $18 for it.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 The OEM valves (150 or 250/350, they're re different) they have a built-in plunger that holds the shuttle centered so you can bleed the brake system without blocking flow and setting the brake warning light. I don't know the thread pitch of the Carolina Classics. It looks tapered to me. 🤔 The 'tool' has to keep the hourglass shape at the center of the valve from shifting, without scratching or damaging the brass piston or bore. it's a nylon screw with a pin/nub on the end. Pretty outrageous they want $18 for it. This eBay seller shows a cutaway of the bleeding tool doing it's job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaveasky Posted October 7, 2023 Author Share Posted October 7, 2023 Interesting day yesterday, I decided to go ahead with the swap of the valve first since I do not have a jack at the moment to do the wheel cylinders. Mid-way through I realized I was not going to be able to get all the lines off the old valve (stripped nuts) and that I should probably redo all the rusted out brake lines anyway. So I reconnected everything I had managed to take out of the current valve, and got in the truck to move it back to storage.... and now my brakes work. I did a vacuum hand-pump bleed and theyre super sponge but the brakes work... Now on my next day off I'm gonna try borrow a good jack from someone and get those wheel cylinders done and start thinking about brake lines which is something new to me as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 7, 2023 Share Posted October 7, 2023 Interesting day yesterday, I decided to go ahead with the swap of the valve first since I do not have a jack at the moment to do the wheel cylinders. Mid-way through I realized I was not going to be able to get all the lines off the old valve (stripped nuts) and that I should probably redo all the rusted out brake lines anyway. So I reconnected everything I had managed to take out of the current valve, and got in the truck to move it back to storage.... and now my brakes work. I did a vacuum hand-pump bleed and theyre super sponge but the brakes work... Now on my next day off I'm gonna try borrow a good jack from someone and get those wheel cylinders done and start thinking about brake lines which is something new to me as well. Are you making your own lines or buying pre-made? You can usually get standard 3/16 lines in 8" - 5' lengths, and fitting the long line down inside the frame rail beside the gas tank can be challenging. I make all my own lines from nickel/copper with a double flare tool. In any case the nicopp tube is a LOT easier to work with. If you're replacing the drivers side rear axle wheel cylinder line be aware that the fitting at the brass junction block is an odd oversized nut. So, if you're using off the shelf 3/16 tube you need the (unobtainable) adapter ifitaintbroke mentioned above. If you're making your own lines you can reuse the nut, if it isn't completely destroyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaveasky Posted October 7, 2023 Author Share Posted October 7, 2023 Are you making your own lines or buying pre-made? You can usually get standard 3/16 lines in 8" - 5' lengths, and fitting the long line down inside the frame rail beside the gas tank can be challenging. I make all my own lines from nickel/copper with a double flare tool. In any case the nicopp tube is a LOT easier to work with. If you're replacing the drivers side rear axle wheel cylinder line be aware that the fitting at the brass junction block is an odd oversized nut. So, if you're using off the shelf 3/16 tube you need the (unobtainable) adapter ifitaintbroke mentioned above. If you're making your own lines you can reuse the nut, if it isn't completely destroyed. Here is a Pic of my junction block which is what I assume you were talking about. I think I could save this nut. Man it's ugly under there... I hope I can save this truck one day. I have to drop the tanks to put in new sending units so I might take the chance to learn how to do brake lines too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 7, 2023 Share Posted October 7, 2023 Here is a Pic of my junction block which is what I assume you were talking about. I think I could save this nut. Man it's ugly under there... I hope I can save this truck one day. I have to drop the tanks to put in new sending units so I might take the chance to learn how to do brake lines too... Yow! That line is pretty ugly where it passes over the U-bolt. I'd imagine the tank vents look about the same.... If you intend to make up your own lines you can make good anti-vibration coils for the master cylinder by wrapping tube around a thin bottle. Do your best not to forget which way the nut fits -before- making your double flare in the end of the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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