Ski Boat with a 302

[ratdude747]

Don't remember what carb you have, although I do remember seeing a pic of it that I'm not finding now. Anyway, can't speak to the choke right now, but I'd think there's an electric choke available for all carbs.

On the trim/tilt, I think you have a wiring problem if you use the tilt switch to trim. However, IIRC, some of the Merc's used the same switch to both trim and tilt and trimmed to one point and then tilted. Which do you have - one or two switches?

Scotchlocks have no business being in a boat, nor anywhere else for that matter. So if you have them you also have bad wiring. You'll need those schematics.

And what ignition system does it have? DS-II blue grommet?

It's a 4 barrel holley. Has a mechanical choke lever. Next time the cover's off I'll get better pics. For now there's this:

One can see the choke lever and coathanger in view. I guess as pig rich and fair weather this thing runs, choke isn't needed?

The sending unit and limit switch for the trim are completely gone. Rubber wiring fell to chunks. Explains everything. It's a twin switch setup.

Ignition is points. No DS. Thinking a Pertronics is the way to go... no need to swap the dizzy or anything. Not ordered on the off chance somebody has one to swap at the show (upgraded to an MSD or Hyperspark, etc.). But, I'd still need to find the suspected faulty ballast (although the manual says one can bypass if voltage is low... which, per PO's testing, it is... ). Another option would be an HEI...

Thanks on the muffs... crossed it off the buying list.

[Gary Lewis]

It's a 4 barrel holley. Has a mechanical choke lever. Next time the cover's off I'll get better pics. For now there's this:

One can see the choke lever and coathanger in view. I guess as pig rich and fair weather this thing runs, choke isn't needed?

The sending unit and limit switch for the trim are completely gone. Rubber wiring fell to chunks. Explains everything. It's a twin switch setup.

Ignition is points. No DS. Thinking a Pertronics is the way to go... no need to swap the dizzy or anything. Not ordered on the off chance somebody has one to swap at the show (upgraded to an MSD or Hyperspark, etc.). But, I'd still need to find the suspected faulty ballast (although the manual says one can bypass if voltage is low... which, per PO's testing, it is... ). Another option would be an HEI...

Thanks on the muffs... crossed it off the buying list.

I'll see if I have a Holley auto choke, but you may need to talk to Bill.

Points? Do you want to go with a DS-II system? I might have the parts, but I'll have to look. However, I know I don't have the ballast resistor, although most parts stores sell the Chrysler one that should work fine.

[Gary Lewis]

I'll see if I have a Holley auto choke, but you may need to talk to Bill.

Points? Do you want to go with a DS-II system? I might have the parts, but I'll have to look. However, I know I don't have the ballast resistor, although most parts stores sell the Chrysler one that should work fine.

Missed the bit about HEI. Read Rene's post about the HEI on his Jeep. Made it 4 years and 9000 miles. The problem is we are getting a rash of bad Chinese HEI modules and there are lots of stories like Rene's.

[ratdude747]

I'll see if I have a Holley auto choke, but you may need to talk to Bill.

Points? Do you want to go with a DS-II system? I might have the parts, but I'll have to look. However, I know I don't have the ballast resistor, although most parts stores sell the Chrysler one that should work fine.

Yes, points. This is 1976 marine!

If I didn't think it'd be a royal pain in the butt to find the parts (as they're so often sought after), DSII wouldn't be bad. But overkill?

I'll do more research on the Pertronix system... if I can bypass the existing ballast wire (or whatever is there), then that'd be an easy enough fix. Just tie into ignition switched power.

Edit- looks like Pertronix makes coils that will run without ballast... IDK. I was told "voltage too low, but we never found a ballast or a ballast wire". On the + side of the coil all that's there are two tan wires crimped together. On the other side is the points connection and another harness connection (presumably the tachometer signal).

Edit 2: Petronix combinations based on a forum post (not here) I found:

Ignitor I: https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-1281-ignitor-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-40011-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-1-5-ohm-black

Ignitor II (instructions do include removing the ballast resistor/wire): https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-91281-ignitor-ii-adaptive-dwell-control-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-45011-flame-thrower-ii-coil-45-000-volt-0-6-ohm-black

Ignitor III (Not in forum post, but a coil was in the instructions with a note to remove the ballast wire/resistor): https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-71281-ignitor-iii-adaptive-dwell-control-multiple-spark-with-digital-rev-limiter-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-44011-flame-thrower-iii-coil-45-000-volt-0-32-ohm-black

Which is best... I dunno. I've read that the Ignitor II is a true upgrade; Ignitor III has multispark capability and an integrated rev limiter. And the ignitor III isn't that much more than the II...

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, points. This is 1976 marine!

If I didn't think it'd be a royal pain in the butt to find the parts (as they're so often sought after), DSII wouldn't be bad. But overkill?

I'll do more research on the Pertronix system... if I can bypass the existing ballast wire (or whatever is there), then that'd be an easy enough fix. Just tie into ignition switched power.

Edit- looks like Pertronix makes coils that will run without ballast... IDK. I was told "voltage too low, but we never found a ballast or a ballast wire". On the + side of the coil all that's there are two tan wires crimped together. On the other side is the points connection and another harness connection (presumably the tachometer signal).

Edit 2: Petronix combinations based on a forum post (not here) I found:

Ignitor I: https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-1281-ignitor-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-40011-flame-thrower-coil-40-000-volt-1-5-ohm-black

Ignitor II (instructions do include removing the ballast resistor/wire): https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-91281-ignitor-ii-adaptive-dwell-control-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-45011-flame-thrower-ii-coil-45-000-volt-0-6-ohm-black

Ignitor III (Not in forum post, but a coil was in the instructions with a note to remove the ballast wire/resistor): https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-71281-ignitor-iii-adaptive-dwell-control-multiple-spark-with-digital-rev-limiter-ford-8-cyl and https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-44011-flame-thrower-iii-coil-45-000-volt-0-32-ohm-black

Which is best... I dunno. I've read that the Ignitor II is a true upgrade; Ignitor III has multispark capability and an integrated rev limiter. And the ignitor III isn't that much more than the II...

Pertronix has been around for a long time and from what I've read have very good systems. In your application I think I'd go with the Ignitor II system because I think it'll do everything you need and save a little bit over the III. Besides, Bill will come on and say he doesn't trust a system that has to spark multiple times to get its job done.

And pair that with a 40111 epoxy coil since they say "epoxy filled coils provide superior winding support for high vibration environments in off-road vehicles and boats". Plus, as you pointed out, their instructions say "REMOVE OR BYPASS EXTERNAL BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTANCE WIRE WHEN INSTALLING THE RECOMENDED FLAME-THROWER COIL."

[ratdude747]

Pertronix has been around for a long time and from what I've read have very good systems. In your application I think I'd go with the Ignitor II system because I think it'll do everything you need and save a little bit over the III. Besides, Bill will come on and say he doesn't trust a system that has to spark multiple times to get its job done.

And pair that with a 40111 epoxy coil since they say "epoxy filled coils provide superior winding support for high vibration environments in off-road vehicles and boats". Plus, as you pointed out, their instructions say "REMOVE OR BYPASS EXTERNAL BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTANCE WIRE WHEN INSTALLING THE RECOMENDED FLAME-THROWER COIL."

Sounds like a plan for next week...

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like a plan for next week...

Your carb is on the left and one I have for you is on the right. Perhaps Jim or Bill can tell us the differences?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Your carb is on the left and one I have for you is on the right. Perhaps Jim or Bill can tell us the differences?

I can't detail all the differences, but marine carbs are Coast Guard compliant. They have sealed shafts and vents that won't overflow outside, but down the bore.

There may be other details I don't recall. If safety inspection and insurance are on your mind these details are important.

[Gary Lewis]

I can't detail all the differences, but marine carbs are Coast Guard compliant. They have sealed shafts and vents that won't overflow outside, but down the bore.

There may be other details I don't recall. If safety inspection and insurance are on your mind these details are important.

Thanks, Jim. That's basically what I was looking for.

So his is a marine carb. But will the choke from mine fit his?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. That's basically what I was looking for.

So his is a marine carb. But will the choke from mine fit his?

It would be good if he could get a photo of the list# and date code from the front of the choke horn.

I've worked on more than a few marine engines (that's where I first spotted my valve covers) but I'm no marine mechanic.

Yes, I do think your electric choke will swap right over, but keep in mind Ford specific (Motorcraft) carbs are set up for 7V from the stator wire.

If Larry's (spark arrestor equipped) marine alternator doesn't have an external stator stud, that may complicate installation.

Also, there is a marine specific Holley 12V electric choke (45-258 2300)

I've tagged Bill. 😉