ArdWrknTrk Posted September 24, 2023 Share Posted September 24, 2023 I was commenting on the red splice in the rear wiring, but maybe I can't see it well on my phone? Lubricant technology and additive packages have certainly come a LONG way in 50 years (but still the smell of castor based 2-stroke oil brings me back!) Marine engines tend to run at pretty steady rpm and loads unless you're trying to pop skiers up. I think modern multi viscosity oils will be fine. Castrol makes a few grades of their GTX which they claim have meaningful amounts of ZDDP, including 10W-40 and a 15W-40 diesel grade meeting CK-4. A guy over on BITOG showing Blackstone #'s zinc over 1,100 and phosphorus over 1,000. (make what you want of that) That's the fried connector that used to go to the stern light that I was referring to. I didn't think high ZDDP was needed once the lifters were broken in? I understand, that's why I said that crimp looked extra crispy... This thread somewhat reminds me of trying to resurrect Donnie's Velocity. The wiring, lights and controls in that little skater were pooched. High ZDDP is still a requirement for solid lifter cams, as it creates a self healing anti galling layer on all iron and steel inside the engine. While hydraulic lifters with reasonable pressure valve springs don't theoretically need it, you don't have a Cat to poison and the engine was designed with ZDDP in mind (because it was in all oils back then) I buy it because A) Rotella has cut way back now that new diesels have cats and the service index changed B) it's almost the cheapest oil on the shelf at the big chains and farm stores. I'm not trying to push it on anyone. Like I said, make what you will of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 24, 2023 Author Share Posted September 24, 2023 I understand, that's why I said that crimp looked extra crispy... This thread somewhat reminds me of trying to resurrect Donnie's Velocity. The wiring, lights and controls in that little skater were pooched. High ZDDP is still a requirement for solid lifter cams, as it creates a self healing anti galling layer on all iron and steel inside the engine. While hydraulic lifters with reasonable pressure valve springs don't theoretically need it, you don't have a Cat to poison and the engine was designed with ZDDP in mind (because it was in all oils back then) I buy it because A) Rotella has cut way back now that new diesels have cats and the service index changed B) it's almost the cheapest oil on the shelf at the big chains and farm stores. I'm not trying to push it on anyone. Like I said, make what you will of that. Ah. From the research I'm doing it has hydraulic lifters... and a 351 cam, assuming all is stock. Still, if the oil is available and somewhat reasonably priced, sure. Just trying to keep it from sludging too awful, hence why I was looking to synthetics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 24, 2023 Share Posted September 24, 2023 Ah. From the research I'm doing it has hydraulic lifters... and a 351 cam, assuming all is stock. Still, if the oil is available and somewhat reasonably priced, sure. Just trying to keep it from sludging too awful, hence why I was looking to synthetics. Yes, it's a 302. It has hydraulic lifters. I'm saying that since you can run an older API spec the extra antiwear additives won't hurt expensive emissions components. I don't know what firing order the cam has but the 302's went to 13726548 like the 351 sometime in the early 80's. Marine engines are a thing onto themselves.... If you want a synthetic with a high detergent package then maybe something like Rotella T6 is a better choice for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 24, 2023 Author Share Posted September 24, 2023 Yes, it's a 302. It has hydraulic lifters. I'm saying that since you can run an older API spec the extra antiwear additives won't hurt expensive emissions components. I don't know what firing order the cam has but the 302's went to 13726548 like the 351 sometime in the early 80's. Marine engines are a thing onto themselves.... If you want a synthetic with a high detergent package then maybe something like Rotella T6 is a better choice for you? T6 is an option... 5w-40 specifically. But, im now reading 5w-40 t6 is too light in shear protection. And mercury now recommends 25w-40 (their quicksilver brand, of course, $53 per gallon http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/money-flying-23_orig.png). Edit- apparently when asked on this particular motor, mercury still says to use sae-30. And many brands do make full synthetic versions. I guess that's what it is and just to not lean on until fully up to temp... and stop being a ratdude who fixes what ain't broke. Oil capacity is 6 qts. --- Finally got the dumb decals off. Too lazy to buff... I'd have to buff the whole thing (or feather it really well) and I'm not feeling it. This isn't a show boat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted September 25, 2023 Share Posted September 25, 2023 .... But, we can't just put a wire in there... as the other coil + wire is tied directly to the drive of the starter relay (uses both relay control terminals). Since I want to keep start and run fully isolated, the solution is to solder a harness with isolating shottkey diodes to feed the coil: You probably know this, and it may not matter. But there's a 0.7V voltage drop across a diode. Usually that's not significant, but in an ignition system it might be (emphasis on MIGHT). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 25, 2023 Author Share Posted September 25, 2023 .... But, we can't just put a wire in there... as the other coil + wire is tied directly to the drive of the starter relay (uses both relay control terminals). Since I want to keep start and run fully isolated, the solution is to solder a harness with isolating shottkey diodes to feed the coil: You probably know this, and it may not matter. But there's a 0.7V voltage drop across a diode. Usually that's not significant, but in an ignition system it might be (emphasis on MIGHT). I am very aware of this... and if it fails, I'll have to run a relay (with the diode branch controlling such)... less than ideal. But it is plan B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 25, 2023 Share Posted September 25, 2023 I am very aware of this... and if it fails, I'll have to run a relay (with the diode branch controlling such)... less than ideal. But it is plan B. Looking over everything, it sure looks familiar, my second department manager had a boat, same Mercruiser stern drive setup, 188 HP engine. It was a 302 with a hotter cam and 351 heads. Suggestion from someone who has worked on a number of marine engines. See if you can get the exhaust elbows off and inspect them and the manifolds for leaks. At least with a Ford engine you don't have head bolts into the water jacket like those "French" engines do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 25, 2023 Author Share Posted September 25, 2023 Looking over everything, it sure looks familiar, my second department manager had a boat, same Mercruiser stern drive setup, 188 HP engine. It was a 302 with a hotter cam and 351 heads. Suggestion from someone who has worked on a number of marine engines. See if you can get the exhaust elbows off and inspect them and the manifolds for leaks. At least with a Ford engine you don't have head bolts into the water jacket like those "French" engines do. Noted ---- Carb came in. In the process of fitting it up. Looks like I'll be redoing the fuel line from the pump. Didn't Like the setup. Thankfully the pump connection looks like a pipe thread with flare adapter... a 3/8 barb and some 3/8 fuel hose will fix that. Oh wait, that's also supposed be coast guard approved too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 25, 2023 Share Posted September 25, 2023 Noted ---- Carb came in. In the process of fitting it up. Looks like I'll be redoing the fuel line from the pump. Didn't Like the setup. Thankfully the pump connection looks like a pipe thread with flare adapter... a 3/8 barb and some 3/8 fuel hose will fix that. Oh wait, that's also supposed be coast guard approved too? That's a great price on a marine specific carb, and it looks good on there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 25, 2023 Author Share Posted September 25, 2023 That's a great price on a marine specific carb, and it looks good on there! What do you know... some times even blind squirrels find a nut once in a while. Installed other than the fuel line... Choke connections are a bit loose after some fiddling. May end up replacing the heater if it becomes a problem. Also yanked the old fuel line. Yep, 1/4 npt at the pump, barb on carb is for 3/8 hose. Fitting was loose too... ended up snapping off the steel part of the line. And the fuel that spilled out didn't smell terribly bad... no pine smell or the like. Good aroma of 93 octane... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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