Back with another Flareside (#4, I think)

[Rembrant]

I think '94 is the same system as my '95 and '97 had/have. There isn't a typical switching valve between the tanks. Whichever tank is selected, only that pump is on so fuel comes from the correct tank. The return line however is a bit of a challenge. I've never had one apart to try to understand it, but each tank has an FDM (Fuel Delivery Module) which includes the fuel pump and a check valve on the return line. The valve isclosed if the pump is shut off and opens when the pump is on, so the return fuel goes back to the tank that's being used.

Interesting. I must get under there and have a look around at the plumbing and see what I have. With the 1992-1997 trucks, there seem to be a lot of changes in 1994, so 1992-1993 are similar, and then 1994-1996/7 are similar...or at least that is the way it seems so far.

I thought my rear tank was full...I could have sworn that the seller said it was full...but the gauge was reading empty. I put some gas in it the other day, and the gauge came up to quarter of a tank. I tried to fill it last night, and it appears to be full...so it looks like the sending unit in the rear tank is bad. Possible to be a wiring issue I suppose, but from reading online it seems that the sending unit in the tank is the most common failure point if the gauge isn't reading correctly (pin hole in the float bulb seems to a common culprit). Easy enough to replace I guess...after I burn all of the fuel in the tank, and drop the spare. I would say that by the time I go through all this trouble I might as well throw a new pump in there while it's all apart.

 

[Rembrant]

I think '94 is the same system as my '95 and '97 had/have. There isn't a typical switching valve between the tanks. Whichever tank is selected, only that pump is on so fuel comes from the correct tank. The return line however is a bit of a challenge. I've never had one apart to try to understand it, but each tank has an FDM (Fuel Delivery Module) which includes the fuel pump and a check valve on the return line. The valve isclosed if the pump is shut off and opens when the pump is on, so the return fuel goes back to the tank that's being used.

Interesting. I must get under there and have a look around at the plumbing and see what I have. With the 1992-1997 trucks, there seem to be a lot of changes in 1994, so 1992-1993 are similar, and then 1994-1996/7 are similar...or at least that is the way it seems so far.

I thought my rear tank was full...I could have sworn that the seller said it was full...but the gauge was reading empty. I put some gas in it the other day, and the gauge came up to quarter of a tank. I tried to fill it last night, and it appears to be full...so it looks like the sending unit in the rear tank is bad. Possible to be a wiring issue I suppose, but from reading online it seems that the sending unit in the tank is the most common failure point if the gauge isn't reading correctly (pin hole in the float bulb seems to a common culprit). Easy enough to replace I guess...after I burn all of the fuel in the tank, and drop the spare. I would say that by the time I go through all this trouble I might as well throw a new pump in there while it's all apart.

I have been getting reacquainted with Ford OBD1 lately!

The truck had one nagging KOEO code, #121 for "Voltage too high or too low for TPS closed position". It would not clear. There were a couple O2 sensor fault codes in memory, but they cleared on their own after driving it and getting rid of the old gas that was in the truck.

I installed a new TPS yesterday morning, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve, and installed all new gaskets of course. Re-tested, and my TPS fault code is gone and I got the #111 indicating that all was clear and working properly.

I was then able to do the KOER tests, and I got a #111 for that as well, so everything is working as it should. Since this truck has MAF, it is also SEFI, so it can self-test for cylinder balance which is kinda neat. I ran that test as well, and it ramps up the RPM and then sequentially drops out once cylinder at a time to see how much change there is, if any at all. This test ended with a code #90, which means a clear tests and that all is well.

I then made a trip out to the junkyard and scored a couple small parts I needed, and they did nt even charge me for them;). One was an air box latch, which I pulled from a Crown Vic and it was identical.

Simple mind, simple pleasures;).

 

[Gary Lewis]

I have been getting reacquainted with Ford OBD1 lately!

The truck had one nagging KOEO code, #121 for "Voltage too high or too low for TPS closed position". It would not clear. There were a couple O2 sensor fault codes in memory, but they cleared on their own after driving it and getting rid of the old gas that was in the truck.

I installed a new TPS yesterday morning, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve, and installed all new gaskets of course. Re-tested, and my TPS fault code is gone and I got the #111 indicating that all was clear and working properly.

I was then able to do the KOER tests, and I got a #111 for that as well, so everything is working as it should. Since this truck has MAF, it is also SEFI, so it can self-test for cylinder balance which is kinda neat. I ran that test as well, and it ramps up the RPM and then sequentially drops out once cylinder at a time to see how much change there is, if any at all. This test ended with a code #90, which means a clear tests and that all is well.

I then made a trip out to the junkyard and scored a couple small parts I needed, and they did nt even charge me for them;). One was an air box latch, which I pulled from a Crown Vic and it was identical.

Simple mind, simple pleasures;).

Now that is progress!

As for the engine balance test, I don't remember that running on Big Blue. I'll have to go back and run the tests and see if that is one of them.

[Rembrant]

Now that is progress!

As for the engine balance test, I don't remember that running on Big Blue. I'll have to go back and run the tests and see if that is one of them.

Gary,

The way to initiate the test, according to my book at least, is to wait until the KOER test is complete and clear, and then you give the accelerator pedal a 1/4 tap, and then the test will start.

It's very noticeable when under test...the RPM's ramp up, and the engine misses and shakes as it drops each cylinder out individually. It does each cylinder, about 5 seconds each with about 5 seconds between each test.

You'll get a code between 10-80 if it finds a cylinder out of balance, and a code 90 if they're all good;).

[Gary Lewis]

Now that is progress!

As for the engine balance test, I don't remember that running on Big Blue. I'll have to go back and run the tests and see if that is one of them.

Gary,

The way to initiate the test, according to my book at least, is to wait until the KOER test is complete and clear, and then you give the accelerator pedal a 1/4 tap, and then the test will start.

It's very noticeable when under test...the RPM's ramp up, and the engine misses and shakes as it drops each cylinder out individually. It does each cylinder, about 5 seconds each with about 5 seconds between each test.

You'll get a code between 10-80 if it finds a cylinder out of balance, and a code 90 if they're all good;).

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

[grumpin]

Now that is progress!

As for the engine balance test, I don't remember that running on Big Blue. I'll have to go back and run the tests and see if that is one of them.

Gary,

The way to initiate the test, according to my book at least, is to wait until the KOER test is complete and clear, and then you give the accelerator pedal a 1/4 tap, and then the test will start.

It's very noticeable when under test...the RPM's ramp up, and the engine misses and shakes as it drops each cylinder out individually. It does each cylinder, about 5 seconds each with about 5 seconds between each test.

You'll get a code between 10-80 if it finds a cylinder out of balance, and a code 90 if they're all good;).

That's cool!

I don't remember that test when I tested my Bronco.

Speaking of which, I haven't had my tester hooked up forever. Everything has just been working.

[Rembrant]

I think '94 is the same system as my '95 and '97 had/have. There isn't a typical switching valve between the tanks. Whichever tank is selected, only that pump is on so fuel comes from the correct tank. The return line however is a bit of a challenge. I've never had one apart to try to understand it, but each tank has an FDM (Fuel Delivery Module) which includes the fuel pump and a check valve on the return line. The valve isclosed if the pump is shut off and opens when the pump is on, so the return fuel goes back to the tank that's being used.

Interesting. I must get under there and have a look around at the plumbing and see what I have. With the 1992-1997 trucks, there seem to be a lot of changes in 1994, so 1992-1993 are similar, and then 1994-1996/7 are similar...or at least that is the way it seems so far.

I thought my rear tank was full...I could have sworn that the seller said it was full...but the gauge was reading empty. I put some gas in it the other day, and the gauge came up to quarter of a tank. I tried to fill it last night, and it appears to be full...so it looks like the sending unit in the rear tank is bad. Possible to be a wiring issue I suppose, but from reading online it seems that the sending unit in the tank is the most common failure point if the gauge isn't reading correctly (pin hole in the float bulb seems to a common culprit). Easy enough to replace I guess...after I burn all of the fuel in the tank, and drop the spare. I would say that by the time I go through all this trouble I might as well throw a new pump in there while it's all apart.

I picked up a complete set of front and rear factory swaybars for my '94 F150 (And coincidentally I removed them from a junked 1994 F150). I thought that most F150's were equipped with them in the mid-90's, but this one was not apparently. Anyway...I will rectify that shortly.

Anyway...check out these rear end link bushings. Do you guys think they need to be changed?

Haha...just kidding. I didn't take any pictures, but as you can see the rear end of this truck was quite rusty. The swaybar and mounts are fine, but once all of the heavy flakey rust was removed, the ends of the swaybar are now a bit thinner than they used to be. There's no issue with me building them back up with weld is there? I can't imagine...but figured I'd ask. I think I'll just weld them back up and grind them smooth again. I'll be getting them sand blasted and powder coated anyway.

 

[Rembrant]

I picked up a complete set of front and rear factory swaybars for my '94 F150 (And coincidentally I removed them from a junked 1994 F150). I thought that most F150's were equipped with them in the mid-90's, but this one was not apparently. Anyway...I will rectify that shortly.

Anyway...check out these rear end link bushings. Do you guys think they need to be changed?

Haha...just kidding. I didn't take any pictures, but as you can see the rear end of this truck was quite rusty. The swaybar and mounts are fine, but once all of the heavy flakey rust was removed, the ends of the swaybar are now a bit thinner than they used to be. There's no issue with me building them back up with weld is there? I can't imagine...but figured I'd ask. I think I'll just weld them back up and grind them smooth again. I'll be getting them sand blasted and powder coated anyway.

Just to clarify...when I say that the ends of the bar are "thinner", I mean only the flat ends where the end link rubbers are compressed. The round bar portion is all fine.

[grumpin]

I picked up a complete set of front and rear factory swaybars for my '94 F150 (And coincidentally I removed them from a junked 1994 F150). I thought that most F150's were equipped with them in the mid-90's, but this one was not apparently. Anyway...I will rectify that shortly.

Anyway...check out these rear end link bushings. Do you guys think they need to be changed?

Haha...just kidding. I didn't take any pictures, but as you can see the rear end of this truck was quite rusty. The swaybar and mounts are fine, but once all of the heavy flakey rust was removed, the ends of the swaybar are now a bit thinner than they used to be. There's no issue with me building them back up with weld is there? I can't imagine...but figured I'd ask. I think I'll just weld them back up and grind them smooth again. I'll be getting them sand blasted and powder coated anyway.

Put a little petroleum jelly on those bushings, they'll be OK!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just to clarify...when I say that the ends of the bar are "thinner", I mean only the flat ends where the end link rubbers are compressed. The round bar portion is all fine.

Define "fine"...

It's a street driven pickup. You're not doing the Baja 500.

The bar is probably 4130 or something similar used to forge an axle.

You'll definitely dilute the alloy and destroy the heat treatment... shot peening went away with the rust on the bar.

But the area fretted away under the rubber isn't seeing much load. Anything you put back is still going to be stronger than the isolator, cups or threads.

Look at the crap material an aftermarket end link is made of.

I don't think there's any problem way out there at the end.