1984 F150 full Calif smog best tune

[NorCal-Ed]

If you want to see what's in an Engine & Emission Diagnosis manual we have the 1986 version here on the site.

Gary and Jim, thank you for the references and links, good stuff!!!

I am looking at rockauto’s factory reprint shop manual it’s 75bucks plus shipping but the ebay idea is a great, I am going to start looking right away.

I have a 1976 F100 4x4, and looking at that, it has a straight axle and coils, I was thinking if it’s anything like my 96 F250 7.3 Powerstroke manual, crew, 6’ box, I took the Dana 60 out of my 86 F350 6.9 IDI, manual, crew, long bed and everything bolted right up.

I was very surprised pleased.

I sold that 86 and learned my lesson on robbing Peter to pay Paul so to speak so I will not be taking the front end out of the 76 to put into the 84 but it’s within that 10 year window like my 86 to 96 swap so I’m hoping something like that might be the case it would save me some work but no matter, I have a little metal working skills and sticking a different front end under the 84 shouldn’t be to hard.

Hummmmm you made me just remember I have a 1976 3/4 ton Dodge that just might fit the bill!!!!

I’ll have to look tomorrow if the drives are on the same sides.

Leafs in the front coming right up.

Thanks for the idea.

Ed

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary and Jim, thank you for the references and links, good stuff!!!

I am looking at rockauto’s factory reprint shop manual it’s 75bucks plus shipping but the ebay idea is a great, I am going to start looking right away.

I have a 1976 F100 4x4, and looking at that, it has a straight axle and coils, I was thinking if it’s anything like my 96 F250 7.3 Powerstroke manual, crew, 6’ box, I took the Dana 60 out of my 86 F350 6.9 IDI, manual, crew, long bed and everything bolted right up.

I was very surprised pleased.

I sold that 86 and learned my lesson on robbing Peter to pay Paul so to speak so I will not be taking the front end out of the 76 to put into the 84 but it’s within that 10 year window like my 86 to 96 swap so I’m hoping something like that might be the case it would save me some work but no matter, I have a little metal working skills and sticking a different front end under the 84 shouldn’t be to hard.

Hummmmm you made me just remember I have a 1976 3/4 ton Dodge that just might fit the bill!!!!

I’ll have to look tomorrow if the drives are on the same sides.

Leafs in the front coming right up.

Thanks for the idea.

Ed

You don't want leafs in the front.

Bronco/150 frames are completely different than 250/350 4x4 leaf spring trucks.

If you want to go with a '78-'79 coil spring, disc brake, high pinion D44 it's going to be set up for coils. (and it will have 5 on 5.5)

The only problem is that the front of the frame changed A LOT between '79 & '80 when this generation of truck was born.

IDK about things like steering boxes, control arms, etc.

If you have the ability to fab suspensions and radius arms then you might look at what it would take to make it work, or check a specialist like JBG.

Edit: or get some ideas from the James Duff catalog who offer a 77.5-79 open knuckle D44 into a 1980+ Bronco/150 swap kit.

There are threads and videos aplenty out there.

I know very little about this kind of SAS.

[81-F150-Explorer]

1984 EVTM:

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-bronco-f150-350-electrical-vacuum-troubleshooting-manual.html

There's also the Emissions Diagnosis & Engine Electronics supplement to the 1984 FSM.

Seems like what you need....

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-truck-engine-electronics-emissions-diagnosis-manual.html

I can't vouch for this because I've never had to deal with EEC in a 100% compliance state like California, but Ralph has plenty of dealer experience so I'm sure he could tell you how worthwhile it could be.

Yes, if it's running, and all the stuff is working correctly, the MCU, EEC (depending on engine) work great. When they don't work correctly it can get frustrating.

The manuals for testing various parts, and procedures is invaluable. Most will tell you how to go about fixing certain engine diagnostic codes, in a step by step routine. This helps to prevent replacing parts on a vehicle that are still good.

Getting parts for them is a nightmare sometimes too.

-------------------

As for rural counties being smog test exempt... It goes by zip-code. Usually in counties with high elevations, that the factory smog equipment would not be compliant at. My truck for example is only compliant to 3500 ft.

You still have the obligation to keep the smog related equipment in good working order. The CHP can pull you over for smog related violations and make you fix it to California specs no matter how old it is. Smoking engine, rich running etc... could get you nabbed as example.

 

[NorCal-Ed]

Yes, if it's running, and all the stuff is working correctly, the MCU, EEC (depending on engine) work great. When they don't work correctly it can get frustrating.

The manuals for testing various parts, and procedures is invaluable. Most will tell you how to go about fixing certain engine diagnostic codes, in a step by step routine. This helps to prevent replacing parts on a vehicle that are still good.

Getting parts for them is a nightmare sometimes too.

-------------------

As for rural counties being smog test exempt... It goes by zip-code. Usually in counties with high elevations, that the factory smog equipment would not be compliant at. My truck for example is only compliant to 3500 ft.

You still have the obligation to keep the smog related equipment in good working order. The CHP can pull you over for smog related violations and make you fix it to California specs no matter how old it is. Smoking engine, rich running etc... could get you nabbed as example.

Hey Jim and 81 F-150 explorer (not sure of your name sorry) great insights thank you stuff to consider and look into.

My goal was to get my 1984 Cali smog and registered Bully F150 automatic running perfect before my right shoulder surgery which was not quite 4 weeks ago, because it is the only automatic vehicle I own and in the event of an emergency I could drive it, my wife doesn’t drive for health reasons but she could and would if the absolute need arrived.

Well I did not quite make it. My surgery date came and I was unable to finish but let me fill you in on where I left off now that I am no longer on pain meds and can use both hands which is much easier to type/text.

By the way the surgery went well the recovery is going as expected and the reason for the surgery is abuse, misuse and old age. Torn rotator cuff, torn bicep, collar bone spur clean up (grind out arthritis) which leaves you in a total isolation sling for 6 weeks. Then therapy starts and that lasts at least 6 weeks and then living life therapy starts after that. Very important not to abuse it but make sure to use it.

Ok on to the Bully.

Got a recon carb from Guaranteed Carburetors from Florida. My carb had a broken mixture screw below the base plate surface and I didn’t want to mess with it and mess it up and lose any core value.

Side note even with the broken mixture screw Guaranteed Carburetor's still gave me a full core refund.

Just a word to the wise the recon carb, I’m guessing any and or all recon carb business’s, do not have any of the necessary adjustments that can be done on the bench or may I say should be done to the carb before mounting.

So if you were to mount the carb right out of the box you might be very disappointed.

From transfer slot exposures, to high idle adjustments, to choke horn blade position adjustments, electronic choke adjustment, initial mixture screw adjustment, accelerator pump lever adjustment everything was not even close but after bench tuning the carb it fired right up and the choke worked as it should.

So I had the mixture screws out from “gently” fully seated, 2 turns. Put the vacuum gauge on (full manifold vacuum) and got the best idle and most vacuum at 3 and a half turns out.

Usually you turn the screws in but my carb wasn’t having it?

Maybe clogged passages? Messed up passages? Messed up adjustment screws?

Thoughts anyone?

So I went with it.

Hooked my old school RAC tach dwell meter up by putting in a jump wire in on top of the coil plug and hooked the other lead to ground.

Selected the 8 cylinder setting and it was way off, like a 1000 rpms higher off.

Either my old tach dwell meter is no good or I had it hooked up wrong?

Either way I am going to purchase a digital timing light that has a tach built in so I did my timing and idle adjustments by ear and a dial in timing light and a standard timing light.

Any suggestions as to a good econo digital timing light?

So get this the best I got the old Cali smogged 302 C6 to run with no detonation detected was 17 1/2 degrees btc. Of course the PIP was disconnected and once reconnected other carb adjustments were made as needed because the computer was active again.

Is that crazy?

This all started out because it had a flat spot that would stall the engine if you didn’t feather and pump the carb while trying to accelerate from full stop and it didn’t seem to have any power. It strained to get to highway speed to be able to set the cruise control.

The cruise control could maintain highway speed (65) on flat ground anyways but just didn’t seem to have any power to pass or pull a hill. I’m at 4200 feet elevation.

I’m not complaining about how this little 302 has came alive but I was suspect of my dial in timing light so I highlighted all my timing marks on the harmonic balancer and used my regular old timing light, again disconnecting the PIP, and the results were the same.

Really hard to see the timing marks by the way with all that’s in the way just like adjusting the carb mixture screws, adjusting those mixture screws was a real HOT PITA trying to use just a straight slot screw driver and a mirror.

If anyone has a carb mixture screw adjustment tool/hack please let me know.

My thought is to put tight fitting hose over the ends of the screws, like I do to install spark plugs, so I can easily adjust the screws and plan on leaving the hose on and then use a paint marker to index on the hose and a point that would be visible on the carb or whatever the hose is near that is stationary.

Love to hear how you all deal with those mixture screws.

I realize that those screws are not meant to be adjusted from the factory so their location is not meant to be convenient and they are not convenient to adjust that’s for sure. LOL

The down shift linkage adjustment is perfect and no stumble from stop, zero to 60 in way less that an hour like it was. Wasn’t running hot no audible detonation and a ear to ear grin.

Pulled into the post office after a pretty hard test drive, turned the truck off went inside to my PO Box got my mail and thumbed through the mail put my seat belt on and no start, just cranked.

Flooded? No gas smell.

No spark?

Way to much advance?

I just don’t know.

So I gave it one to the floor pump after a couple of tries and went for an extended crank.

I don’t know maybe after 5 seconds maybe 15 seconds way longer than normal it was like one cylinder fired I kept cranking then another then another it seemed and sounded like it finally was wanting to stay running and it stumbled a bit then cleared up and was idling just fine and ran just as good.

Thunderstorm came so I parked it for the evening planning on using the OBD 1 reader the next day and start to work through any codes.

Before I used the OBD 1 reader I planned on doing a cold start and go test drive it again.

One pump and started right up on choke and high idle and after it warmed up, choke full off and regular (by ear no tach) idle.

Took it for a good hard test drive to try to duplicate the conditions pulled up to my shop turned off the engine waited a few minutes and no start just crank. No fuel smell.

Thought I would give it some pumps still no start so did the long crank and it eventually stumbled to a start.

Well you got to love consistency.

So I pulled the codes via KOEO (key on engine off) “Innova”OBD 1 reader as suggested by one of my new “Bully Buddies” :-) and got a

31 o and a 41 c.

According to the booklet, if I am reading the booklet correctly a

31 o could be;

Trucks only: EGR valve control sensor (ex. V8 models) does the “ex.” mean except?

The other 31 o is;

Trucks only: EVAP control system below minimum voltage

And a continuous memory code

41 c:

HEGO (HO2S) sensor signal out of range/always lean

Well, that is right where I left it. The next day I went under the knife.

I have not got any shop manuals yet which I should order while I’m convalescing.

In the mean time if anybody knows where the trouble shooting procedures are on this forum a nudge in the right direction or a link would be great.

Your own experiences and fixes would be even better. Those shop manuals speak “Fordtechspeakanese” and are confusing sometimes.

It will be a few weeks before I can get back under the hood.

Sorry about the long absence and thank you all in advance for taking the time to read and any responses you have.

Ed

 

[NorCal-Ed]

Hey Jim and 81 F-150 explorer (not sure of your name sorry) great insights thank you stuff to consider and look into.

My goal was to get my 1984 Cali smog and registered Bully F150 automatic running perfect before my right shoulder surgery which was not quite 4 weeks ago, because it is the only automatic vehicle I own and in the event of an emergency I could drive it, my wife doesn’t drive for health reasons but she could and would if the absolute need arrived.

Well I did not quite make it. My surgery date came and I was unable to finish but let me fill you in on where I left off now that I am no longer on pain meds and can use both hands which is much easier to type/text.

By the way the surgery went well the recovery is going as expected and the reason for the surgery is abuse, misuse and old age. Torn rotator cuff, torn bicep, collar bone spur clean up (grind out arthritis) which leaves you in a total isolation sling for 6 weeks. Then therapy starts and that lasts at least 6 weeks and then living life therapy starts after that. Very important not to abuse it but make sure to use it.

Ok on to the Bully.

Got a recon carb from Guaranteed Carburetors from Florida. My carb had a broken mixture screw below the base plate surface and I didn’t want to mess with it and mess it up and lose any core value.

Side note even with the broken mixture screw Guaranteed Carburetor's still gave me a full core refund.

Just a word to the wise the recon carb, I’m guessing any and or all recon carb business’s, do not have any of the necessary adjustments that can be done on the bench or may I say should be done to the carb before mounting.

So if you were to mount the carb right out of the box you might be very disappointed.

From transfer slot exposures, to high idle adjustments, to choke horn blade position adjustments, electronic choke adjustment, initial mixture screw adjustment, accelerator pump lever adjustment everything was not even close but after bench tuning the carb it fired right up and the choke worked as it should.

So I had the mixture screws out from “gently” fully seated, 2 turns. Put the vacuum gauge on (full manifold vacuum) and got the best idle and most vacuum at 3 and a half turns out.

Usually you turn the screws in but my carb wasn’t having it?

Maybe clogged passages? Messed up passages? Messed up adjustment screws?

Thoughts anyone?

So I went with it.

Hooked my old school RAC tach dwell meter up by putting in a jump wire in on top of the coil plug and hooked the other lead to ground.

Selected the 8 cylinder setting and it was way off, like a 1000 rpms higher off.

Either my old tach dwell meter is no good or I had it hooked up wrong?

Either way I am going to purchase a digital timing light that has a tach built in so I did my timing and idle adjustments by ear and a dial in timing light and a standard timing light.

Any suggestions as to a good econo digital timing light?

So get this the best I got the old Cali smogged 302 C6 to run with no detonation detected was 17 1/2 degrees btc. Of course the PIP was disconnected and once reconnected other carb adjustments were made as needed because the computer was active again.

Is that crazy?

This all started out because it had a flat spot that would stall the engine if you didn’t feather and pump the carb while trying to accelerate from full stop and it didn’t seem to have any power. It strained to get to highway speed to be able to set the cruise control.

The cruise control could maintain highway speed (65) on flat ground anyways but just didn’t seem to have any power to pass or pull a hill. I’m at 4200 feet elevation.

I’m not complaining about how this little 302 has came alive but I was suspect of my dial in timing light so I highlighted all my timing marks on the harmonic balancer and used my regular old timing light, again disconnecting the PIP, and the results were the same.

Really hard to see the timing marks by the way with all that’s in the way just like adjusting the carb mixture screws, adjusting those mixture screws was a real HOT PITA trying to use just a straight slot screw driver and a mirror.

If anyone has a carb mixture screw adjustment tool/hack please let me know.

My thought is to put tight fitting hose over the ends of the screws, like I do to install spark plugs, so I can easily adjust the screws and plan on leaving the hose on and then use a paint marker to index on the hose and a point that would be visible on the carb or whatever the hose is near that is stationary.

Love to hear how you all deal with those mixture screws.

I realize that those screws are not meant to be adjusted from the factory so their location is not meant to be convenient and they are not convenient to adjust that’s for sure. LOL

The down shift linkage adjustment is perfect and no stumble from stop, zero to 60 in way less that an hour like it was. Wasn’t running hot no audible detonation and a ear to ear grin.

Pulled into the post office after a pretty hard test drive, turned the truck off went inside to my PO Box got my mail and thumbed through the mail put my seat belt on and no start, just cranked.

Flooded? No gas smell.

No spark?

Way to much advance?

I just don’t know.

So I gave it one to the floor pump after a couple of tries and went for an extended crank.

I don’t know maybe after 5 seconds maybe 15 seconds way longer than normal it was like one cylinder fired I kept cranking then another then another it seemed and sounded like it finally was wanting to stay running and it stumbled a bit then cleared up and was idling just fine and ran just as good.

Thunderstorm came so I parked it for the evening planning on using the OBD 1 reader the next day and start to work through any codes.

Before I used the OBD 1 reader I planned on doing a cold start and go test drive it again.

One pump and started right up on choke and high idle and after it warmed up, choke full off and regular (by ear no tach) idle.

Took it for a good hard test drive to try to duplicate the conditions pulled up to my shop turned off the engine waited a few minutes and no start just crank. No fuel smell.

Thought I would give it some pumps still no start so did the long crank and it eventually stumbled to a start.

Well you got to love consistency.

So I pulled the codes via KOEO (key on engine off) “Innova”OBD 1 reader as suggested by one of my new “Bully Buddies” :-) and got a

31 o and a 41 c.

According to the booklet, if I am reading the booklet correctly a

31 o could be;

Trucks only: EGR valve control sensor (ex. V8 models) does the “ex.” mean except?

The other 31 o is;

Trucks only: EVAP control system below minimum voltage

And a continuous memory code

41 c:

HEGO (HO2S) sensor signal out of range/always lean

Well, that is right where I left it. The next day I went under the knife.

I have not got any shop manuals yet which I should order while I’m convalescing.

In the mean time if anybody knows where the trouble shooting procedures are on this forum a nudge in the right direction or a link would be great.

Your own experiences and fixes would be even better. Those shop manuals speak “Fordtechspeakanese” and are confusing sometimes.

It will be a few weeks before I can get back under the hood.

Sorry about the long absence and thank you all in advance for taking the time to read and any responses you have.

Ed

Oppps, I said PIP, which I think is a thing but I meant to say “spout”

Maybe I can blame it on the pain meds. LOL

Thanks again guys.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hey Jim and 81 F-150 explorer (not sure of your name sorry) great insights thank you stuff to consider and look into.

My goal was to get my 1984 Cali smog and registered Bully F150 automatic running perfect before my right shoulder surgery which was not quite 4 weeks ago, because it is the only automatic vehicle I own and in the event of an emergency I could drive it, my wife doesn’t drive for health reasons but she could and would if the absolute need arrived.

Well I did not quite make it. My surgery date came and I was unable to finish but let me fill you in on where I left off now that I am no longer on pain meds and can use both hands which is much easier to type/text.

By the way the surgery went well the recovery is going as expected and the reason for the surgery is abuse, misuse and old age. Torn rotator cuff, torn bicep, collar bone spur clean up (grind out arthritis) which leaves you in a total isolation sling for 6 weeks. Then therapy starts and that lasts at least 6 weeks and then living life therapy starts after that. Very important not to abuse it but make sure to use it.

Ok on to the Bully.

Got a recon carb from Guaranteed Carburetors from Florida. My carb had a broken mixture screw below the base plate surface and I didn’t want to mess with it and mess it up and lose any core value.

Side note even with the broken mixture screw Guaranteed Carburetor's still gave me a full core refund.

Just a word to the wise the recon carb, I’m guessing any and or all recon carb business’s, do not have any of the necessary adjustments that can be done on the bench or may I say should be done to the carb before mounting.

So if you were to mount the carb right out of the box you might be very disappointed.

From transfer slot exposures, to high idle adjustments, to choke horn blade position adjustments, electronic choke adjustment, initial mixture screw adjustment, accelerator pump lever adjustment everything was not even close but after bench tuning the carb it fired right up and the choke worked as it should.

So I had the mixture screws out from “gently” fully seated, 2 turns. Put the vacuum gauge on (full manifold vacuum) and got the best idle and most vacuum at 3 and a half turns out.

Usually you turn the screws in but my carb wasn’t having it?

Maybe clogged passages? Messed up passages? Messed up adjustment screws?

Thoughts anyone?

So I went with it.

Hooked my old school RAC tach dwell meter up by putting in a jump wire in on top of the coil plug and hooked the other lead to ground.

Selected the 8 cylinder setting and it was way off, like a 1000 rpms higher off.

Either my old tach dwell meter is no good or I had it hooked up wrong?

Either way I am going to purchase a digital timing light that has a tach built in so I did my timing and idle adjustments by ear and a dial in timing light and a standard timing light.

Any suggestions as to a good econo digital timing light?

So get this the best I got the old Cali smogged 302 C6 to run with no detonation detected was 17 1/2 degrees btc. Of course the PIP was disconnected and once reconnected other carb adjustments were made as needed because the computer was active again.

Is that crazy?

This all started out because it had a flat spot that would stall the engine if you didn’t feather and pump the carb while trying to accelerate from full stop and it didn’t seem to have any power. It strained to get to highway speed to be able to set the cruise control.

The cruise control could maintain highway speed (65) on flat ground anyways but just didn’t seem to have any power to pass or pull a hill. I’m at 4200 feet elevation.

I’m not complaining about how this little 302 has came alive but I was suspect of my dial in timing light so I highlighted all my timing marks on the harmonic balancer and used my regular old timing light, again disconnecting the PIP, and the results were the same.

Really hard to see the timing marks by the way with all that’s in the way just like adjusting the carb mixture screws, adjusting those mixture screws was a real HOT PITA trying to use just a straight slot screw driver and a mirror.

If anyone has a carb mixture screw adjustment tool/hack please let me know.

My thought is to put tight fitting hose over the ends of the screws, like I do to install spark plugs, so I can easily adjust the screws and plan on leaving the hose on and then use a paint marker to index on the hose and a point that would be visible on the carb or whatever the hose is near that is stationary.

Love to hear how you all deal with those mixture screws.

I realize that those screws are not meant to be adjusted from the factory so their location is not meant to be convenient and they are not convenient to adjust that’s for sure. LOL

The down shift linkage adjustment is perfect and no stumble from stop, zero to 60 in way less that an hour like it was. Wasn’t running hot no audible detonation and a ear to ear grin.

Pulled into the post office after a pretty hard test drive, turned the truck off went inside to my PO Box got my mail and thumbed through the mail put my seat belt on and no start, just cranked.

Flooded? No gas smell.

No spark?

Way to much advance?

I just don’t know.

So I gave it one to the floor pump after a couple of tries and went for an extended crank.

I don’t know maybe after 5 seconds maybe 15 seconds way longer than normal it was like one cylinder fired I kept cranking then another then another it seemed and sounded like it finally was wanting to stay running and it stumbled a bit then cleared up and was idling just fine and ran just as good.

Thunderstorm came so I parked it for the evening planning on using the OBD 1 reader the next day and start to work through any codes.

Before I used the OBD 1 reader I planned on doing a cold start and go test drive it again.

One pump and started right up on choke and high idle and after it warmed up, choke full off and regular (by ear no tach) idle.

Took it for a good hard test drive to try to duplicate the conditions pulled up to my shop turned off the engine waited a few minutes and no start just crank. No fuel smell.

Thought I would give it some pumps still no start so did the long crank and it eventually stumbled to a start.

Well you got to love consistency.

So I pulled the codes via KOEO (key on engine off) “Innova”OBD 1 reader as suggested by one of my new “Bully Buddies” :-) and got a

31 o and a 41 c.

According to the booklet, if I am reading the booklet correctly a

31 o could be;

Trucks only: EGR valve control sensor (ex. V8 models) does the “ex.” mean except?

The other 31 o is;

Trucks only: EVAP control system below minimum voltage

And a continuous memory code

41 c:

HEGO (HO2S) sensor signal out of range/always lean

Well, that is right where I left it. The next day I went under the knife.

I have not got any shop manuals yet which I should order while I’m convalescing.

In the mean time if anybody knows where the trouble shooting procedures are on this forum a nudge in the right direction or a link would be great.

Your own experiences and fixes would be even better. Those shop manuals speak “Fordtechspeakanese” and are confusing sometimes.

It will be a few weeks before I can get back under the hood.

Sorry about the long absence and thank you all in advance for taking the time to read and any responses you have.

Ed

Glad to hear your surgery and recovery are going well Ed!

81 F150 Explorer would be Ralph (he's much more knowledgeable than me)

No advice on a new digital timing light.

Have you checked that your damper hasn't slipped. That you are actually at TDC #1 when the mark is aligned?

Can't offer anything on a carb adjustment tool either.

My truck had recessed and plugged inhex screws.

I bought a Lisle adjusting tool where the spring had hex on one end and slot on the other nearly 40 years ago.

Could it be that your TFI module is getting heat soaked?

Maybe the next time you duplicate the drive and pull up in front of the shop, pop the hood open.

See if that makes a difference in getting the engine to catch and run.

I'm not sure which diagnostic manual you're looking for.

The EVTM's are under Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM (since the '84 version isn't hosted)

You might also look under Documentation at manuals & literature.

 

[ckuske]

Glad to hear your surgery and recovery are going well Ed!

81 F150 Explorer would be Ralph (he's much more knowledgeable than me)

No advice on a new digital timing light.

Have you checked that your damper hasn't slipped. That you are actually at TDC #1 when the mark is aligned?

Can't offer anything on a carb adjustment tool either.

My truck had recessed and plugged inhex screws.

I bought a Lisle adjusting tool where the spring had hex on one end and slot on the other nearly 40 years ago.

Could it be that your TFI module is getting heat soaked?

Maybe the next time you duplicate the drive and pull up in front of the shop, pop the hood open.

See if that makes a difference in getting the engine to catch and run.

I'm not sure which diagnostic manual you're looking for.

The EVTM's are under Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM (since the '84 version isn't hosted)

You might also look under Documentation at manuals & literature.

The timing should be 10 degrees with the spout disconnected. I'm not sure how things will behave if its that far advanced from normal with respect to the ECU, but I'm not an expert either.

The screws are hard to get to, I've heard of the tubing/hose trick as well but I just risk mangling of my limbs and reach in there with a slotted screwdrivers and some patience.

The Code 31 may be able to be fixed via replacing the EVP sensor that screws onto the top of the EGR valve.

I still get Code 31 from time to time, but I have a feeling there is a break or chafe in the wiring that I can't find (so far). It's a real beast to check the wiring at the back of the engine and not having a lift, etc...

[85lebaront2]

Oppps, I said PIP, which I think is a thing but I meant to say “spout”

Maybe I can blame it on the pain meds. LOL

Thanks again guys.

Let me weigh in on this with my thoughts (1) timing, have you checked that the balancer hasn't slipped, we are talking about a nearly 40 year old part second item would be timing chain jumped, had a customer with a Pontiac, similar case, only ran decently with the timing way advanced until it finally got so far off it wouldn't run at all. (2) lack of power, see #1. (3) hard starting hot, also see #1.

Other causes, catalytic converter failing, ie, internal strata breaking apart or just clogged. I had a Plymouth Horizon that would periodically not be able to get out of it's own way, hit a bump and it would take off, I got under it with it cold and thumped the cat, rattle, rattle like a can of rocks (BTW, only vehicles I have ever had cats fail on have all been Chrysler products).

Hard hot start, flooding, both could cause this, or as has been mentioned the TFI module which on yours is on the distributor. In 1990 Ford started putting them on the left inner fender near the EEC to alleviate the heat issue.

If you need wiring diagrams, I do have AllData Pro which has most of them.