1984 F150 full Calif smog best tune

[Gary Lewis]

It looks like this is a thread in the “main” forum? Yes?

I’m not sure if I reply clicking on the last posts “reply” button if all, Gary, Jim and Chris will be notified via email or within the forum some how or if I have to

Click “reply” to each individual post in this thread?

Not even sure if I’m asking the correct question.

Anyways a huge thank you to Gary, Jim and Chris for all your information and help and encouragement.

I’m not sure if you noticed but this is the second day in a row that I have accessed this forum!!!! Woot woot ;-) Thank you Gary for the link to the login page.

Yes Jim and Gary, Chris has the skills. :-)

Chris thank you for lots. I have saved the smog sticker and manipulated it and printed it out and saved into my notes.

I have not found a “Calibration code” as Gary requested. The stickers have not faired well over the last 40 years just like the wiring and me. Lol

Do you happen to have a legible calibration code you could send me a pic of or are they vehicle specific?

I went to AutoZone yesterday and picked up an OBD 1 reader, the same one you linked to and the same price as Amazon.

I guess Amazon isn’t the most economic choice any more. Same price and I have Prime so no shipping but at AutoZone I walked out the door with it and because I live in such a rural place Amazon takes a minimum of three days.

I was surprised usually around here, anyways, the chain auto stores are at least two if not three times internet prices.

I have located the OBD 1 plug ins thank you right where you said and YouTube and Google had chasing my tail again and my Haines manual didn’t even mention OBD 1 just OBD II?

The Innova 1345 reader, same one you linked to is pinned different than my plug but it covers a few years soooo……

It looks like all I need is;

E 359 signal return ground

C 658 check engine light ground

1 209 self test output

To get the reader to scan besides a carburetor and un shorting wires, minor details. Lol

Replacing all vacuum lines with silicone lines sounds like an excellent idea, was that a complete kit or an individual each by each replacement, I can’t recall what you said and I don’t dare navigate away from this reply window.

If “Motorcraft” ICM? Module on side of carb are known to fail is there a better brand?

Also anybody tried getting the fender mounted heat sync for the module, not sure what year it’s from, and get the module off the distributor and away from direct engine heat?

Not sure what it would take to have a 3 prong hook up from distributor to module but if I am going to have to re wire my module/coil, water temp part of the harness I might as well go long and take it to the fender?

I got the new module plug but I’m working on a quick fix “Jerry Rig” wiring fix at the moment so I can get the carb, when it gets here, installed and see if the rebuild is any good and get started messing with the timing and carb and OBD 1 codes.

Do you happen to know what is up with my timing indicator that I described in my other post? The thing that look like an external crankshaft/harmonic balancer position sensor bracket thingy with no wires attached to it.

If you need a pic I can accommodate.

Ok well I have some work ahead of me once the carb comes, hoping today but probably tomorrow.

Thank you for everything

Ed

Yes, this thread is in the main forum, so you got it right. Plus, I'm glad you are getting logged in correctly.

And you are replying to the posts correctly. However, this forum is unusual in that people have to subscribe to get notified by email, so Jim or Chris might not be notified. Hopefully Chris will be back to answer your questions.

But calibration codes are quasi vehicle specific. However Chris might have the calibration info for his truck and if his is the same as yours that info should work.

[81-F150-Explorer]

Yes, this thread is in the main forum, so you got it right. Plus, I'm glad you are getting logged in correctly.

And you are replying to the posts correctly. However, this forum is unusual in that people have to subscribe to get notified by email, so Jim or Chris might not be notified. Hopefully Chris will be back to answer your questions.

But calibration codes are quasi vehicle specific. However Chris might have the calibration info for his truck and if his is the same as yours that info should work.

I might be able to get the calibration code by the Carb Tag# and EGR Valve#

I've seen the carb and EGR engineering numbers in his pictures...

So I will see what I can find out...

[81-F150-Explorer]

I might be able to get the calibration code by the Carb Tag# and EGR Valve#

I've seen the carb and EGR engineering numbers in his pictures...

So I will see what I can find out...

It's either Calibration Code Parts List Number: 377 or number 410.

Hope this helps.

 

[ckuske]

It looks like this is a thread in the “main” forum? Yes?

I’m not sure if I reply clicking on the last posts “reply” button if all, Gary, Jim and Chris will be notified via email or within the forum some how or if I have to

Click “reply” to each individual post in this thread?

Not even sure if I’m asking the correct question.

Anyways a huge thank you to Gary, Jim and Chris for all your information and help and encouragement.

I’m not sure if you noticed but this is the second day in a row that I have accessed this forum!!!! Woot woot ;-) Thank you Gary for the link to the login page.

Yes Jim and Gary, Chris has the skills. :-)

Chris thank you for lots. I have saved the smog sticker and manipulated it and printed it out and saved into my notes.

I have not found a “Calibration code” as Gary requested. The stickers have not faired well over the last 40 years just like the wiring and me. Lol

Do you happen to have a legible calibration code you could send me a pic of or are they vehicle specific?

I went to AutoZone yesterday and picked up an OBD 1 reader, the same one you linked to and the same price as Amazon.

I guess Amazon isn’t the most economic choice any more. Same price and I have Prime so no shipping but at AutoZone I walked out the door with it and because I live in such a rural place Amazon takes a minimum of three days.

I was surprised usually around here, anyways, the chain auto stores are at least two if not three times internet prices.

I have located the OBD 1 plug ins thank you right where you said and YouTube and Google had chasing my tail again and my Haines manual didn’t even mention OBD 1 just OBD II?

The Innova 1345 reader, same one you linked to is pinned different than my plug but it covers a few years soooo……

It looks like all I need is;

E 359 signal return ground

C 658 check engine light ground

1 209 self test output

To get the reader to scan besides a carburetor and un shorting wires, minor details. Lol

Replacing all vacuum lines with silicone lines sounds like an excellent idea, was that a complete kit or an individual each by each replacement, I can’t recall what you said and I don’t dare navigate away from this reply window.

If “Motorcraft” ICM? Module on side of carb are known to fail is there a better brand?

Also anybody tried getting the fender mounted heat sync for the module, not sure what year it’s from, and get the module off the distributor and away from direct engine heat?

Not sure what it would take to have a 3 prong hook up from distributor to module but if I am going to have to re wire my module/coil, water temp part of the harness I might as well go long and take it to the fender?

I got the new module plug but I’m working on a quick fix “Jerry Rig” wiring fix at the moment so I can get the carb, when it gets here, installed and see if the rebuild is any good and get started messing with the timing and carb and OBD 1 codes.

Do you happen to know what is up with my timing indicator that I described in my other post? The thing that look like an external crankshaft/harmonic balancer position sensor bracket thingy with no wires attached to it.

If you need a pic I can accommodate.

Ok well I have some work ahead of me once the carb comes, hoping today but probably tomorrow.

Thank you for everything

Ed

The calibration code on my truck was long gone by the time I got it back, and when I was 16 I was probably too dumb to realize it's importance.

Jim is right on those codes - there are only a couple candidates and the variation is very small between them. While the engineer in me hates "close enough", sometimes with these trucks we can only make educated guesses and do what makes sense.

The calibration codes everyone is referring to is here, it lists the smog parts applicable to each configuration.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/calibration-info--part-s.html

Regarding the module on the distributor, that's the TFI module. People do relocate it because of thermal issues - I haven't, mine is holding up fine. But it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so while things are "heavy rework"

On the timing indicator, I'm not sure. A picture would help, others could easily chime in on that as well.

 

[NorCal-Ed]

The calibration code on my truck was long gone by the time I got it back, and when I was 16 I was probably too dumb to realize it's importance.

Jim is right on those codes - there are only a couple candidates and the variation is very small between them. While the engineer in me hates "close enough", sometimes with these trucks we can only make educated guesses and do what makes sense.

The calibration codes everyone is referring to is here, it lists the smog parts applicable to each configuration.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/calibration-info--part-s.html

Regarding the module on the distributor, that's the TFI module. People do relocate it because of thermal issues - I haven't, mine is holding up fine. But it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so while things are "heavy rework"

On the timing indicator, I'm not sure. A picture would help, others could easily chime in on that as well.

These are pics of my timing pointer.

There are no wires connected to it.

The pointer bracket appears to be bolted around a small block that seems to be part of the block and from what I can tell the little block covered by the pointer bracket is not solid but looks as though something might fit in it?

As you can see the pointer bracket has what looks like to me like a peep sight?

The Haynes manual does not show any details about timing pointers or harmonic balancers or any mention of external or internal “crankshaft position sensor”

So if you can solve this unique mystery timing pointer configuration that would be lovely.

I just want to make sure something isn’t missing that will keep me from getting the old Bully Bully from running correctly.

Speaking of things that may need adjusting, I got my carb this afternoon and as I was swapping things over from my carb to their rebuilt carb I pondered about the adjustments of the two main vacuum actuated items on this carb which I started researching and have not come up with definitive answers;

My vacuum “throttle kicker” slash “dash pot” for my 84 5.0 does not leak vacuum and when I apply vacuum to the diaphragm part of the device the “kicker” doesn’t really move but it doesn’t leak.

I have read what Gary has on the forum for the 2150, at least what I was directed to via a Google search and I can not figure how to test or adjust. Stuff I read about on other Google searches dealt with electronic controlled not vacuum and A/C. I found nothing that said the vacuum actuator had to do with A/C and I found nothing on how to test and adjust.

However if it is working there is an adjustment that allows you to move the entire unit to obtain a proper curb idle rpm.

Same goes for the vacuum “choke pull off” I think is what it is called.

I have to transfer these items over to the rebuilt carb and I have not found any test or adjusting instructions.

Interesting the Haynes says that the computer input carb was a stop gap to fuel injection and that it will not be covered in the book and to take it to a dealer.

Just for fun I called a dealer or two and their response to me bringing the truck to them was they do not work on vehicles that old and do not work on carburetors.

It didn’t surprise me, I ran into the same thing on my bike and it’s a 2004.LOL

I appreciate that right up front because I would hate to pay someone that would mess things up not as bad as me and it still be wrong. Lol

That’s why this forum is so important to me. The knowledge and skills to keep these vehicles alive and well are passing away just like the mechanics that took care of them when they were new.

Thank you Gary for all your efforts and one day I hope to become very familiar with using this forum and with the knowledge I acquire to get and keep this 84 running at its best and to be able to help others sort out their unique troubles that seem to be built into these trucks especially if you live in California and have to leave all the transitionary learn as they go smog on.

I guess once the mystery is over it will all make sense and will be easy.

Oh how I wish I could have a smog delete engine under the hood.

Hummmmmm in rural California you only have to smog upon title transfer soooooo I could pull this stock smogged engine and wrap it up and store it and put a proper 5.0 under the hood. Very interesting, hey good talk thanks for the idea.

I’m now also looking for a rebuildable 302 besides a front 1/2 ton Ford solid differential for the front of my truck, don’t really want to keep the twin I beam? differential or whatever they call it, not sure of the gear ration but I can change a ring and pinion easy enough.

Thank you Chris and anyone else that might have replies and answers to my step by step learning curve.

Ed

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

These are pics of my timing pointer.

There are no wires connected to it.

The pointer bracket appears to be bolted around a small block that seems to be part of the block and from what I can tell the little block covered by the pointer bracket is not solid but looks as though something might fit in it?

As you can see the pointer bracket has what looks like to me like a peep sight?

The Haynes manual does not show any details about timing pointers or harmonic balancers or any mention of external or internal “crankshaft position sensor”

So if you can solve this unique mystery timing pointer configuration that would be lovely.

I just want to make sure something isn’t missing that will keep me from getting the old Bully Bully from running correctly.

Speaking of things that may need adjusting, I got my carb this afternoon and as I was swapping things over from my carb to their rebuilt carb I pondered about the adjustments of the two main vacuum actuated items on this carb which I started researching and have not come up with definitive answers;

My vacuum “throttle kicker” slash “dash pot” for my 84 5.0 does not leak vacuum and when I apply vacuum to the diaphragm part of the device the “kicker” doesn’t really move but it doesn’t leak.

I have read what Gary has on the forum for the 2150, at least what I was directed to via a Google search and I can not figure how to test or adjust. Stuff I read about on other Google searches dealt with electronic controlled not vacuum and A/C. I found nothing that said the vacuum actuator had to do with A/C and I found nothing on how to test and adjust.

However if it is working there is an adjustment that allows you to move the entire unit to obtain a proper curb idle rpm.

Same goes for the vacuum “choke pull off” I think is what it is called.

I have to transfer these items over to the rebuilt carb and I have not found any test or adjusting instructions.

Interesting the Haynes says that the computer input carb was a stop gap to fuel injection and that it will not be covered in the book and to take it to a dealer.

Just for fun I called a dealer or two and their response to me bringing the truck to them was they do not work on vehicles that old and do not work on carburetors.

It didn’t surprise me, I ran into the same thing on my bike and it’s a 2004.LOL

I appreciate that right up front because I would hate to pay someone that would mess things up not as bad as me and it still be wrong. Lol

That’s why this forum is so important to me. The knowledge and skills to keep these vehicles alive and well are passing away just like the mechanics that took care of them when they were new.

Thank you Gary for all your efforts and one day I hope to become very familiar with using this forum and with the knowledge I acquire to get and keep this 84 running at its best and to be able to help others sort out their unique troubles that seem to be built into these trucks especially if you live in California and have to leave all the transitionary learn as they go smog on.

I guess once the mystery is over it will all make sense and will be easy.

Oh how I wish I could have a smog delete engine under the hood.

Hummmmmm in rural California you only have to smog upon title transfer soooooo I could pull this stock smogged engine and wrap it up and store it and put a proper 5.0 under the hood. Very interesting, hey good talk thanks for the idea.

I’m now also looking for a rebuildable 302 besides a front 1/2 ton Ford solid differential for the front of my truck, don’t really want to keep the twin I beam? differential or whatever they call it, not sure of the gear ration but I can change a ring and pinion easy enough.

Thank you Chris and anyone else that might have replies and answers to my step by step learning curve.

Ed

No wires, and nothing fits in the 'peep sight's.

It is the opposite side (square edge) that you use to set the timing.

With the SPOUT unplugged.

Your 2150 should have wires leading to a solenoid valve.

This is what the ECM uses to dial in the mixture.

If you want a book that covers your unique carburetor and emissions system I think you need a copy of the 1984 Factory Service Manual.

Often you can find these in good condition on eBay, and I believe HiPo Parts offers them on CD.

Some trouble shooting can be found in Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1984

Edit: strike that. Gary doesn't have a 1984 EVTM up on the site.

But 1985 should serve. The 5.0 EFI was only available mid year.

Unfortunately there never was a solid front axle found in this generation trucks.

The F-350 started offering the Dana 60 in 1985, but it has 8 lug hubs and leaf springs, neither of which really work for you.

[ckuske]

No wires, and nothing fits in the 'peep sight's.

It is the opposite side (square edge) that you use to set the timing.

With the SPOUT unplugged.

Your 2150 should have wires leading to a solenoid valve.

This is what the ECM uses to dial in the mixture.

If you want a book that covers your unique carburetor and emissions system I think you need a copy of the 1984 Factory Service Manual.

Often you can find these in good condition on eBay, and I believe HiPo Parts offers them on CD.

Some trouble shooting can be found in Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1984

Edit: strike that. Gary doesn't have a 1984 EVTM up on the site.

But 1985 should serve. The 5.0 EFI was only available mid year.

Unfortunately there never was a solid front axle found in this generation trucks.

The F-350 started offering the Dana 60 in 1985, but it has 8 lug hubs and leaf springs, neither of which really work for you.

Regarding the kicker solenoid, there is a hold down screw between the solenoid and the carb. It is vertically oriented (looking down at the engine, the head of the screw is staring up at you). You need to loosen that. Then, you can turn the screw with a wrench on the spring loaded portion of solenoid itself to adjust the idle up/down. Then, you would cinch down the hold down screw again to hold it the solenoid in place.

I concur with Jim, you should take a look at the EVTM as well as any service manuals you can find. I have found a few in corners of the Internet by Googling, but their provenance is "questionable" so I'm not going to risk sharing them if you know what I mean...

The manuals are invaluable, I have spent a lot of time reading sections to understand how this truck works (or try at least). I'm only half-joking with this movie reference hahaha, like the knight reading his Bible (I assume) for the last 700 years:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Regarding the kicker solenoid, there is a hold down screw between the solenoid and the carb. It is vertically oriented (looking down at the engine, the head of the screw is staring up at you). You need to loosen that. Then, you can turn the screw with a wrench on the spring loaded portion of solenoid itself to adjust the idle up/down. Then, you would cinch down the hold down screw again to hold it the solenoid in place.

I concur with Jim, you should take a look at the EVTM as well as any service manuals you can find. I have found a few in corners of the Internet by Googling, but their provenance is "questionable" so I'm not going to risk sharing them if you know what I mean...

The manuals are invaluable, I have spent a lot of time reading sections to understand how this truck works (or try at least). I'm only half-joking with this movie reference hahaha, like the knight reading his Bible (I assume) for the last 700 years:

1984 EVTM:

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-bronco-f150-350-electrical-vacuum-troubleshooting-manual.html

There's also the Emissions Diagnosis & Engine Electronics supplement to the 1984 FSM.

Seems like what you need....

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-truck-engine-electronics-emissions-diagnosis-manual.html

I can't vouch for this because I've never had to deal with EEC in a 100% compliance state like California, but Ralph has plenty of dealer experience so I'm sure he could tell you how worthwhile it could be.

 

[Gary Lewis]

1984 EVTM:

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-bronco-f150-350-electrical-vacuum-troubleshooting-manual.html

There's also the Emissions Diagnosis & Engine Electronics supplement to the 1984 FSM.

Seems like what you need....

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1984-ford-truck-engine-electronics-emissions-diagnosis-manual.html

I can't vouch for this because I've never had to deal with EEC in a 100% compliance state like California, but Ralph has plenty of dealer experience so I'm sure he could tell you how worthwhile it could be.

If you want to see what's in an Engine & Emission Diagnosis manual we have the 1986 version here on the site.

[NorCal-Ed]

Regarding the kicker solenoid, there is a hold down screw between the solenoid and the carb. It is vertically oriented (looking down at the engine, the head of the screw is staring up at you). You need to loosen that. Then, you can turn the screw with a wrench on the spring loaded portion of solenoid itself to adjust the idle up/down. Then, you would cinch down the hold down screw again to hold it the solenoid in place.

I concur with Jim, you should take a look at the EVTM as well as any service manuals you can find. I have found a few in corners of the Internet by Googling, but their provenance is "questionable" so I'm not going to risk sharing them if you know what I mean...

The manuals are invaluable, I have spent a lot of time reading sections to understand how this truck works (or try at least). I'm only half-joking with this movie reference hahaha, like the knight reading his Bible (I assume) for the last 700 years:

If the assertion by Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, set in 1938, that the Ford MCU Controlled Feedback Carburetor Knight and his brothers began guarding the “Ford service manual” 700 years prior, around 1238, is accurate, then the siblings can't be Ford 2150 service tech’s of the First Crusade per Walter Donovan's "bedtime story" earlier in the film.

I took some humorous artistic liberties.

I am feeling your point!!!!

Your joke might be the reality.

Ed :)