BigBrother-84 Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 If the gear doesn't look bad then I'd lube the speedo cable. Yours is loooooong and can easily wrap & unwrap in that length if dry, and that'll cause all sorts of twitchyness on the speedo. I had fits with this on Big Blue, and what I finally did that solved the problem was to run Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease in the cable. That tamed, but didn't completely eliminate, the twitchyness. I think we may have had this "conversation" before, and if so please forgive my forgetfulness. You’re right, the driven gear doesn’t look so worn… After I recently changed the cable, the needle continued to jump, as usual. With the same usual “tic-tic-tic" noise coming from the speedometer. A little bit later, I changed the speedometer for a “speedo+tripo" model, hoping that will solve the two issues. Nothing changed, same jumping needle with the tic noise. That’s why I am now looking on the side of the gears… Since the driven one doesn’t appears so worn, I am afraid about the drive gear. No way to inspect it without opening the transfer case end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 You’re right, the driven gear doesn’t look so worn… After I recently changed the cable, the needle continued to jump, as usual. With the same usual “tic-tic-tic" noise coming from the speedometer. A little bit later, I changed the speedometer for a “speedo+tripo" model, hoping that will solve the two issues. Nothing changed, same jumping needle with the tic noise. That’s why I am now looking on the side of the gears… Since the driven one doesn’t appears so worn, I am afraid about the drive gear. No way to inspect it without opening the transfer case end? I sprayed a little lube into the back of the speedometer and that helped the twitching and stopped the ticking if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 If the gear doesn't look bad then I'd lube the speedo cable. Yours is loooooong and can easily wrap & unwrap in that length if dry, and that'll cause all sorts of twitchyness on the speedo. I had fits with this on Big Blue, and what I finally did that solved the problem was to run Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease in the cable. That tamed, but didn't completely eliminate, the twitchyness. I think we may have had this "conversation" before, and if so please forgive my forgetfulness. Ok, let’s suppose I’ll have to replace the drive gear, just for fun. Question 1: Is this as easy as ? Look much easier than when the cable is attached to the transmission. Question 2: How to identify the right replacement drive gear? I suppose the drive gear located in a transmission is different than the one located in a 4x4 transfer case? Question 3: How to identify my TC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Ok, let’s suppose I’ll have to replace the drive gear, just for fun. Question 1: Is this as easy as ? Look much easier than when the cable is attached to the transmission. Question 2: How to identify the right replacement drive gear? I suppose the drive gear located in a transmission is different than the one located in a 4x4 transfer case? Question 3: How to identify my TC? Yes, it was as easy as that for me. But make 100% sure you get that nut tight enough as it is what sandwiches the drive gear between two parts and if the nut isn't tight the gear will slip. DAHIK. You can pull the driven gear out and look at the drive gear through the hole. That should tell you what you have, color wise. But counting the teeth is an art. As for the t-case, it looks like Big Blue's twin so you have a BW1345. Look closely in the wedge-shaped recess next to the rear output opening and you'll find it says Borg Warner 13-45. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 Yes, it was as easy as that for me. But make 100% sure you get that nut tight enough as it is what sandwiches the drive gear between two parts and if the nut isn't tight the gear will slip. DAHIK. You can pull the driven gear out and look at the drive gear through the hole. That should tell you what you have, color wise. But counting the teeth is an art. As for the t-case, it looks like Big Blue's twin so you have a BW1345. Look closely in the wedge-shaped recess next to the rear output opening and you'll find it says Borg Warner 13-45. Ok, confirmed: Drive gear needs to be replaced, kaput. BTW, you're right Gary, my TC is a BW1345. I need advices: 1- What color is the gear? What part number to buy? 2- What other parts to order? What will I need? Seals, rings, oil, etc. 3- Is there a step by step «how to for noobies» somewhere? Draining oil, unscrew this, support that, etc. 😉 Willing to go ahead, but don't want to stupidly break anything. And since I'm presently not close from any store, I want to be well prepared. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Ok, confirmed: Drive gear needs to be replaced, kaput. BTW, you're right Gary, my TC is a BW1345. I need advices: 1- What color is the gear? What part number to buy? 2- What other parts to order? What will I need? Seals, rings, oil, etc. 3- Is there a step by step «how to for noobies» somewhere? Draining oil, unscrew this, support that, etc. 😉 Willing to go ahead, but don't want to stupidly break anything. And since I'm presently not close from any store, I want to be well prepared. I think the color is green. Looks to be the same as mine. I don't think we have a step-by-step, but I did record how I did it to some extent in this post. That shows pics of the gear as well as a tool I made to hold the yoke in order to torque the nut back on. And you can find the torque at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and the BW1345 tab and then either the Ford's Repair Procedures or Borg-Warner Service Manual tab. And this chart seems to say the gear has 6 teeth, which is what I count on mine although some have said I can't count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 I think the color is green. Looks to be the same as mine. I don't think we have a step-by-step, but I did record how I did it to some extent in this post. That shows pics of the gear as well as a tool I made to hold the yoke in order to torque the nut back on. And you can find the torque at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and the BW1345 tab and then either the Ford's Repair Procedures or Borg-Warner Service Manual tab. And this chart seems to say the gear has 6 teeth, which is what I count on mine although some have said I can't count. On my monitor it looks blue. Monitors do not show colors as an exact. Hue variations can happen etc... So take what I say with a grain of salt. I'd count the teeth and/or see if you can't get a engineering number off of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 25, 2023 Author Share Posted July 25, 2023 On my monitor it looks blue. Monitors do not show colors as an exact. Hue variations can happen etc... So take what I say with a grain of salt. I'd count the teeth and/or see if you can't get a engineering number off of it. Driven gear question: As you can see in my picts, the original cable Driven Gear has a long shaft. Everywhere I look, the driven gears for automatic transmission have a long shaft. Those for manual transmission have a short shaft... Is this explained by the fact that Big Bro is 4x4 and its driven gear is installed in the transfer case? Should we understand that driven gears for AT or TC have a long shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 25, 2023 Share Posted July 25, 2023 Driven gear question: As you can see in my picts, the original cable Driven Gear has a long shaft. Everywhere I look, the driven gears for automatic transmission have a long shaft. Those for manual transmission have a short shaft... Is this explained by the fact that Big Bro is 4x4 and its driven gear is installed in the transfer case? Should we understand that driven gears for AT or TC have a long shaft? On our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears & Cables you can see the illustration shown below, which is from the Driven Gear tab. As you can see, you are looking at the Type 2 and Type 2a. And then if you scroll down on that page you'll see that the transmission is shown on the left. The Type 2 appears to use PN C7, C8, or C9xx, which the Type 2a uses C0, C1, C2, C3, or C4xx. And, sure enough, the Type 2 seem to be used for automatic transmissions and 2a for manual transmissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 27, 2023 Author Share Posted July 27, 2023 On our page at Documentation/Driveline/Speedometer Gears & Cables you can see the illustration shown below, which is from the Driven Gear tab. As you can see, you are looking at the Type 2 and Type 2a. And then if you scroll down on that page you'll see that the transmission is shown on the left. The Type 2 appears to use PN C7, C8, or C9xx, which the Type 2a uses C0, C1, C2, C3, or C4xx. And, sure enough, the Type 2 seem to be used for automatic transmissions and 2a for manual transmissions. Well, well, well… I just picked up the replacement TC (BW 13-45) rear shaft seal at the nearest NAPA. Really not sure they sold me the good part. This is the new I got: And here are some pictures grabbed on : They are absolutely not looking the same. Can someone tell me if I have the correct replacement part on hand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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