Rusty_S85 Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 Guys, went to NAPA for something else, and they had a 3 port PVS in stock... I bought it. And I'm waiting for my local print shop to print the replacement decal I reproduced: Here's Big Brother's original (was able to save it from original rad support, but cannot stick anymore to the new support): The fonts aren't exactly the same, but pretty close. Id be interested in knowing how well the print shop did and how well the decal lasts long term. I have for the most part finished making mine but havent been able to decide how to have it printed since it has to live under the hood exposed to engine bay heat and chemicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 20, 2023 Share Posted July 20, 2023 Id be interested in knowing how well the print shop did and how well the decal lasts long term. I have for the most part finished making mine but havent been able to decide how to have it printed since it has to live under the hood exposed to engine bay heat and chemicals. I would be interested as well. I have various engine decals that need replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 I would be interested as well. I have various engine decals that need replaced. I should receive the decal next week. Supposed to be their best quality, no bubbles, etc. Will keep you in touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Bill, do you have a 3 port PVS? And am I ok to presume it will screw there? Gentlemen, what advice for PVS installation, any scellant, threads lock, or others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Gentlemen, what advice for PVS installation, any scellant, threads lock, or others? I would use a light wrap of plumbers thread sealant tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 I would use a light wrap of plumbers thread sealant tape. That makes sense. Since this is not a fuel pipe, no reason a plumbing tape couldn’t do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 27, 2023 Share Posted July 27, 2023 Guys, went to NAPA for something else, and they had a 3 port PVS in stock... I bought it. And I'm waiting for my local print shop to print the replacement decal I reproduced: Here's Big Brother's original (was able to save it from original rad support, but cannot stick anymore to the new support): The fonts aren't exactly the same, but pretty close. Just as well, I apparently either packed them in a container in Newport News VA or didn't save the ones I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 27, 2023 Author Share Posted July 27, 2023 Just as well, I apparently either packed them in a container in Newport News VA or didn't save the ones I had. No problemo, Bill, I got one, was stock at my local NAPA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted July 29, 2023 Author Share Posted July 29, 2023 I'm with Bill - What you have is working, but if you want to change add the PVS. Ok, here is the situation about rebuilding the PVS vacuum circuit: 1- Big Brother’s situation before my modification: I thought that the distributor was connected to the carburetor: With this Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA between the two: Well, it looked being connected… if there wasn’t a steel ball blocking the tube! Ok, so let’s start again: Big Brother’s distributor WASN’T vacuum connected, period. 2- Rebuilding the vacuum circuit: I installed a new PVS 3 port valve, and connected the “D” port to the distributor: Now, I have to plug the port 1 and 2 to something. Remember, I am rebuilding only the distributor vacuum circuit, not the "solenoid/throttle" one: 3- Questions: A) Plug the tube with Vacuum Restrictor on port 1 or port 2? B) Can I use the «Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA» as the "V REST" shown on the diagram? C) What’s the goal of such restrictor, since there is a parallel vacuum tube without restriction? Do I have to NOT install this not restricted tube? EDIT: Here is my proposal. But still doesn’t understand the goal of an unrestricted parallel tube… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 29, 2023 Share Posted July 29, 2023 I'm with Bill - What you have is working, but if you want to change add the PVS. Ok, here is the situation about rebuilding the PVS vacuum circuit: 1- Big Brother’s situation before my modification: I thought that the distributor was connected to the carburetor: With this Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA between the two: Well, it looked being connected… if there wasn’t a steel ball blocking the tube! Ok, so let’s start again: Big Brother’s distributor WASN’T vacuum connected, period. 2- Rebuilding the vacuum circuit: I installed a new PVS 3 port valve, and connected the “D” port to the distributor: Now, I have to plug the port 1 and 2 to something. Remember, I am rebuilding only the distributor vacuum circuit, not the "solenoid/throttle" one: 3- Questions: A) Plug the tube with Vacuum Restrictor on port 1 or port 2? B) Can I use the «Ford Vacuum Delay Valve #E3AE-DA» as the "V REST" shown on the diagram? C) What’s the goal of such restrictor, since there is a parallel vacuum tube without restriction? Do I have to NOT install this not restricted tube? EDIT: Here is my proposal. But still doesn’t understand the goal of an unrestricted parallel tube… Hi. Jeff We have similar vacuum advance setups. (A) the vacuum restriction goes to port 1 As shown it is farthest from the threaded end of the thermo-valve. (B) The delay valve is not a V-REST. I can try to get you a picture of mine if it would help. Edit: photo of yellow switch valve and blue V-REST The restriction limits the amount of vacuum reaching the advance diaphragm. © The point of having an unobstructed path is so that vacuum can be used to control idle speed. The valve in the thermostat neck will shift to straight manifold vacuum in the event the engine starts to overheat. This pulls the idle speed up a few hundred rpm (which turns the fan and water pump faster) This means if the truck were stuck idling in traffic it would make an attempt to cool itself off without much affecting performance off idle. This is essentially "vacuum logic" that was common before computers and electronics in vehicles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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